• Welcome to the new NAXJA Forum! If your password does not work, please use "Forgot your password?" link on the log-in page. Please feel free to reach out to [email protected] if we can provide any assistance.

Project Jep: Overbuilt Overland XJ Stage 1 Build Thread

took .003" out from behind the inner pinion race so,

.000" total pinion depth

.028" preload shim 10-11 in/lbs

and moved carrier .010" towards pinion came up with .006" backlash at three spots and .0055" at one spot

DRIV2.jpg


DRIV1.jpg


COAS1.jpg
 
a few pics from my transfer case rebuild:

The case had been run completely dry of oil, none of the bearings seemed to be in good shape but the rear output and the low range roller bearing in particular were really bad.

as noted before, the case would run ok in 2wd but as soon as it went into 4 range low or hi, it would make a popping sound when put under load.

The chain was stretched so bad, it was skipping over teeth on the front output shaft and smacking the side of the case. this is what caused the hole in the filter screen.

P2250241.jpg


P2250254.jpg


P2250255.jpg


I installed a full master rebuild kit, plus a new chain, new range fork and a new pump. The range fork I replaced because there was about half of the plastic pad material worn off. Unlike the mode fork, the plastic pads on my range fork were molded on permanently, and the pads included in my master kit would not work. I took a little while to track down a new fork, I didn't get much info from my salesman but he did take a casting number. The new fork is a way different casting, looks much stronger than the original so I assume it is a superceded part number. I noticed the hole that the shift rail slides through is quite a bit longer on the new fork, but it seemed to all fit ok.

P2250249.jpg


P2250250.jpg




What i chose not to replace new was the front output shaft. the teeth showed some slight damage, faint lines running parallel the length of the gear tooth on the gear face. I assume these are marks from where the tooth would catch the chain after skipping over from the previous tooth

P2250246.jpg


as far as I could tell it was light surface damage only, I saw no cracking/warping/melting/signs of deeper damage

P2250242.jpg
 
P2250252.jpg


shiny new mainshaft from advance adapters

P2250253.jpg


light tail housing upgrade..

P2260257.jpg

all the guts

P2260258.jpg


new pump

[/img]http://i949.photobucket.com/albums/ad337/ilikeparts/JepBuildPt2/P2260259.jpg?t=1267678253[/img]

front assembled

P2260260.jpg


rear assembled

PA080172.jpg


oh and the Super 88 c-clip elims / spacers i forgot to post this one earlier



one more set of pics to come with everything put back together
 
I have a question on the c clip elim kit. Do those ends just get sandwiched in there or can you weld em on the tubes too? I did one of those conversions years ago and it came with alum ends which could only be held on by bolts.
 
I have a question on the c clip elim kit. Do those ends just get sandwiched in there or can you weld em on the tubes too? I did one of those conversions years ago and it came with alum ends which could only be held on by bolts.


yes and no. on this kit, the outer is aluminum ( so i dont think you could weld it), but they are not held on by just bolts. The outers have a (i dunno, flange?) that presses into the axle tube. the pic shown above is not a final assembly, the nuts are used to draw the outers into the axle tube. once the outer is fully seated, you can remove the nuts and it was a real tight press fit.

the c-clip elims are also designed to increase axle width to match the Jeep D30 front.

Also, this upgrades you to the big bearing 9" SET9 tapered roller wheel bearing. which Superior calls a 3/4 ton wheel bearing, a big upgrade over the dinky 8.8 torrington-style wheel bearings

The wheel flange are double-drilled, so you can run 5x4.5 or 5x5.5. That way, you can match to some older D44 fronts, though I'm not sure how width matches up on that one. IMHO the only thing even worth thinking about swapping into the front of these is the 78-79 HP D44, (without going 8-lug) and I believe you would need to narrow this front end to fit, If you were awesome maybe you could mod it accept the shorter bronco D44 inner shafts..
 
Oh I see, That's a lot better than the ones I used on a stang. That's a good point about matching the ft width of a 44, I have been thinking about that too down the line someplace. I like the idea of having unluckable hubs to use with a locker. Thanks
 
Oh I see, That's a lot better than the ones I used on a stang. That's a good point about matching the ft width of a 44, I have been thinking about that too down the line someplace. I like the idea of having unluckable hubs to use with a locker. Thanks


yes unlockable hubs would be nice, I'm not a huge fan of the warn kit, but Reider Racing does make a really nice knuckle that switches you over to the GM D44 outers, this in a HPD30 w/ 30 spline locker, trussed housing..

at that point, the only thing better about a HPD44 is the ring gear diameter, but you have the extra weight, loss of clearance and of course all the fab to make it fit...

might as well drop in a 4BT and all 1ton running gear!!!



oh and thx to jeeperjohn for spotting my pinion depth error
 
Last edited:
I can't remember now who did it, but there's a nice manual hubs kit for D60 fronts that locks that hub in if it breaks. So if you break a hub, you're not losing a drive wheel. Seemed like a neat idea. I wonder if that has or will be replicated down to the D44 arena as well.
 
I can't remember now who did it, but there's a nice manual hubs kit for D60 fronts that locks that hub in if it breaks. So if you break a hub, you're not losing a drive wheel. Seemed like a neat idea. I wonder if that has or will be replicated down to the D44 arena as well.


On the stock Ford ones if you knock the lock out off on a rock or something, it automatically locks it in.
 
SOB,

i got everything back together today, including new stainless braided front brake lines, ZJ disc brake prop valve, and a pair of WBI unit bearings...

went for a test drive...screech! going around tight turns or not so tight turns under accel....

WTF

in 2wd, if it was a fresh diagnosis I would say it felt like bad spiders, only they weren't bad last time i drove it! and since then I rebuilt the whole xfer case...

I checked the shifter linkage because I had it apart, feels fine.. cycles through gears no prob parked in neutral, I know all the guts are good in the xfer case because i just had them all apart, unless switching over to the bigger range fork is causing some sort of clearance problem...

on the 8.8, i decided to save a buck and run the junkyard factory posi, spiders weren't in great shape but they weren't broken or deformed, clutches were pretty worn out. yes i put posi additive.

the fun never ends............
 
Try pulling the spiders or inner shafts out of the d30 to see if you can narrow it down some?
 
oh, missed that part :dunce: for some reason I thought the sound was coming from the front, too.
 
did some more test drive, it was making a popping noise under hard accel even going straight..

turns out the rear tire was dragging the fender well once the suspension loaded up,

broke out the cutoff wheel today, makin' it nice
 
Don't you love it when things turn out simple? Glad its not the running gear... Build looks great, a lot like what I want to do with mine someday.
 
simple? more like simply ruined the last 6 months of my life.....

trimmed out all four corners, still making the noise!!

crawled under it just pissed off, and saw the real problem, some where between the lift, stretching the rear axle 1" and the offset of the 8.8 axle, the rear driveshaft rear u-joint yoke was hitting the rear corner of the muffler, but only under a hard load/articulation...

BFH fixed that, drove it 50 miles out to a buddies ranch this weekend, did some light wheeling and everything held together,

so, things are looking up
 
Back
Top