Plan to remove sludge and change seals/gaskets

[souske]

Yeah do you use it all the time? Or just for cleaning the engine. And what's "dino". Looks like i'm hitting up walmart tomorrow. Any specific oil filter I should get? Napa is like 35 minutes away so I have advance, pep boys, auto zone, strauss and a family part shack place.

Call around the places close to you and see who has a WIX. Same as the NAPA filter. Not a fram :shiver:

 

[joe_peters]

Wix makes the NAPA Gold filters.

 

[hupo224]

So I got everything I needed. Starting with some tranny fluid and let it idle for 15-20 minutes. Then I'm degreasing the engine. Then putting the 10w30 rotella and the roslin.

 

[hupo224]

Didn't do the atf because I messed up trying to drain 1 qt. So 10w30 rotella and 1 quart roslin stuff. Lifters or whatever are still pretty damn loud..

 

[RCP Phx]

Washing all that crap into the motor can do more damage than good.Did anyone mention damage to the valve stem seals yet(I know mains were covered)?

 

[hupo224]

All I know is that my xj sounds even more like a diesel now...

 

[nick86]

I think your just being paranoid about what you seen inside the valve cover. If it's got good oil pressure, fix the so said leaks, change oil every 3000 & forget about it. The 4.0 will run forever if properly maintained. Stop wasting $$$$ on snake oils(mystery fix's).

 

[ehall]

If you do that DON'T DRIVE OR REV UP THE ENGINE with the ATF in it. Let the engine idle for about 20 minutes, then change the oil/filter.

Why not drive it? I used a quart of Type-F for 1000 miles in my Cadillac and the engine ran noticeably better afterwards.

 

[ehall]

Didn't do the atf because I messed up trying to drain 1 qt. So 10w30 rotella and 1 quart roslin stuff. Lifters or whatever are still pretty damn loud..

If it's anything like the 300k mile 4.0 that was in my beater, the noise is probably from sludge restricting flow to the valves.

 

[joe_peters]

Why not drive it? I used a quart of Type-F for 1000 miles in my Cadillac and the engine ran noticeably better afterwards.

Everything I have been taught and have read about using ATF as a flush talks of possible damage to the bearings. Adding ATF is better than kerosene or solvents, but not by much. I prefer using diesel motor oil.

"When at Chrysler Engineering we would put trans fluid in an engine to accelerate the wear on the cam,lifters and crank bearings.In other words we used it to destroy the engine. I wouldn't drive it at all with trans fluid in it. Just get it to running temp for a while,then drain it while it's hot. Put engine oil in it,run it again till it's hot and change the oil and filter again." Copied from dodgedakotas.com

The PRV V6 engines were a POS wet-sleeve sludge creating monstrosity and were loosing their cams even when the oil changes were performed IAW the maintenance schedules. When we brought up using ATF in these to clean up the sludge (looked like old engines run with non-detergent oils inside) both the Peugeot and Volvo factory reps were adamant not to use it and if we did we bought the engine.

PRV engine history (including the DeLorean--Back to the Future!): http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/PRV_engine

 

[ehall]

Interesting thanks. I wonder if he is talking about filling the engine with ATF versus using 10-20%--filling it would certainly beat the crap out of it, which is the stated goal. OTOH he says "wouldn't drive it at all" so I guess he saw real damage from using it too. On the third hand, trannies are nothing but gears and bearings and pure ATF doesn't tear them up... different metals and loads though. I suppose the question is what is worse, blocked passages or scuffed components

 

[joe_peters]

Agree, blocked passages and damaged bearings/journals or clean passages and damaged bearings/journals--sort of like that story "The Lady, or the Tiger".

 

[hupo224]

The oil I bought just said "sae 30" I'm going to pick up the same oil (shell rotella) but in 15w40. Should make her a bit more quiet I hope

Also my oil pressure goes anywhere between 20-60 psi

 

[hupo224]

Still kind of loud. Hopefully time with this new oil and rislone will help

 

[Stumper92]

I just thought I would mention, based on your photos showing the oil filter, the O-Rings for the filter adapter (both upper and lower) appear to be leaking. I can tell you from experience the oil leaking around those O-Rings will run to the back of the motor and appear to be a rear main seal leaking. For 5 bucks from the stealership you can get the kit and replace those O-Rings pretty easy. I did not get to hear the video, but I also know these 4.0s tend to get a little piston slap when they get up in miles and years. I would be careful how much "flushing" I would do to this engine. Sometimes the sludge is whats holding things together and you can create more leaks and cause bearings to spin. Just my 2 cents.

 

[Four2score]

Hupo, following your story, now that its October, can you give us a follow up on your findings & experiences?

 

[SuzysJ]

ATF is just 20W motor oil without combustion bypass control products installed. No special cleaning power. While diesel-rated oils are better at containing combustion products -- longer, mainly -- they aren't really high detergent in the sense of "cleaning" an engine.

You all can go over to BobIsTheOilGuy.com to read up on engine cleaning if you want. Thousands of threads.

AUTO.RX is the one I've been using for the past eight years. Another is LUBE CONTROL LC-20 that I've been using for almost 40.

Marvel Mystery Oil is over-rated, as is RISLONE. Both use the kind of solvents NOT good for engines.

Follow directions on above products and you'll be fine. I've had some engines never opened after the factory built them thirty and more years ago and the above products will help them maintain proper lubrication. On the ones I have these products got rid of any sludge and a lot of varnish. Easily, effectively, gently.

As to filters stick with BALDWIN B2-HPG or DONALDSON P169071 as these are low-restriction, full flow, high capture products. The "HP" filters on the shelves at the Zone tend to be high restriction, not good for this or any engine. WIX and others are simply not in the same category.

The oil analyses I've run on the 4.0 bears this out. Also, put some cork gasketing under the valve cover inlets/outlets. If you see oil on the outside of the motor, that means that dirt and water (increased condensation) are getting IN the motor.

Good luck

.

.

 

[hupo224]

Motor has been great. Still knocks. I feel no loss of power at all. Oil change time soon. I am having fuel pressure issues. Posting more in my other thread. I feel its related to the pump. And possibly a crimped steel fuel line.