Color doesn't mean much any more, you need to read the bottle and decide what you want to go with. You're basically dealing with 3 "chemistries" when it comes to coolant. None are compatible and I'd be wary of coolant that claims to be compatible with all types when you see what mixing coolant types does to a system.
As long as the system has been fully flushed or is using all new components then you can fill with whatever you want, just stick with it over the long run, or you risk turning your system into a jelly filled mess if you start mixing.
The old "Green" stuff is Ethelye Glycol. Also known as IAT or Inorganic Acid Technology. Typically 2 year 24k mile life.
Organic Acid Technology (OAT). This is what the well known Dexcool is.
Then HOAT. Hybrid Organic Acid Technology.
Jeep actually ran into this issue when they switched the JK from OAT to HOAT in the middle/end of the 2013 model year. The coolant types weren't compatible and some JK owners wound up turning their cooling systems to jelly later on. If you had a late 2013 model or a very early 2014 model there was a chance you could have gotten either of the coolants on the assembly line. Someone figured out the VIN cutoff for it but that's not relevant here.
I've read a few articles that suggests that different technologies can be better or worse in the long them in regards to aluminum or iron parts but I'd have to dig those up. It basically came down to the Ph levels of different kinds of coolant and differing PH levels being better for Aluminum and Iron. In your case using an Aluminum head on an Iron block I'm unsure which would be "best". I believe that HOAT coolants are the typical "go to" for most manufactures today with different regions (North America, Europe, and Asia) using slightly different formulations. The world of engine coolants has gotten insanely complex due to this.
Anywho all that typing to say, If the system is new or thoroughly flushed run what you want.
Here's a totally not confusing color chart and even this info is generalized