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Ran into driveshaft problem help

While I always recommend an SYE, let me first ask what the specs of your jeep are (tranny, rear axle, etc.)

If you have an 8.25, you may be able to use a driveshaft from a similarly built XJ (same tranny, rear axle, etc.). I've never tried it, but it could be a possibility.

All else fails, SYEs are always an improvement, worth the money, and easy to install.
 
You're gonna get what you pay for....

If you want "free" and do the TC drop, you put stress on your motor mounts and risk tipping your fan into your radiator. Stressing your motor mounts includes stress on your exhaust...which leads to your exhaust manifold cracking...

Do lots of searching and reading about a SYE (Slip-Yoke Eliminator) and I highly suggest you do it the right way.

Talk with Jason @ www.jeepinoutfitters.com or Dirk @ www.dpgoffroad.com - both are NAXJA sponsors too, I believe...
 
Did you happen to notice a puddle of fluid under the transfercase when it happened? See, with your year XJ, the transfercase had an internal slip yoke, meaning the case sealed itself on the part of the slip yoke that entered the case.

Removing the shaft would then let the fluid drain out. If you haven't already, you should double check and most likely add fluid to your case.
 
If you use the front drive shaft you must also install a SYE. That's the only way the front shaft will work on the rear output. I think a lot of people have used transfer case drop but it's only a temporary fix.
 
I thought I explained all this yesterday...

WrenchMonkey said:
I guess you could get a custom made driveshaft, or get yours lengthened locally.
But by the time you spent that much cash, you'd be most of the way to a SYE. Then you can bolt in a stock XJ front shaft.

That'd be the MUCH better solution.

Robert
Click to expand...

:dunno:
 
wat if i take the end off my rear drive shaft and put it on the front one wont it work and yea fluid was pissin out when it happened i know i gotta fill it but i just bought the lift for so moneys tight im tryin to get by for a week or 2
 
xj944.0 said:
guess il be without a jeep for a few weeks which sucks ass
Click to expand...

You'll probably get by on the street for a couple weeks as-is.

When you took it wheeling, and drooped the rear axle, it pulled the yoke out of the slip joint.

On the road, that's a lot less likely to happen.


xj944.0 said:
wat if i take the end off my rear drive shaft and put it on the front one wont it work
Click to expand...

I guess I confused you with the front-in-the-rear trick. I'll try to explain better:


Your immediate problem is that since your lift, your rear driveshaft is a bit too short. This is because by lifting the jeep, you effectively increased the distance between the t-case and the rear axle.

There are three potential solutions to that immediate problem: Ordering a custom-made, longer driveshaft; Having your current driveshaft lengthened; Or (maybe) replacing the slip-shaft at the top of your d/s with the slip-shaft from a YJ Wrangler, which may be 1" or so longer.

These would get you going again, but wouldn't fix the underlying problem.

That underlying problem is the slip-yoke design itself, on the back of the transfer case. To really fix this, you need to install a slip-yoke eliminator kit. This will replace the slip-joint on the t-case with a fixed output yoke.

Once you do, however, you'll need a new driveshaft to work with the SYE. The new shaft will have a double u-joint (double-cardan) at the top end, and a slip fitting in the middle of the shaft.

You can order one from most any driveshaft shop, I recommend Tom Woods. Or, as a less-bulletproof but cheaper option, you can actually use a stock front XJ driveshaft in the rear, with that slip-yoke elimiator.


See, that's all the typing I was trying to avoid...

Robert
 
Probably.

Pay attention to the slip joint when you reinstall it. You want as much engagement as possible, I'd guess 3-4" would be good, but it's been a while since I've seen one.

Somebody may want to correct my guesstimate.

Robert
 
Why did the DS fall out? Was it a failure or did the yoke fall out of the TC?

I've seen lots of 3" lifts done on XJs, and none have a SYE to solve a DS falling out scenerio. The stock components should be up to the task at 3". If a longer shaft is needed, a DS from a D35 is longer than a DS from a 8.25. Also, it does not cost that much to retube a DS for the right length.

Also, there is nothing wrong with doing a t-case drop. It is a common solution for bad DS angles. The question is: Is it the right solution to this problem.

So what is special about this lift? What are it's components?
What was the Jeep doing when the DS "fell out"?

Going back to WrenchMonkey's op, check to see how much yoke to T-Case engagement you really have, then you can come up with solutions. I've run with as little as 1.5" and have never dropped a DS on the trail.

Ron
 
ok i got a driveshaft out of a d35 it is longer and tomorrow im puttin it up on my lift to get a better look at the engagement as far as the lift goes its rancho springs and shocks with 3 inch blocks in the back actually i was just turning around in the woods and it fell out ass end wast really flexing much
 
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