Radial tire trail pressure???

[Chris S]

many aluminum wheels have a casting lip across the inside of the bead. It doesn't affect normal driving, but at low pressures it can make it easier to pop a bead off.

 

[PAPXJ]

I can't run my bfg muds lower that 18psi or I will spring bead leaks...

I even get leaks at 18, but not as much as at 15 or lower. You will know that your cutting off the saver has worked if the morning after a run you don't have four flat tires.

 

[rocklandxjer]

what size tires you got?? seems to me like a problem

 

[1996cc]

what size tires you got?? seems to me like a problem

If you're talking about PAPXJ, he's running 32x11.50x15"s.

 

[1996cc]

Okay, for all those that think I'm crazy, I found the article. It should shed some more light on the topic. I took pictures with my digital camera, so we'll give that a shot:

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Close up of pics and captions:

 

[What Rd]

Kids.
I'm on my 5th set of BFGs, so yes, I'm aware that they used to come without the beadguard feature. I'm also old enough to know better than to believe everything I read.
If you think burping a little air from a tire is a serious problem, you ought to try something a little less troubling . . . like stamp collecting, perhaps. eace:

 

[vetteboy]

I used to run my 33x12.5R15 Trxus MTs at between 8 and 10 psi on 8" wheels, never lost a bead. There have been many times when I've looked out the window and simply been amazed that the sidewall is still intact, let alone still on the bead, but those tires were great for that kind of stuff.

Used to run between 15-20 psi on the road with them, seemed to wear best that way.

Of course now that I've got 39.5s and outer beadlocks I'll probably get greedy and start losing inner beads all the time.

 

[adamusmc2002]

I haven't been very impressed with bfg m/t low pressure performance. I just finished a set of goodyear mt/rs, they were great but didn't last long cuz I drove alot. I'm on a set of used bfgs until my super swamper ssrs show up, and the bfgs haven't impressed me. Just my opinion, but after the mt/rs, they're loud, leaky, and don't get much traction. IMO.

 

[KarlVP]

how much lower are you talking about? i guess in the snow the lowest you would need is about 9-8 theres no sense going that much lower, unless you have a real big tire with agressive sidwall...

You haven't wheeled in the snow enough then.

Next time in the snow, if you have air available try driving in deep snow. After every 20 feet or so, deflate another 1 psi. You would be amazed what 1 psi can do.

When I had my BFG A/T's I ran them at 8psi in the snow. I thought "no reason to go lower" I kept getting my ass kicked in the deep stuff. So I tried going even lower. I went down to 5.5psi. This worked wonders.

The best psi in the snow? Almost flat to flat. (AKA 2 to 3 psi.)

Just superglue your tires to the wheels. Just don't be around when the tire guys are trying to dismount them.

 

[PAPXJ]

Just superglue your tires to the wheels.

I am liking this idea...

 

[KarlVP]

Totally possible, just pulls rubber off when you take it off the rim.

 

[What Rd]

Black silicone adhesive does the trick, and keeps crud from getting between bead and wheel for several trips even running about 8 psi, plus doesn't tear up the tires at all. Don't use the "Ultra" black, it's a little too slippery.

 

[1996cc]

l for several trips

Are you saying that after time, it loses it's effectiveness?? Your saying just regular black RTV silicone? How many tubes did it take to do all 8 beads??

 

[What Rd]

I've found that by running my BFGs at pressures lower than most people would even consider, I get traction where others with larger and more aggressive tires do not. But, running very low pressures in radials without beadlocks over soft ground means you'll end up stuffing dirt and debris (weeds, twigs, sand, etc.) between the wheel and bead, eventually leading to slow leaks. These are easily fixed by breaking the bead and wire-brushing out the crud. Instead of simply snapping the bead back in place, however, I've found that laying a thin bead of silicone adhesive (I'm partial to Permatex brand, but honestly can't say there's any real difference) between the wheel and tire where the bead seats not only holds the tire to the wheel preventing burps or popped beads even at really low pressures, it keeps the crud from working its way in and creating leaks. The idea is to lay this thin bead of silicone along the surface where the tire actually seats against the wheel. This is not out at the lip of the wheel where most people assume. The tire actually seats on the flat surface of the wheel (parallel with the ground) just inside of the outer lip.
I've been getting about 6 runs prepped this way before I again have to break down a tire to clean out the crud. Running at low pressures like this, the adhesive really helps but crud eventually works its way in there as the silicone's bond wears out due to the movement between the tire and wheel.
It takes about 2.5 or 3 tubes of silicone adhesive to do all four tires - a thin bead is all that's needed as more just ends up oozing out on either side of the bead. When it's time to break the tire down again, the silicone just rolls out under finger pressure or if you hit a tough spot, the wire brush takes it right out.
It works quite well.

 

[1996cc]

Maybe I'll give that a try. I'll be buying a tube though to use in a caulking gun, rather than a bunch of small tubes. I'm thinking of trying the "6001" adhesive which is more adhesive than silicone, but would still work well.