rear main seal

[5-90]

Ok I know what a drift is. Just never heard it called that...
I am about to have to change my RMS too. I however have a V6 2.8 motor in my 1985 XJ. Is this one as simple as you just described? I would put stop leak in it before I pulled the 160,000+ mile motor out of it. It needs changing but I have limited time, tools, and knowledge. I have pulled a motor and replaced bearings and a RMS in a 2.0 4 banger before so I have "some" working knowledge of a wrench.

Ugh. The 2.8L had two styles of seal - a two-piece "rope" seal (like SBChevvy) and a one-piece "ring" seal (like on an axle or the front main.) The "ring" seal requires that you are able to remove the transmission to remove the seal (it's held in with a metal retainer and four to six screws as well.) I haven't worked on a 60-degree V6 in a while, so memory is faulty. However, you can check out www.60degreev6.com for more information - that seems to be the central clearinghouse.

I do suggest you start looking for a RWD 3.1 or 3.4 donor (S-10/S-15 or F-body) to replace that aenemic little V6. Best upgrade I've found for them was about 400 pounds of ready-mix and two hundred feet of chain - then you can give it to your buddy with a boat. The 3.1 and 3.4L engines are vastly superior.

Don't neglect the FWD vehicles when looking for donors, tho. Find a FWD with a starter motor mounting pad on the backside of the engine (as mounted,) and you've got a Goodwrench Service Replacement engine - which is cast rather better, and compatible with both FWD and RWD/AWD/4WD as well. You may also find some RWD V6-60 in Astro/Safari vans, I think...

 

[hombremosqa]

i did the rear main in mine. and it was a nightmare. took me 2 weeks on and off to finish. the most important thing to remember is to let the front axle hang down. this will give you the extra clearance you need to pull the pan out.

and like every one is saying. take your time to pull ALL the pan gasket.

if need be, use a rubber mallet to knock off the pan. most likely its stuck

 

[xalexjx]

From the time i pulled it on to the lift in my shop till the time i got it off was just under 3 hours. but iv also done it a few times.. expect 5 hours or so your first time,, biggest pain is getting out the upper seal, but its not terrible, just dont nik the crank or youll have problems :thumbup:

 

[ocean_jet]

take your time

Good advice... but I really hopes he's done by now.

It shouldn't take a year.

 

[Dobbs]

I posted this before part number from FEL-PRO here is the part # CS8169-3 conversion set from Fel-Pro it says includes
1-424 "O" ring filter adapter
1-4642 "O" ring oil filter adapter
1-93694 oil filter adapter "O" ring
1-95216 oil cooler mounting "O" ring
1-95625 rear main bearing assembly ( rear main seal)
1-90926 timing cover seal
1-13876 oil pump to bearing cap
1-13877 waterpump mounting
1- BM30663 oil pan gasket (this is the one pc gasket blue rubber
there are some other things in there like dist gaskets and others it was like 27.00 dollars for the set

 

[CRJeepin]

Hey why the timing cover seal? Is that required to do the RMS or just the front?

I think mine is leakin'....have already replaced the oil filter gaskets and since I just started running synthetic in the ol' girl I assume it's the RMS (not bad yet, knock on wood - just a little drip off the flex plate cover when it's parked).

 

[Dobbs]

The gasket set is for the whole bottem end .rear main seal pan gasket front timming gaskets and front seal plus water pump and dist gasket. and the oil filter adaptor. For the $29.00 its the cheap way to go because you get all the gaskets for the bottom end .What you dont use can always set back never know when you may need the front timming cover or water pump gaskets.

 

[CRJeepin]

Got it, thanks. I saw that 5-90 listed the front timing cover seal on his writeup too, but he didn't mention anything about the gasket set (it was listed out separate) so I figured maybe ya had to have it to do the RMS.

Thanks again.
CR

 

[xjman96]

I think the RMS is the same all the way up (two-piece rubber over a metal core.)

Don't you have to put a drop of RTV between the upper and lower seal ends just before you reinstall the bearing cup?