Project Downward Spiral

[rweaver138]

Fair enough

 

[RCman]

Got the replacement driveshaft parts ordered, hopefully they'll be here for this weekend so I can wheel. If not I'll be messing with the door more and trying to come up with a way to outfit my D60 with a pinion guard. I can also wire my winch now that the terminals came in.

I'm thinking that if I do something similar to what is pictured below, but instead of the pinion support bolts (since the D60 has none) creating a clamp of sorts that surrounds the area where the pinion comes out, like a bearing clamp. With that and tied into the truss like below I think I should be ok.

 

[RCman]

Alright, see if ya'll can follow my idea or not. Opinions please.

Since nobody makes a D60 pinion guard, I've got to get creative.
I purchased just the piece that does the actual guarding that is designed around a 14b. I will then take a peice of 2"x6" x 0.250" wall box tubing and modify it so it fits the profile of the guard.

Crudely mocked in cardboard below. The red line in the first picture is where the sections will split so that I can remove it. I will use a 9/16" or 5/8" Gr8 bolt on each side to keep the halves together.

Then, I'll knock the upper corners off (not shown) and run some plate up to meet my truss. I'll bend a tab under the truss and use a few bolts to secure it in place. This should take some load off the pinion area in the event of a rock collision.

If you could actually follow my thinking. Comments? Suggestions?

 

[ROBZ95Xj]

looks like alot of work, or you could just buy a flange like sean runs, and im not sure but i dont think a 2 lb cardboard box will do

 

[ROBZ95Xj]

is seriousness the plan looks pretty darn good like Billy says FIRI

 

[kastein]

I like it, but I think it needs to attach to the housing somehow on the bottom as well, else dragging your diff across a rock in reverse could peel it right off and ram it into the yoke. Not sure how to do that without improving your rock anchor abilities somewhat.

Unfortunately I think a flange is probably the best way to do this.

 

[RCman]

looks like alot of work, or you could just buy a flange like sean runs, and im not sure but i dont think a 2 lb cardboard box will do

is seriousness the plan looks pretty darn good

It is going to be a lot of work, but my labor is free.

like Billy says FIRI

Fishing Industry Research Institute?

I like it, but I think it needs to attach to the housing somehow on the bottom as well, else dragging your diff across a rock in reverse could peel it right off and ram it into the yoke. Not sure how to do that without improving your rock anchor abilities somewhat.

Unfortunately I think a flange is probably the best way to do this.

I don't see how a flange is better? Expensive and it still doesn't protect the joint.

 

[kastein]

It'd protect the joint somewhat, especially if you make it a pretty wide one, unless you land on a real sharp ridge that misses the flange and hits the U-joint. The guard you're working on I think will be better IF it stays on the housing, I like the flange idea because I think it has a better chance of staying in one place.

 

[asp]

I don't see how a flange is better? Expensive and it still doesn't protect the joint.

I think the logic behind the flange is that the flange is hard mounted to the pinion and that the flange will hit the rock before the joint will and the flange will just spin over the rock.

I hope that made sense. That said, I see the logic of both sides.

I think your idea will work but I worry that one bolt per side won't be enough.

 

[ROBZ95Xj]

bill i think your plan will be fine, just make sure its smoothish with the bottom of the axle so it will slide over shit

 

[MoparManiac]

bill i think your plan will be fine, just make sure its smoothish with the bottom of the axle so it will slide over shit

^This.

I think you'd be fine with a flange setup, but this works too.

 

[RCman]

I think the logic behind the flange is that the flange is hard mounted to the pinion and that the flange will hit the rock before the joint will and the flange will just spin over the rock.

I'd rather keep the forces off the pinion bearings.

I think your idea will work but I worry that one bolt per side won't be enough.

The one bolt on each side is to ensure the halves don't separate. Due to the nature of the non-round pinion exit area on the center section the guard will not be able to rotate or move fore or back. I doubt I'll harm a Gr8 5/8" bolt, but time will tell.

bill i think your plan will be fine, just make sure its smoothish with the bottom of the axle so it will slide over shit

^This.

The 1st picture with the line shows about how much I'm "losing". It is approx 3/8" and it is unavoidable. Otherwise I'm no worse off than a 14b with a similar guard. Or comparing it with the one from post 1342, I'm better off.

I think you'd be fine with a flange setup, but this works too.

Problem with the flange is the added cost and the fact it doesn't 100% protect the joint.
This is essentially free for me and it will ensure that the joint can't hit a rock.

 

[asp]

I'd rather keep the forces off the pinion bearings.
The one bolt on each side is to ensure the halves don't separate. Due to the nature of the non-round pinion exit area on the center section the guard will not be able to rotate or move fore or back. I doubt I'll harm a Gr8 5/8" bolt, but time will tell.

I don't disagree with that at all.

Hopefully not, but you are correct. Time and rocks will tell.

 

[RCman]

I don't disagree with that at all.

Hopefully not, but you are correct. Time and rocks will tell.

Maybe I can squeeze a 3/4" bolt in there. I'll have to check in the AM.

 

[redrider2911]

5/8s bolt. You'll be fine. Do you have access to a manual mill or even better, cnc, like a haas or something? I would say take a couple of 1-1/2" x 2" chunks of solid steel bar, whatever length you need. And machine it to the profile of the housing. Then you dont have to worry about the tubing crushing. And honestly if you have access to a mill it would be easier and a cleaner job as well.

 

[insanity]

Congrats on ROTM!

 

[RCman]

Well the major fitting of the two halves is done. It took WAY longer than I had planned upon.
I'm happy with the fit, it is very snug. I've got the 1.5" clearance holes for the socket done, just need the 3/4" hole for the bolt diameter. Then I need to create the bracing that'll attach to the truss.

5/8s bolt. You'll be fine. Do you have access to a manual mill or even better, cnc, like a haas or something? I would say take a couple of 1-1/2" x 2" chunks of solid steel bar, whatever length you need. And machine it to the profile of the housing. Then you dont have to worry about the tubing crushing. And honestly if you have access to a mill it would be easier and a cleaner job as well.

I'm not a fan of "fine". If something is "fine" it means I'm going to up it.
I do have access to all of those, but have you ever really looked at the pinion output area on a LP D60? It is not round, not symmetrical, the out pinion bearing oil runner/galley creates a issue, and the majority tapers toward the ring gear. Short of a something like a FARO arm it wouldn't exactly be an easy task. Since this is a one off, one time deal there is not need for that.

Congrats on ROTM!

Thank you! :yelclap:

 

[5spd_xj]

glad to hear you've been making progress...so you'll come wheeling on the 10th, right?

 

[RCman]

glad to hear you've been making progress...so you'll come wheeling on the 10th, right?

That all depends on how soon I can get this guard done and get the rear axle back under the Jeep. I need to paint my garage, so if I can get it done I will be able to drive the XJ out of the garage (and out of my way) for this coming weekend, yes. Otherwise no.

 

[5spd_xj]

alright, fair enough. I'm rooting for ya. you need to dominate that line that ate the u-joint, maybe test out this new contraption