Removing and Replacing front Crossmember

[csudman]

I'm gettin ready to build my new front bumper. Wonderin if anyone has replaced the thin crossmember infront of the engine. I'm gonna build steering box plates into whatever I do. I'm thinkin 1x4 1/8" wall tubing. Haven't measuered it yet. I figure that will greatly stiffen the front end of the vehicle.

Also, I removed the vacume canister and pluged it. Any issues w/ it not being there. I searched and never read of anyone having any ill effects.

Also, The spacers between the steering box and frame rails. Thinkness? What to replace it with. Can I just get some plate drill out holes and be done w/ it?


Bush 2004

 

[JeepFreak21]

I'm gettin ready to build my new front bumper. Wonderin if anyone has replaced the thin crossmember infront of the engine. I'm gonna build steering box plates into whatever I do. I'm thinkin 1x4 1/8" wall tubing. Haven't measuered it yet. I figure that will greatly stiffen the front end of the vehicle.

Also, I removed the vacume canister and pluged it. Any issues w/ it not being there. I searched and never read of anyone having any ill effects.

Also, The spacers between the steering box and frame rails. Thinkness? What to replace it with. Can I just get some plate drill out holes and be done w/ it?


Bush 2004

That vacuum canister is there to open your vents for your a/c and heat.

 

[csudman]

They still work.

 

[JeepFreak21]

They still work.

Kewl :cheers:

 

[JeepSpeedRacer]

Also, The spacers between the steering box and frame rails. Thinkness? What to replace it with. Can I just get some plate drill out holes and be done w/ it?
Bush 2004

The C-Rok kit will address that area...

 

[csudman]

I agree and thats a great kit for those who cant build it themselves. Im interested in the small spacers. Ive never had my box off before so im not sure of their size or purpose. I'm gonna try and do this in a weekend as this is my DD. So I'd like to have all the materials there when I begin. Also, I'm not gonna tie this into my sway bar mounts. I think its probably to much trouble to bend the material for the marginal strenght increase. Is there any other reason to do this?

 

[norton]

While you are in there...

Cut out the old crossmember, and box the pseudo frame rails. Put three sleeved holes for 3/4" bolts on each side and put a winch with the remote solenoids in there. A decent sized (9000 lb) WARN winch will fit in there between the steering box and the other side. The winch mount would become the front crossmember.

You won't have the winch blocking airflow to the radiator, and you won't have an approach-angle eating front bumper.

Best of all worlds.

- Eliot -

 

[csudman]

Any thoughts on my material choice?

What about the spacers?

 

[karstic]

While you are in there...

Cut out the old crossmember, and box the pseudo frame rails. Put three sleeved holes for 3/4" bolts on each side and put a winch with the remote solenoids in there. A decent sized (9000 lb) WARN winch will fit in there between the steering box and the other side. The winch mount would become the front crossmember.

You won't have the winch blocking airflow to the radiator, and you won't have an approach-angle eating front bumper.

Best of all worlds.

- Eliot -

Got a picture of that!

 

[xtremewlr]

Figured this is a good time for my first post since Ive been researching the hell outta this

Check this link: http://www.rigidco.com/bumper_mounting_system.htm

They make a nice plate that you actually bolt to the existing xmember in front to strengthen things up up there. They also have a version that incorporates a winch mounting plate. would be too difficult to fab something like that up yourself if you have access to a plasma cutter.

 

[RobertF]

The vacuum bottle is there to supply vacuum during periods of low vacuum. Without it there will be certain positions of defrost/heat/vent/AC that under constant accelleration (close to zero vacuum) you will hear/feel air doors change position back and forth as you accellerate then cruise (high vacuum). If you have an older Disco axle you will loose the shift on the fly without grinding the gears as there isn't the vacuum reserve to instantly engage the axle, getting the front driveshaft up to the speed of the transfercase.

 

[norton]

The vacuum bottle is there to supply vacuum during periods of low vacuum. Without it there will be certain positions of defrost/heat/vent/AC that under constant accelleration (close to zero vacuum) you will hear/feel air doors change position back and forth as you accellerate then cruise (high vacuum). If you have an older Disco axle you will loose the shift on the fly without grinding the gears as there isn't the vacuum reserve to instantly engage the axle, getting the front driveshaft up to the speed of the transfercase.

As far as I understand, that vacuum bottle is only for the cruise control system, but I could be wrong.

- Eliot -

 

[35xj]

as far as that bumper goes... I build one. check it out on our website. wnccustomjeeps.com the new pics of the 2nd generation will be up soon. If anybody wants to see it, I can send pics. it works really well. good luck. dave 5K fab

 

[JeepFreak21]

Figured this is a good time for my first post since Ive been researching the hell outta this

Check this link: http://www.rigidco.com/bumper_mounting_system.htm

They make a nice plate that you actually bolt to the existing xmember in front to strengthen things up up there. They also have a version that incorporates a winch mounting plate. would be too difficult to fab something like that up yourself if you have access to a plasma cutter.

Great link! When I redo my front bumper that's the way I'm gonna go. I'm all for building my own stuff, but that crossmember looks like a major PITA.
Billy

 

[csudman]

Great link! When I redo my front bumper that's the way I'm gonna go. I'm all for building my own stuff, but that crossmember looks like a major PITA.
Billy

Im not so sure it'll be that hard. The only thing It does other than support the front end is hold up the radiator. I'm acually thinkin Im gonna make it out of angle Iron. That should be plenty strong and easy to make. The most difficult thing will be welding to the sheet metal. Well just have to see.

 

[JeepFreak21]

Im not so sure it'll be that hard. The only thing It does other than support the front end is hold up the radiator. I'm acually thinkin Im gonna make it out of angle Iron. That should be plenty strong and easy to make. The most difficult thing will be welding to the sheet metal. Well just have to see.

I'll rephrase... their's looks like it would be a PITA to make!
Billy

 

[chassellbandit]

i hit a deer in august and fubared my crossmember all to hell. i cut it out and replaced it witha piece of 5" 3/16" c-channel. tacked a couple of spacers on, and a piece of 1/8" across the top witha couple of holes and the radiator fits perfect. on the sides, my buddy just bent a couple of pieces of 1/8" plate and welded those to the cross memer and the frame rails. i do believe it stiffins up the front end quite a bit, definately worth doing. good luck.

 

[andyr354]

I bought my 89 wrecked. The front xmember was toast. I just built a tough bumper and used a piece of angle iron with some holes to support the radiator. Has been working fine for over a year now.

 

[karstic]

As far as I understand, that vacuum bottle is only for the cruise control system, but I could be wrong.

- Eliot -

Nope needed for heater controls. My 92 has a vacuum canister and no cruise control.

 

[csudman]

Nope needed for heater controls. My 92 has a vacuum canister and no cruise control.

I've got air and cruise and even a CD player. EVERTHING STILL WORKS FINE. I even tried to make the stuff not work. Anit happenin. I think jeep put it there for the disco axles(I dont have one) and forgot to take it off for everything else.