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Overheating or Bad Temperature Sensor?

I had the same kind of problem currently but I haven't had anything happen. It was about 106 outside yesterday and previously we had changed the thermostat twice, Once last weekend and then once yesterday. Yet it was still over heating. A friend of mine said there may be some blockage in the block itself creating a lot of pressure and heat. This seems to be true due to the fact that I had a lot of air bubbles in the cooling system. I still have no solution though.
 
Overheating can be caused by anything that decreases the cooling system’s ability to absorb, transport, and dissipate heat, such as a low coolant level, loss of coolant (through internal or external leaks), poor heat conductivity inside the engine because of accumulated mineral deposits in the water jackets or radiator, a defective thermostat that doesn’t open, poor airflow through the radiator, a slipping fan clutch, an inoperative electric cooling fan, a collapsed lower radiator hose, an eroded or loose water pump impeller or even a defective radiator cap.

The cooling system is a group of related parts that depend on proper function from each of its component parts to keep the engine cool. Service the cooling system and replace any under-performing or suspected weak parts. Any component part of the cooling system that is not fully doing its job will stress the others and your cooling system will overheat. The most important maintenance item is to flush and refill the coolant periodically. Coolant should be replaced every 36,000 miles or every three years. Anti-freeze has a number of additives that are designed to prevent corrosion in the cooling system, but they have a limited life span. The corrosion causes scale that eventually builds up and begins to clog the thin flat tubes in the radiator and heater core, causing the engine to eventually overheat.


-Use a flushing/cleaning solution and then drain and fill the radiator with a fresh 50/50 coolant and water mix. With a neglected cooling system you may have to flush several times.
-Inspect the radiator for mud/bugs/grass clogging the outside and mineral deposits clogging the inside. Clean or replace as needed.
-Replace the thermostat with a STANT or Robertshaw 195* thermostat. Cheap thermostats are cheap for a reason.
-Replace the radiator cap if your Jeep has one. An old worn out cap will allow boil overs and/or allow the coolant flash over into to steam. You will see the coolant temps suddenly jump from 210* to the Red Zone and back to 210* if your radiator cap is weak.
-Inspect/test or replace the mechanical fan clutch. A worn fan clutch will allow temperature creep at stoplights, in heavy traffic, and on the 4x4 trails. A fan clutch that “looks” OK is not the same as working OK. Consider installing a Heavy Duty fan clutch such as the NAPA #272310.
-Inspect the electric cooling fan and the fan relay. Apply 12 volts and make sure the fan runs. Exchange the cooling fan relay with one of the others similar relays. Confirm that the e-fan starts when engine temps reach 215-218*. Repair or replace the fan or relay as needed.
-Inspect/test or replace the coolant temperature sensor that activates the e-fan.
-Replace the water pump. The pumping fins can deteriorate over time and the pump will not flow enough coolant to keep the temps under control.
-Inspect/replace the radiator hoses. Make sure the coiled wire is installed in the lower hose.

If you have covered all the points listed above and still have overheating issues, inspect the head for cracks and head gasket for leaks. Exhaust gasses entering the coolant can raise the temperature of the coolant or cause steam pockets in the coolant that will temporarily block the flow of coolant

Read more about cooling systems here –

www.offroaders.com/tech/engine-overheating.htm

www.familycar.com/classroom/coolingsystem.htm

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I have a flaky temp gauge as well. Right above 215 at the exact same spot on the gauge it jumps to the redline. It does it every time and it's not gradual like you slowly over heat it's instant like a dead short in the wires or sensor. I've replaced the sensor and it still does it.

It hits about 220 and bam! Up goes the gauge. It's not boiling and it instantly drops the second you do something to cool it off.
 
Great info

Those were some really informative posts!

One thing I did not see there was suggested coolant types: What does everyone prefer to run?

I know Water Wetter has great cooling properties but it does not lubricate or prevent corrosion so much - correct?

Does anyone run Dexcool? I would prefer to run that for its "Aluminum Friendly" properties and it's what all my other vehicles use.

Currently I am just running go 'ol Prestone ethlyene glycol - the standard old school stuff the manual recommended.

I drive my XJ up horrid grades in 100+ temps sometimes and it never crosses 210 - the fan clutch locks up though and makes quite a racket, but does its job well (Hayden 2625). Only time I see the electric run is idling at a light after a climb like that. Then and only then will it just peak over the 210 mark and the electric fan will hold it.
 
I have a flaky temp gauge as well. Right above 215 at the exact same spot on the gauge it jumps to the redline. It does it every time and it's not gradual like you slowly over heat it's instant like a dead short in the wires or sensor. I've replaced the sensor and it still does it.

It hits about 220 and bam! Up goes the gauge. It's not boiling and it instantly drops the second you do something to cool it off.


Mine is doing the same thing. For sh*ts and giggles I ordered a new temps sensor. 14$ shipped off eBay. Will see if that makes a difference.

Rumor has it that the OBD II Xjs will try to "get your attention" by pegging ghe gauge and turning on the check engine light if a certain temp is reached.

Come to think of it I've never seen my gauge between 220 and 250. It's always done the swing over to 250 thing you mentioned instead of climbing slowly.

Might explain why I claim I've been overheating but haven't cracked a head.
 
Mine is doing the same thing. For sh*ts and giggles I ordered a new temps sensor. 14$ shipped off eBay. Will see if that makes a difference.

Rumor has it that the OBD II Xjs will try to "get your attention" by pegging ghe gauge and turning on the check engine light if a certain temp is reached.

Come to think of it I've never seen my gauge between 220 and 250. It's always done the swing over to 250 thing you mentioned instead of climbing slowly.

Might explain why I claim I've been overheating but haven't cracked a head.

I bought a cheap "Mopar OEM" sensor off ebay; it was an unboxed SMP, and it was off by 30 degrees. Don't go cheap on critical sensors.
 
I bought a cheap "Mopar OEM" sensor off ebay; it was an unboxed SMP, and it was off by 30 degrees. Don't go cheap on critical sensors.


Said "Brand=Mopar" I'll try it and return it if it's off. Bought one of those NEVER works CPS from Ebay 30,000 miles ago and it's worked like a charm.
 
I have a flaky temp gauge as well. Right above 215 at the exact same spot on the gauge it jumps to the redline. It does it every time and it's not gradual like you slowly over heat it's instant like a dead short in the wires or sensor. I've replaced the sensor and it still does it.

It hits about 220 and bam! Up goes the gauge. It's not boiling and it instantly drops the second you do something to cool it off.

I am of the belief that the discrete jump in temperature happens when the pressure cap opens and the internal pressure drops briefly to bleed the growing volume of fluid, this leads to short term temperature spike. The fluid volume increases with temperature. This is why I prefer the closed Renix system, as it does not need to open to bleed liquid, it stays closed until about 265 F if the system does not have a leak. The difference is the air bubble in the Renix bottle, the air is compressible, the coolant liquid is not compressible. But the Renix bottle and the P-trap hose cause their own issues with the Renix. The newer cars have the closed system like Renix, but use better quality sealed plastic bottles, and have better plumbing layouts.
 
Re: Great info

Those were some really informative posts!

One thing I did not see there was suggested coolant types: What does everyone prefer to run?

I know Water Wetter has great cooling properties but it does not lubricate or prevent corrosion so much - correct?

Does anyone run Dexcool? I would prefer to run that for its "Aluminum Friendly" properties and it's what all my other vehicles use.

Currently I am just running go 'ol Prestone ethlyene glycol - the standard old school stuff the manual recommended.

I drive my XJ up horrid grades in 100+ temps sometimes and it never crosses 210 - the fan clutch locks up though and makes quite a racket, but does its job well (Hayden 2625). Only time I see the electric run is idling at a light after a climb like that. Then and only then will it just peak over the 210 mark and the electric fan will hold it.

Water wetter lowers the surface tension, so the coolant wets high surface tension surfaces better, to help avoid gas air bubble traps in hot spots in the engine block. That is all it does.

I won't run anything but the old green stuff with sodium silicate and E-Glycol.
 
1998 Cherokee 4dr
4x4 Auto 4.0L w/ 160k miles

Alright, so first a little background:

On memorial day weekend I was out in the mountains camping, and it starting overheating. I believe what happened was that the thermostat stuck, pressure built up and ruptured the lower radiator hose, because there was no coolant the temperature sensor wasn't reading high. I continued to drive it to get out of woods where a tow truck could get me, and in the process ended up blowing the head gasket and warping the head.

So, yesterday I picked it up from the shop. They replaced the head gasket, machined the head, replaced the thermostat, and replaced the hose. On the way home (about and hour and half drive) it started acting up.

About a half an hour after leaving it was running normally, with the temp at about 225° (it was in the mid 90s outside), then the needle suddenly jumped up to about 250° (the first red dash) and the "check gauges" light came on. Almost immediately it dropped back down to 225°. It did that a couple more times before I pulled over to check it. Everything seemed fine, there was pressure on the upper radiator hose and it felt hot. The coolant overflow bottle was completely full and overflowing though.

After that I kept driving it home, and the temp kept jumping. Sometimes it would stay at 250° for a few minutes at a time. It also seemed to be related to the revs. If I gave it gas it would jump up, but if I let off it would drop back down. Eventually it ended up sticking at 250° for most of the rest of the way home (maybe 15 minutes).

This morning on the way to work it seemed fine. It warmed up steadily and normally, and didn't get above about 215°.

Any ideas what could be going on? It seems like maybe the temperature sensor could be bad, given how sporadically the needle jumped around (obviously it's not really possible for it to jump up or down 30° in one second). But, maybe it is overheating?

If you are lucky, what happened was the radiator cap opened repeatedly and purged air from the coolant system, causing the Temp swings, then over night the cap let coolant back in as the coolant cooled off, and shrunk in volume. If that is correct, you may be OK now. If the temp swings return, the problem is something else.
 
On the 97+ gauges the voltmeter and temp gauge go into idiot mode once they go past a certain point. IE alt dies and the battery is at 11 volts it will peg down to the bottom of the gauge instead of giving you a real reading and making you act more quickly on the problem.. Same thing with the temp gauge i'm sure when these things had a warranty they didn't want people thinking driving past 225 was a good idea so the put the thing in o Sh&t mode and would just peg the gauge full right until it cooled back down a little.

On that note I would have them flush your system out more and more and more. I know i was having major issues with temp ( never blew a head or gasket) but it took maybe 10-15 long flushes to get that water clean after a few weeks of doing this. (I have a 99 with 210K) I also dropped a money bomb aswell and got a csf 2 core rad, new pump hoses, thermostat, and flushed my heater core out with clr (which was 2 years ago no leaks)
 
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I was going to call BS on the temp gauge, but I've never had mine past 221 (per OBDII gadgets), and with the PCM driving the gauges based on sensor inputs and the circuitry in the dash, anything is possible.

Checked the FSM; haven't found the specifics listed yet, but sure enough, it says if the PCM sees a high temp, it puts the needle at the beginning of the red zone, lights the check gauges light, and chimes once. If it sees a "critical" temp, it pegs the needle.

That's the abbreviated version, but it appears that it is programmed to make you quit doing whatever you were doing. The temp displayed is not necessarily the actual coolant temp.
 
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I was going to call BS on the temp gauge, but I've never had mine past 221 (per OBDII gadgets), and with the PCM driving the gauges based on sensor inputs and the circuitry in the dash, anything is possible.

Checked the FSM; haven't found the specifics listed yet, but sure enough, it says if the PCM sees a high temp, it puts the needle at the beginning of the red zone, lights the check gauges light, and chimes once. If it sees a "critical" temp, it pegs the needle.

That's the abbreviated version, but it appears that it is programmed to make you quit doing whatever you were doing. The temp displayed is not necessarily the actual coolant temp.

This explains all my "overheating " that hasn't resulted in any boilovers or the cracked 0331 head. I've never seen my needle Pegged.
 
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