Power outlet socket/cps issue conected?

[kastein]

Yeah I mean the crank position connector that is attached to that small bracket on the manifold.

:huh: that's wacky, my crank position sensor is attached to the side of the transmission. I've never even heard of one on a bracket on the manifold. Maybe you're talking about the throttle position sensor?

My lower heater hose was in contact with the connector. And it was this that I simply unplugged a few weeks ago and then reconnected(but I also pushed it up and back abit away from the connector without thinking too much about it) The cps that I replaced were both genuine jeep items. My heater hose is actually shorter than standard courtesy of a garage that fitted my gas system. Whilst tapping into the cooling system, they deemed it appropriate to elevate my lower heater hose to stop coolant spilling out with a RAZOR blade stood in it's point on my valve cover. They then forgot to take it out!!!!! I picked up the car and drove it home. I then noticed the shoddy workmanship, but it was to late. There was a tiny hole in my lower heater hose. I then done the wrong thing and went back to them to replace it. They just snipped the bad bit out and pulled the hose up to the t-piece. The result is my heater hose is probably not positioned as it should be even on a rhd. It was definatley heat related no arguments. Both incidents started intermittently but just got worse to the point I couldn't drive it once up to operating temp. I now need to do the right thing and replace hose and grease that connector. I am confident this contact is the cause either through vibration (unlikley as it only done it when scorching hot) or heat somehow telling the connector you fercoffee!!

AHA!

There we go. I did not realize you had an RHD Jeep (I guess I should have, based on your location) and for that matter never realized the heater hoses were on the other side on an RHD! Yeah, I would definitely try and keep the hoses away from the CPS if you're seeing a cause and effect relationship there - buy a new hose, preferably a formed one like the stock one, if you need to. You may be able to get away with using a coupler where they cut the hose and only replacing the section they cut out.

 

[winterbeater]

It is still not easy to understand why a hot plug would not conduct electricity.

 

[dunbad]

Yeah that's what the recovery guy was scratching his head over winterbeater. It's just wires right? Because he turned up an hour later my car had cooled down I assured him my car would start and drive perfect on either petrol or liquid gas for about 5 miles before spluttering and dying on either petrol or gas. My cps also goes to my bellhousing but it's the other end that I'm talking about, the connector end that is fitted on a small metal bracket on the top side but towards the rear of the manifold. Knowing the symtoms of my car (without knowing the cause!) I knew my car would NOT have got me home under it's on steam once the issue had got that bad. Nothing else was looked at, nor was that connector unplugged this time round, simply tie rapping that hose out the way and bingo. The recovery guy spoke of vibration, but I know I could floor it with a cold engine and no signs. So I don't know. I do high milage so if this issue comes back I will as always update, but like I say that hose I strongly believe is the whole cause either through heat, or causing a bad connection somehow!

 

[CharlesS]

Apparently the heat from the hose was affecting the ECM signal or the 5V reference voltage at the connector. Heat does affect resistance in wiring which can change the voltage that the ECM receives... confusing the computer....

 

[kastein]

I don't think it'd affect resistance that much. Maybe the connector is gunked up more than you think? This is a really strange one, but hey, if you can figure out something that makes it work, who cares if the theory agrees.

 

[dunbad]

The connector wasn't gunked up, it was only a year old. The connection also "looked" good. Maybe an amount of heat transfer was making it's way down the metal wiring to the sensor itself? Just enough to say no thankyou! I don't know! But I do know left overnight to cool down completley I'd get the first 20 miles hassle free, then it starts, and gets worse if I try to restart after ten minutes rest I'd get another mile or two. Has to be heat related somewhere along the line. Another 110 miles today no issues. Again knowing the symtoms it wouldn't have allowed me to do that once it got this consistant. Cheers for your help, if it comes back then no doubt so will I
cheers

 

[kastein]

Another thing you can do to really narrow this down is to use freon spray or canned air (actually freon in a different can) - when it does it again, spray JUST the cable/connector/sensor with the freon (or can air held upside down) and then immediately try again. If it starts right back up, you win.

 

[winterbeater]

When I was working warranty, one of the requirements to prove that you knew the problem was to be able to turn the problem on and off. (Obviously TOYOTA missed this concept!)

Freon (or ice water) to turn the problem off, a hair dryer to make it happen. Right in the vicinity of your house so you don't have to call for a tow.