• Welcome to the new NAXJA Forum! If your password does not work, please use "Forgot your password?" link on the log-in page. Please feel free to reach out to [email protected] if we can provide any assistance.

Removing rear shocks from upper mounts hints?

clean96XJ

NAXJA Forum User
Location
CT
Middle of minor "improvements" (speed holes in the floor don't work)

Rear upper mounts for shocks.

How do you fit a wrench on the nut you cant see in a spot that a can barely fit your hand. (1"x5"x5")?


last resort. grind it off.

Thanks
 
If the weld nuts have broken loose and are spinning, you need to employ destructive disassembly.

I don't want any extra holes in the floor, so I always just snap the shock bolts off and drive out the weld nuts with an air chisel. I have always snaked in a bolt on a bit of flexy wire and put a nut on the bottom side.

Rough Country makes a slip in captured nut/flag nut assembly that I will be using next time.
 
Last edited:
thanks!

Seems last time shocks were replaced, they broke one nut off and replaced it (nut is on the bottom).

Didnt realize they were welded in.
Makes things much easier.

FYI.. add heat to all the bolts that are held weld nuts.
 
I cut a square out around each bolt from the floor above. Only cut 3 sides of the square and bent it back.. put a new bolt in and welded it down. Then make sure to use anti-seize when you put the nuts on. I believe they are only torqued to 17 ft-lbs on the top.
 
If the weld nuts have broken loose and are spinning, you need to employ destructive disassembly.

I don't want any extra holes in the floor, so I always just snap the shock bolts off and drive out the weld nuts with an air chisel. I have always snaked in a bolt on a bit of flexy wire and put a nut on the bottom side.

Rough Country makes a slip in captured nut/flag nut assembly that I will be using next time.

Basically, this. I couldn't get the weld nuts to pop off. So, I drilled through and installed bolts down through. I did use a bar pin eliminator though. First I went with a JKS copy. Sort of an Uber bar pin. I decided to use the IRO 'U' bracket type. That way I do not have to unbolt the thing, if changing shocks. I only have the one through bolt to do, to remove the shock.
 
If the weld nuts have broken loose and are spinning, you need to employ destructive disassembly.

I don't want any extra holes in the floor, so I always just snap the shock bolts off and drive out the weld nuts with an air chisel. I have always snaked in a bolt on a bit of flexy wire and put a nut on the bottom side.

Rough Country makes a slip in captured nut/flag nut assembly that I will be using next time.

There's a no name knockoff of those flag nuts on Amazon for dirt cheap. I'm running them now and they worked great.
 
Turns out both spinners were from fix from last group.

Didnt understand why a old rusted wire was sticking out of each side.
Thats how they snaked the bolt in. (they even used a washer.)
(im reusing the good one.)


Snaked a cutoff wheel through mess and cut the nut/bolt in half.

The other two bolts can out super easy.
PB soak for a few days, add heat and some 1/2" breaker bar love.


Thanks All

After finishing rear suspension/brake fixes, doing FLOORS !
ya ! cut,clean,cut,clean and then welding!

Fuel lines..

then A/C
then.. then.. then..
 
Back
Top