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RC Crawlers

wait these things have like real steering and suspension? what about lockers and gears and sliders and crap?
off road lights that work for night wheeling?
this could be real fun ...
 
Here are some teaser videos from the MSD (Montana Scale Designs) Scale event from last year.

http://www.orcrc.com/forum/showthread.php?t=8411

Here's a short video of a MSD 8274 winch pulling a full size XJ. You can't really tell, but I was standing there watching. They had to anchor the RC to another full size truck!

http://www.thehobbygarageonline.com...-scale-rc-winch-pulling-a-full-sized-jeep-xj/

The club I used to be in (ORCRC) holds a TTC style event every year.

http://vimeo.com/9829799
 
This thread makes me want to dig my AX10 out of the closet. Bad battery pack, and life just got in the way.

1. Take a gander at RC Crawler. Lots of good information, but theres a lot of webwheelers. :eyes:

2. Get aftermarket driveshafts. I broke the yokes on both once I upgraded the tires.

3. Lower the thing as much as you can. I used some $.30 springs from Ace to lower the ride height. Think moonbuggy and not mall crawler.

4. Bent links are awesome. I just bent my stock ones over the side of a table. Not only got my links out of the way, but pointed my pinion up and out of the rocks. Its not like you need to worry about vibes on the highway! I havent had an issue with them bending back strait, but I think you can buy them prebent should you want them.

5. Weight your wheels and tires. Unsprung weight is good to have, within reason obviously. Stick on wheel weights for 1:1 cars work well, as do BBs. Keep sprung weight to a minimum.

6. Inboard the links. Took 10 minutes with a hacksaw, and made a huge improvement.


Some old pictures of mine. Dirty, abused and a lot of fun.
019.jpg


001.jpg


026.jpg
 
Starboard M said:
2. Get aftermarket driveshafts. I broke the yokes on both once I upgraded the tires.

4. Bent links are awesome. I just bent my stock ones over the side of a table. Not only got my links out of the way, but pointed my pinion up and out of the rocks. Its not like you need to worry about vibes on the highway! I havent had an issue with them bending back strait, but I think you can buy them prebent should you want them.
Click to expand...

Coincidence?
 
im kind of a big rc dork

my ax-10 comp rig. ive got about $2500 into it right now
i try to go to as many comps as i can when work permits
b3a65146.jpg


my slash 4x4
0b03c4d2.jpg

with the body on
f9f3f4db.jpg


and my new 41" brushless genesis catamaran
c082b67b.jpg
 
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Starboard M said:
1. Take a gander at RCCrawler.com Lots of good information, but theres a lot of webwheelers. :eyes:

2. Get aftermarket driveshafts. I broke the yokes on both once I upgraded the tires.

3. Lower the thing as much as you can. I used some $.30 springs from Ace to lower the ride height. Think moonbuggy and not mall crawler.

4. Bent links are awesome. I just bent my stock ones over the side of a table. Not only got my links out of the way, but pointed my pinion up and out of the rocks. Its not like you need to worry about vibes on the highway! I havent had an issue with them bending back strait, but I think you can buy them prebent should you want them.

5. Weight your wheels and tires. Unsprung weight is good to have, within reason obviously. Stick on wheel weights for 1:1 cars work well, as do BBs. Keep sprung weight to a minimum.

6. Inboard the links. Took 10 minutes with a hacksaw, and made a huge improvement.
Click to expand...

1. rccrawler.com is the best site to go to. Some note worthy builders on there are

toyofast
pinchflat
gunnar
bender
just zach
metal masher
51willysjeep
1badjeepbruiser
eddievedder
rbgerrish
kaetwo
badger

2. aftermarket driveshafts are good
MIP shafts are good but the plastic traxxas shafts on the stock metal output yokes are a really strong upgrade too

3. obviously not as low as you can bc you still want GC but most competitive flat bellied stock style chassis guys run between 2-3" clearance
also take note that lots of flex isnt always a good thing. I keep mine to about the height og the tires that im running on the rig. Too much flex
only allows for the wheels to fall into the large holes and get stuck or make it more difficult of a line you are pulling.

4. bent links are definatly good for the GC and because you dont have to worry about gear oil in the rear, Ive been able to run crazy clocking and driveshaft angles. Front needs to be fairly decent for stearing but can be made better by clockable C's which are a good investment.

5. weigh wheels with the 1:1 stick on weights. BBs dont help nearly as much. Look at all the guys who do this professonally and none of them run bbs. also run more weight in the front by at least double. Run very little in the rear.

6. inboard links and button head screws on the outside of the chassis is a good idea.

7. No matter what type of rig you are running one of the best tire foam options is crawler innovations 2 stage foam. If you are running a 2.2 size tire the top choises are

HB white dot rovers
HB sedonas
losi rock claws
losi boss claws
panther cougars
panther lepards

8. dont fall for the crap that is Integy. The only benefit to their stuff is that it looks cool. quality usually sucks and there are much better options for upgrades like VP.

9. Good power plant upgrade is a Tekin 35t motor combo. Good crawling power plus has that little bit of wheel speed when you need it. but no matter what company you go for, stick with a 45t or 35t motor for the speed.

my $.02
 
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here are a few of my rigs










and as my chevy sits now

 
I figured I'd revive this thread rather then start a new thread on RC cars. Anyway...first off any one in the bay area or central valley or even Reno area have any old Tamiya TA/01 or TA/02 chassis parts laying around or complete vehicles? I've got an old Hummer I've had for years that I'm trying to fix up for sh!its and giggles. I just used Loctite epoxy to lock the diffs and I got a set of 1.9 bead locks and crawler tires for it. I also got a Torque Monster motor and some fresh battery packs. It does surprisingly well except it doesn't flex worth a crap and high centers...kind of like a real H1!

Secondly, for those of you who are into RC crawling. Whats a good chassis or best bang for the buck to get? I either want to get a crawler of my own or I was thinking of a bind n drive Losi Mini SCT? I borrowed my buddys Losi Comp Crawler with front and rear diggs and the whole 9 yards and I'm not sure if I want to go crawler or SCT for my next truck. Any thoughts?
 
i got an axiel wraith a few weeks ago. it needs lower gears, but i have not looked into how/if they can be changed. it does run pretty good, although i am very surprised how fast the battery goes down (& it is a 7 cell).
 
here's my lil crawler with the larger one. Axial Honcho Kit, but I purchased the short wheel-base links kit to make it fit the Cherokee body. I also the undercarriage and interior kit that I've yet to install.

Alex E said:
Secondly, for those of you who are into RC crawling. Whats a good chassis or best bang for the buck to get? I either want to get a crawler of my own or I was thinking of a bind n drive Losi Mini SCT? I borrowed my buddys Losi Comp Crawler with front and rear diggs and the whole 9 yards and I'm not sure if I want to go crawler or SCT for my next truck. Any thoughts?
Click to expand...

The Axial Racing SCX10 is a great platform. They have a ready to run kit and various wheelbases. You'd be very impressed with it's performance. There are other japanese kits and they are better in regards to scale but not performance, they also cost a lot more money.

34e5be78.jpg
 
Im really diggn the scale ones like your XJ on the Trail Honcho chassis. How is the trail Honcho for gearing? They look really fast to be a crawler on the youtube vids I've seen.
 
Alex E said:
Im really diggn the scale ones like your XJ on the Trail Honcho chassis. How is the trail Honcho for gearing? They look really fast to be a crawler on the youtube vids I've seen.
Click to expand...

It's a pretty fast rig on flat ground, I'd say it goes maybe...10mph or so, I'm not sure what the actual gearing is.

Now for crawling, I ditched the radio that came with it and used one from one of my hpi units. The reason why was the other one the gas was too twitchy. Now i'm able to slowly crawl up rocks, sofas, my cats tail, without issue and not being jerky. If only my real jeep could do the stuff this does then I'd be 'rocking'.
 
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