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Remove body cross piece to remove 4.0 engine?

Yep... been there. I took a bath in coolant, ATF, and motor oil the weekend before last while doing my swap. Fortunately it was pouring rain so I got hosed off pretty well before I even went inside.
 
Glad to see there's a recent thread on this, hope I'm not hijacking too much. I just pulled a motor at the junkyard today to be rebuilt, and for the love of god cannot figure out how to remove the torque converter from the engine. I got the trans out seperate, and then pulled the engine.

I thought the TC was splined and would have just come right out when I removed the 4 belhousing bolts. After loosening it, moving it back about an inch, and then spending about 2 hours shifting, cussing, prying, cussing, and pulling, I realized there was no way it would just slide off with the trans.

The motor is now sitting outside the vehicle, TC still attached. Where do I go from here?
 
Glad to see there's a recent thread on this, hope I'm not hijacking too much. I just pulled a motor at the junkyard today to be rebuilt, and for the love of god cannot figure out how to remove the torque converter from the engine. I got the trans out seperate, and then pulled the engine.

I thought the TC was splined and would have just come right out when I removed the 4 belhousing bolts. After loosening it, moving it back about an inch, and then spending about 2 hours shifting, cussing, prying, cussing, and pulling, I realized there was no way it would just slide off with the trans.

The motor is now sitting outside the vehicle, TC still attached. Where do I go from here?



You either need to get an air wrench to pull the four bolts off the torque converter, or you need to jam the flywheel/flexplate so you can get it off
 
Yep. The flywheel cant come off the crank unless you remove the tq conv. and to rebuild it I really think you would want that off.

Its just 4 bolts, and for the engine to be installed correctly, you have to put the TC in the tranny and then bolt the tc to the engine.
 
Disconnect wiring harness from engine (the one that goes down the valve cover fr the injectors) REMEMBEER TO MARK INJECTOR PLUGS BY NUMBER!!!

Disconnect fuel line from rail using 3/8 quickdisconnect tool
no need to mark the injector wires, they basicly are bent into place, and if you pull the injectors from the intake then no need to disconect fuel rail
 
You either need to get an air wrench to pull the four bolts off the torque converter, or you need to jam the flywheel/flexplate so you can get it off
3/4" socket and breaker bar on the harmonic balencer bolt will keep it all from turning
 
I guess all the heat, busted knuckles, and dust from today got to me...

I just realized what I actually need to do to remove it, and I'm an idiot for not figuring it out in 30 seconds from looking at the engine. Thanks for the help guys.
 
Well out it came, swapped with a rebuilt Jasper, and the Jasper went back in. No real issues. No broken fastners. Took out the engine only, left the tranny in place. Took it out with manifold and motor mount arms still attached. Left the alternator bracket but took the alternator off while engine in the vehicle. Put it back in the same configuration.

Running good!

Here is a trick for working on the engine. Leave the hood on 'till last. Just buy an inexpensive 48" shop light. Bend a couple coat hangers for small hooks and connect these to each end of the shop light. Hook the hangers over the control wire that stretches from the hood latches on each side of hood. Hood will hold the shop light right above middle of motor. It is really nice to have a lot of shadow-less light!!
 
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