• Welcome to the new NAXJA Forum! If your password does not work, please use "Forgot your password?" link on the log-in page. Please feel free to reach out to [email protected] if we can provide any assistance.

question on using Lucas

He had started another thread on which oil to use to hide the low pressure problem. No, he has not stated that he verified good oil pressure with a mechanical gauge after the last drive that showed zero. He has said it's been running and not showing any additional pressure, but I don't know if that means 10 like before, or 0. No follow up as to whether they'd checked the new sender yet either.

Did that thread say he wasn't using a Fram then?

I think he and I concluded (with out posting the conclusion), that since the oil pressure gauge, cold and hot readings were the same after replacing the oil filter and oil pressure sensor, that the gauge test before the parts were replaced, would read the same after the parts were replaced, since the dash gauge readings were the same hot and cold. He said his son while driving (after the parts were replaced) noticed it reading zero pressure hot, once, but his father (the poster here) said he has not seen ever seen it read zero, lowest he has seen it read is 10 psi hot. So the zero reading was never confirmed, or duplicated (yet), hell it could have been a loose connection on the sensor, or????

Since then he has raised the oil viscosity, so the conditions under which the zero PSI was reported but not verified are long gone, as the oil, filter and I think sender even (??) have been replaced since the one time zero psi reading was reported by his son?
 
Since then he has raised the oil viscosity, so the conditions under which the zero PSI was reported but not verified are long gone, as the oil, filter and I think sender even (??) have been replaced since the one time zero psi reading was reported by his son?

Read his first thread again. The oil change, filter, and sender replacement were performed before the drive that the son reported 0 psi and the Check Gauges light on. That was about 5 days ago. That's not exactly long gone, given that we do not know how long it's been driven. According to the poster, he dumped one quart of oil, and added the Lucas. That's all that has changed.

Again, it takes virtually no time to unscrew the sensor and hook up a mechanical gauge. That should be the next step.
 
His first post, Nov 28th, in the old thread says:

"So recently replaced the cylinder head on a 2000 Jeep with 145K miles that I purchased.

Got low oil pressure.. confirmed with mechanical gauge. 40psi at cold start, 10 psi at warm idle, 20PSI at 1600 rpm. (
I already swapped the oil sensor - no change)

I went from 10W30 to 15W40 with no noticeable increase in PSI but do feel the engine is a bit noisy now. (used Rotella 15W40 with a Napa gold filter)."


The Nov 29 post:

"well I took the jeep for a 30 min ride and I did not see the pressure drop to 0. Still running at 10 psi warm idle and 20 psi at 1500 rpm. Could it be a temporary blockage or sensor issue? I will put a mechanical gauge on it this weekend. I have 15w40 rotella running."

Later that same day:

Sigh!

"So today my son took the Jeep for a short ride and returned telling me the oil pressure went to 0 psi and the check gauge light came on.

Am I totally screwed at this point? Although the low pressure was low it was at 10psi at worst. Would it just go to zero in a matter of a day? I had 15w40 with a Napa gold filter. I had the oil sensor changed a week ago. Could an oil pump fail like that? Help.
"
 
Last edited:
Read his first thread again. The oil change, filter, and sender replacement were performed before the drive that the son reported 0 psi and the Check Gauges light on. That was about 5 days ago. That's not exactly long gone, given that we do not know how long it's been driven. According to the poster, he dumped one quart of oil, and added the Lucas. That's all that has changed.

Thanks for the clarification, I just added more for Cruiser54 in the post below.

Sounds more like a very low idle speed, or an electrical glitch that caused the zero dash gauge reading, that has not yet returned.

His cold oil pressure (40 psi?) and hot oil pressure at 1500 RPM oil pressure (20 psi?) are still fine, so that says to me that the new oil filter (NAPA Gold) is fine, and the pressure bypass valves (oil filter and oil pump) are fine.

I think he just needs to replace the oil pump before it gets worse.

Mine was down to about 8 psi hot oil at about 8-900 rpm IIRC, before I replaced the oil pump with a new high flow pump about 6 years ago. We also replaced the crank bearings while in there, but they were not shot, and the crank journals were OK. This was my 87 Wagoneer, shortly after I bought it at about 230,000 miles. It has 278,000 miles now. It gets about 19 to 22 psi hot oil pressure now on 105 F Houston heat wave day, at idle in gear at 700 rpm when the engine temp is about 205 F. And winter time at about 180 F (I use a 180 T-stat) it holds 30 psi hot at idle in gear. But I also use 20W50 Havoline API SL only, Or equal oil. I will not use any oil that lists API SN or SM or CJ-4 oil spec, nor do I use any synthetic or semi synthetics.
 
Last edited:
Back
Top