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Replaced TPS - Idle now WORSE!

peuglow said:
Thanks Mike good tips!! I'm just getting to the point where the learning curve is killing me. I really just need to get this running again. Faulty tests due to my own mistakes will only prolong this process

I absolutely want to learn this stuff, I just need to get this repair done ASAP it's been 8 weeks with no dd!
Click to expand...


LOL, not to worry Mate, 8 weeks for a jeep is nothing, LMAO!!!! That is why I have 5 of them, so I am not renting a car all year for a DD, LOL.
 
peuglow said:
Thanks Mike good tips!! I'm just getting to the point where the learning curve is killing me. I really just need to get this running again. Faulty tests due to my own mistakes will only prolong this process I absolutely want to learn this stuff, I just need to get this repair done ASAP it's been 8 weeks with no dd!
Click to expand...

No offense, but if that's what you want, get a Honda.
You're driving a 16 year old car with 250k miles.
To expect this to be a reliable daily driver is unrealistic.
If it weren't, you think people would be dropping $30k on new cars? No, they're drive 1996 cars with 250k all day long for free.
A 1996 with 250k is an ongoing project, not a DD.
Are there exceptions? Yes, but they are generally owned by expert gearheads whose main love in life is wrenching.

If you're in a rush, for $40, just replace the O2 and ask questions later.
(assuming you're comfortable with this level of repair. They are known to be frozen on, and require torching)
 
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Didn't ask for your opinion. I'm well aware of what jeep repair/maintenance standards are. If I could afford to buy a newer car I'd probably pick one up. I've had the vehicle six years and these are the first major repairs I'm undertaking myself. Please don't pretend to know what circumstances surround my situation. That's rather pretentious and unnecessary.
 
So you aren't gonna believe this. Scanner said it was a CPS problem! And just to be sure I cleared the code and let her run again where she stalled idling and wa hat to restart (both symptoms that haven't happened before and clearly indicAte a cps) buying and installing a new one tomorrow!
 
bimmerjeeper said:
Can you be more specific? You replaced the screws that hold the ECU to the fender well? How did you know what screws to get? Just shorter ones? How much shorter? Why would mounting screws cause such a problem? Were they shorting something out?

.
Click to expand...

Is this what they were talking about? These 2 must not touch the frame?
2dskd92.jpg
 
Hahaha I know mike. From everything I read, the symptoms shown weren't related to a bad CPS. The next tool I'm buying is a $20 scanner on Amazon. Should help me diagnose things much quicker next time!!
 
bimmerjeeper said:
Can you be more specific? You replaced the screws that hold the ECU to the fender well? How did you know what screws to get? Just shorter ones? How much shorter? Why would mounting screws cause such a problem? Were they shorting something out?

Are you looking to sell one of the other 4 coils that are probably good? I have 125k and might as well replace my coil at some point, unless it's NOT a 100k type of maintenance item.
Click to expand...

The other coils are fried. No good.
 
peuglow said:
Hahaha I know mike. From everything I read, the symptoms shown weren't related to a bad CPS. The next tool I'm buying is a $20 scanner on Amazon. Should help me diagnose things much quicker next time!!
Click to expand...

At the time, I must have seen something others missed in prior posts that told me the next step was to replace the CPS.

It was this post:

"Took the XJ for a cruise, and the bog down was the worst it has been. Sputtered the whole way, even stalled coming back up my driveway. With even throttle pressure the engine almost cuts out and surges back. " and the fact that you had covered the other possible causes already in other posts!!!! It said the CPS was the next "Usual Suspect".
 
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i have a 1989 xj and when i replaced my TPS i had to tune it via voltage readings did you do this or is it a plug n play part on newer jeeps?
 
kevinO said:
i have a 1989 xj and when i replaced my TPS i had to tune it via voltage readings did you do this or is it a plug n play part on newer jeeps?
Click to expand...

The Renix era jeep, 87-90 years only, have the adjustable TPS that must be calibrated. 91-01 years are not adjustable, and can not be calibrated. The OP here has a 1996.
 
Old Cps is off! But it took longer than expected, and between the cold and the PITA it is to get the new one on, I'll likely finish this project tomorrow/Friday.
 
bimmerjeeper said:
No offense, but if that's what you want, get a Honda.
You're driving a 16 year old car with 250k miles.
To expect this to be a reliable daily driver is unrealistic.
If it weren't, you think people would be dropping $30k on new cars? No, they're drive 1996 cars with 250k all day long for free.
A 1996 with 250k is an ongoing project, not a DD.
Are there exceptions? Yes, but they are generally owned by expert gearheads whose main love in life is wrenching.

If you're in a rush, for $40, just replace the O2 and ask questions later.
(assuming you're comfortable with this level of repair. They are known to be frozen on, and require torching)
Click to expand...

Suddenly you're an expert? Laughable.
 
New CPS seemed to fix the issue. Idled at 750 RPM and took her for a quick spin. No issues bogging down or sputtering. About half way through I reset the engine codes. I did get a GEN light a mile afterward, any idea what that's all about? I had the alt replaced a year ago. 12 v read at the battery too.
 
Did it stay on, or just come on and then clear up? Could be a loose wire or ground. Also, you were digging around in the area of the body harness connector when you did the CPS. Check that to make sure it didn't come loose.
 
It stayed on. The batt meter is low too. I'll check the harness connector. Any idea what I should be looking for?
 
Check the wiring from the alternator to the relay block. Also, I think (but am not sure) that there's a fusible link in there somewhere. You can have the alternator tested in-vehicle at most local parts stores. But I'd be tracing wiring first, starting at the alternator and working back.
 
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