• Welcome to the new NAXJA Forum! If your password does not work, please use "Forgot your password?" link on the log-in page. Please feel free to reach out to [email protected] if we can provide any assistance.

Power Steering Pump in my Subie

heyhar

NAXJA Forum User
It's belts, hoses, and plugs time, at 90k miles, for our '04 OutBack Wagon. I had the head gaskets and timing belt done about 2k miles ago, and now it's time for the rest. I put on two new Gates belts (XJs like them best, why not Subies?). The A/C belt tightened up nice, no squeal at the bottom-end of it's tension range, according to the Krikit II. But the other belt, driving the Alternator and the P/S pump wanted to keep slipping, because of the pump. Using the Krikit, I took the tension to the upper limit, never exceeding it, and now the P/S pump sounds like hell, squawking like it's empty, which it's not.

Is it possible that the belt was installed too tight when the engine was serviced 2k miles ago, and the bearing wore funny? It just seems like a coincidence that I remove the belt, replace it with a new one, don't over-tighten it, and now have a bad pump. It'll be about a hundred bucks on Rock Auto to replace it, so no big deal, but I'd like to have an idea what happened, so I don't do it again!...Thanks
 
The actual spec on the belt tension when it's properly done is as loose as possible without the pump squealing the belt at full lock.

If you tightened it to "spec" it's probably damaged and will need rebuilt. I don't know if it was a typo in the original service manuals (happens alot with Subaru) or something changes as the cars see higher mileage?

I've worked on Subys for almost 15 years and I've seen this happen a lot. :(
 
When I first put the new belt on, I started so loose that the steering wheel wouldn't turn because the pump was slipping, and worked up from there. I'm thinkin' the damage was already done, because the funky noise was already happening...
 
I have an 04 legacy outback wagon. the same thing happened to me when I swapped to a grimmspeed harmonic balancer and re-used the OEM belt. I also have criket 1 & 2.
The tension is not the problem right now. It will go away but the tension needs to be perfected.
The problem is with the front of the pulley on the steering pump. The pulley has a bearing seal which when the belt was removed allowed a small amount of air to enter the system causing a pocket.
I suggest you remove the cap and start vehicle and have someone do several(I mean a LOT) of lock to lock turns and watch the bubbles and air being pushed out of the system. This process takes several times including drive time with many light-to-full lock turning involved.
The tension on the belt should also be measured in two places(I'll try and post them tomorrow) But the tension should be very tight. I beleive it is the upper limit and some that just stops the squeal.
ALSO another trick my guys do is smear on bearing grease on the front of the pulley bearing seal to stop any air. remember not to rotate the pump pulley backwards---EVER!
BTW I am a service consultant for Subaru This a common issue that I have seen many times @ the dealership.
I also have been a loyal Subaru owner: currently own 2008 Legacy GT Spec.B and 2004 Legacy Outback Wagon.
www.subaruoutback.org

Good Luck
 
I got a rebuilt pump from Rock Auto, ACDelco, but it came without the pulley. No big deal, right? The pulley will not come off the original. It doesn't have the usual lip on the front, to grip with the puller. I ground some small reliefs in the puller jaws to fit into the openings of the pulley, but just can't seem to get a good angle to push the shaft out of the pulley. All the kits for sale or rent at the chain stores also need the lip to work. I went to the Subie dealer, and they said that IF they have to change a pump (hardly ever), theirs come with the pulley installed. He offered to order a new pulley, but it was $75, IF he could get it! And he jokingly said I didn't want to know what the price of a dealer pump was...He's right! So I called Rock Auto, and they're sending me one that is supposed to have the pulley on it.

I've never run into this in 40 years of wrenching, especially on a seemingly simple repair. I've Googled it, looked on Youtube, and various Subie enthusiast sites, and can't seem to come up with a solution to this problem. Oddly enough, I've gotten more and better results on NAXJA than on the Subie sites, with this adventure and a few others!
 
Back
Top