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Optima Batteries

Just for fun, I take some of the Optima batteries we get returned, put them on a proper charger/tester and let it run. Amazing how many "bad" batteries are actually fine. Not saying we do not get actual "bad" Optimas coming back, but a fair amount are still "good".

Yea, it's also amazing how many batteries "test" good on a tester but are actually still crap after they've been in a vehicle for a few days. I had that exact thing happen with my last Optima.

What I see is that Optima has a fantastic marketing campaign, along with "online advisors" or whatever the hell "Optima Jim" is called. That combined with some consumers who get several years out of their Optimas, lead them to believe that Optimas are "the best". But what they fail to realize is, that you can get the same if not better longevity out of OEM or even parts store batteries but at a small fraction of the cost of an Optima. That's my theory, lol hasta
 
even after a jump start an optima will not take a charge if it has fallen below 10v (something like that, the actual spec is on their website). it MUST be charged by a charger equipped to handle AGM style batteries if it has fallen below this threshold. The only problems I've ever had with mine are when the jeep sat for a long time with a small draw on it and discharged the battery. sticking it on the AGM charger has fixed every one i've taken in as a core at my shop.
 
But what they fail to realize is, that you can get the same if not better longevity out of OEM or even parts store batteries but at a small fraction of the cost of an Optima. That's my theory, lol hasta
the benefit of the optima is not it's longevity, it's the ability to take abuse. standard batteries have metal plates inside that can be dislodged by vibration or repeated beating from going fast in the dirt. optimas do not have this problem. if you don't need the ruggedness of an optima than yes, I agree, a standard battery is a better choice.
 
Update.... I took the #3 battery in, and it tested out at 12.6 volts, and 900+ CA. He told me it was just fine, and that there's nothing wrong with it...... But shouldn't it have over 13V, after a full charge? Which brings me to another interesting fact about these AGMs.......
In a normal Lead/Acid Flooded Cell battery, you have appx. 2V per cell, and can check for a shorted cell, by looking for 2V voltage drops..... However this will not work on an AGM, because each one of their cells have appx. 12V when charged. so if you put a meter on the battery, you may see 11.9 V and you could still have a shorted cell....

A properly charged battery have about 2.1 volts per cell be it a single cell, 3 cells or 6 cells ie: the batteries we normally put into our XJ's. that gives a total of 12.6 volts when fully charged. A 12 volt battery reading 13 volts simply indicates that the battery have a surface/residual charge as in just comming off a charger. Within an hour +/-, that 13 volts will fall to 12.6 volts if removed from the charger and no load applied.

11.9 volts on a battery shows a battery that is slightly discharged. Depending on the reserve AMPS, it may still start a vehicle.

I have never heared of an AGM battery having 12 volts per cell. Is this true of the Optima? The AGM batteries that are being used in the telephone industry are all 2 volt per cell and when properly charged will read 2.1 volt per cell. We usually charge them between 2.2 and 2.25 volt per cell.
 
I have never heared of an AGM battery having 12 volts per cell. Is this true of the Optima? The AGM batteries that are being used in the telephone industry are all 2 volt per cell and when properly charged will read 2.1 volt per cell. We usually charge them between 2.2 and 2.25 volt per cell.

Optima is still just a battery of cells just like any other flooded lead acid or absorbed glass mat style battery. They all have six cells responsible for about 2.1V each.
 
Optima is still just a battery of cells just like any other flooded lead acid or absorbed glass mat style battery. They all have six cells responsible for about 2.1V each.

My thoughts exactly. I have two of the red tops in my XJ for years without a problem. Anyway, since I have never seen one of these batteries open or a drawing of them I could not argue/discuss their makeup. I did not believe the description posted earlier,... I am sure happy to get some clarification on the matter. Thank you.
 
My thoughts exactly. I have two of the red tops in my XJ for years without a problem. Anyway, since I have never seen one of these batteries open or a drawing of them I could not argue/discuss their makeup. I did not believe the description posted earlier,... I am sure happy to get some clarification on the matter. Thank you.

:thumbup:
 
A properly charged battery have about 2.1 volts per cell be it a single cell, 3 cells or 6 cells ie: the batteries we normally put into our XJ's. that gives a total of 12.6 volts when fully charged. A 12 volt battery reading 13 volts simply indicates that the battery have a surface/residual charge as in just comming off a charger. Within an hour +/-, that 13 volts will fall to 12.6 volts if removed from the charger and no load applied.

11.9 volts on a battery shows a battery that is slightly discharged. Depending on the reserve AMPS, it may still start a vehicle.

I have never heared of an AGM battery having 12 volts per cell. Is this true of the Optima? The AGM batteries that are being used in the telephone industry are all 2 volt per cell and when properly charged will read 2.1 volt per cell. We usually charge them between 2.2 and 2.25 volt per cell.

Hmmm...... This info is what was explained to me, when I Warrantied out a bad Red Top. I was at a local shop called Pacific Power, who only deal in batteries. I had a Optima with a shorted cell, but it read above 11V. I had explained to their rep that I had used my Fluke to check for a bad cell, but it didn't yield the results that I would expect. This is when he explained that you could not diagnose an optima for a shorted cell in this manor, as they had full voltage per cell, verses the 2+V of a typical Flooded style battery. Something about their cells being wired in Parallel, instead of Series. Now I took this information at face value, because I was speaking with someone who was supposed to be the guy with all the answers. What he said made sense, but maybe he was full of Crap, and I would like to know! Maybe "OptimaJim" can jump in here, and straighten out this confusion.......:confused1
 
Hmmm...... This info is what was explained to me, when I Warrantied out a bad Red Top. ..:confused1

I understand you my friend. The technician may be correct. Is it 100% possible they have 12 volts per cell and then parelled to give the desired AMPS. I have not heared of a manufacturer doing that but new ways to do the same old thing are put on the market every day.

As a former marine mechanic, we paralell several conventional 6 volt or 12 volt batteries to give the desired AMPS. There is no reason a manufacturer cannot do the same thing per battery if they think it would give them an edge in the market place.
 
Peteyg, it's not funny at all that battery threads keep popping up on a lot of different forums. Now is the time of year when folks start taking their summer vehicles and boats out of storage and find their batteries are dead. Unfortunately, many of them stored their vehicles for the winter with a partially-discharged battery and gave no thought to maintaining it over the winter. Some may have thought enough to at least disconnect the battery from their vehicle, but those who take the time to check voltage before storing their battery and maintain it properly through the winter months are definitely in the minority and every battery company in the world has years of sales data to back that up.

cal, while I understand individual experiences can vary, the quality of our batteries has always been excellent and is better now than it has ever been. Glenn B's experience of finding a fair amount of good Optimas returned under warranty, as well as the attitude of several others in this thread, who prefer to simply return a battery for a warranty exchange with no questions asked speaks to the issues that all battery manufacturers face. The issue of good, but discharged batteries being returned under warranty has been costly enough for some companies, that some will now void the warranty on their batteries, if they are found to be discharged below a minimum voltage level, which is a legitimate concern for anyone who runs a battery in a demanding application. We didn't do that with our warranty, but we have been very pro-active in trying to inform our customers about how they can recover these batteries on their own.

ZAX DAD, our RedTops will measure about 12.6-12.8 volts fully-charged, while our YellowTops will measure about 13.0-13.2 volts fully-charged. I'm not sure I understand what you posted about each of our cells having approximately 12 volts when charged, as that is simply not the case with any battery that I know of. As techno1154 and Shorty indicated, if each battery cell has about 2.1 volts, then I don't know how it is possible for a battery with five or fewer functional cells to measure 11.9 volts. While batteries that measure between 10 and 11 volts may have lost a cell, batteries with voltages outside of that range are often just deeply-discharged (and some within that range as well).

88_cherokee, please PM me the name and location of the retailer that does not want to perform warranty service on our batteries.

RWKHausSupply, what kind of draw are you dealing with in your XJ? With the accessories you mentioned- parker pumper, race radio, trans fan, radiator fan, lights, etc... you would probably be better-served by a battery designed for deep-cycle use, like our YellowTop.

GrimmJeeper, any battery that has been deeply-discharged, Optima or otherwise, may not take a charge from a traditional battery charger, as many chargers will not deliver current to batteries that have voltage below a minimum threshold (usually around 10.5 volts). That is why some other companies have opted to void the warranty on their batteries, if they are deeply-discharged. Newer chargers, like your AGM charger, will deliver current to these batteries and successfully recover them. In addition to the vibration resistance you mentioned, our batteries are designed to last up to twice as long as traditional flooded batteries. That doesn't mean they are the best choice for every application, especially if someone can't get more than a few years out of a battery, no what kind they buy. In those cases, buying the cheapest battery with the longest warranty and most-liberal return policy might be a better choice.


Jim McIlvaine
eCare Manager, OPTIMA Batteries, Inc.
www.twitter.com/optimabatteries
 
RWKHausSupply, what kind of draw are you dealing with in your XJ? With the accessories you mentioned- parker pumper, race radio, trans fan, radiator fan, lights, etc... you would probably be better-served by a battery designed for deep-cycle use, like our YellowTop.
www.twitter.com/optimabatteries

Thank you for taking the time for the long fingered reply to all.

As for my current draw, I can only guess at the moment.
Parker - 5amp
Trans fan - 7amp
Rad fan - 10amp
Race radio - reciving - 1amp, trans - 10amp
ECU - 10amp
Fuel Pump - 2amp
Misc gauge and daytime stuff - 3amp
Intercom - 3amp
HID Head, LED tail & amber (req while engine on) - 7amp

So all on - 57amp in worst case.
alt is a 65amp
engine is running at about 2k-4k so alt I would think is at rated output as needed.

The batt would crank the engine over just fine. But that draw would have a effect enough to not allow the ECU to see suffiecent voltage to fire up.

a buddy gave me a red top that was only about a yr old and said it was toast, he tried to charge it and no good.

Well I have a nice digital programable charger that has all the settings and one is for AGM. I tried to charge it (he gave it to me for a spare if I could use it), and after trying from I think it was feb 25th till about march 10th. it proved to be bad.

I will say, I took it down to my local autoparts store and they did try also and after a few days they gave me a new one in its place. SO now I have 2 red tops, and I still am not at all in a warm and fuzzy place, when it comes to my battery in my Jeep. I need to cut apart / out my opt mount (ruffstuff box) and either mount the 2 one next to it and isolate, or install a different box for a different battery.
 
I couldn't begin to tell you what size alternator you should have, given your electrical demands, but I do know most alternators rarely operate anywhere near their maximum rated output. As I mentioned, fully-charged, your RedTop should measure about 12.6-12.8 volts. If you measure voltage before and after a race, it should give you an indication of whether your charging system is keeping pace with your demand. If your voltage is lower after a race, the charging system was not able to keep up with your demand and reserve battery power was needed. Likewise, you can also perform a basic parasitic draw test, to see if there is anything discharging the battery when the engine is off.

Jim McIlvaine
eCare Manager, OPTIMA Batteries, Inc.
www.twitter.com/optimabatteries
 
Has anyone had any experience with the Optima 1200 charger?

I have not had any trouble with either of my 2 red tops and looking to get a yellow top for another car in my mini fleet. I noticed Optima is running a promotion, if you buy a battery and the charger they add a year to your warranty. With battery warranties fading fast recently this is tempting me. I like keeping a tender hooked up since some times things sit for weeks/month at a time.

It is certainly a pricey battery charger/handler though at 200 bucks. I think my Battery Tender Plus was around 40 bucks, the same company also offers a 4 bank model for around $140. Those prices sure make the $200 optima charger seem very very pricey. If it can restore batteries the way they claim though, with as many batteries as I (will)have it might pay off plus the full year added to the warranty.

Looking for thoughts or experience with the 1200 in particular not other tenders, I know my Tender Plus does an ok job.
 
We have been working on trying to get one for our store so we can demo/use it, but no luck yet. Would like to get some experience with one though.

Has anyone had any experience with the Optima 1200 charger?

I have not had any trouble with either of my 2 red tops and looking to get a yellow top for another car in my mini fleet. I noticed Optima is running a promotion, if you buy a battery and the charger they add a year to your warranty. With battery warranties fading fast recently this is tempting me. I like keeping a tender hooked up since some times things sit for weeks/month at a time.

It is certainly a pricey battery charger/handler though at 200 bucks. I think my Battery Tender Plus was around 40 bucks, the same company also offers a 4 bank model for around $140. Those prices sure make the $200 optima charger seem very very pricey. If it can restore batteries the way they claim though, with as many batteries as I (will)have it might pay off plus the full year added to the warranty.

Looking for thoughts or experience with the 1200 in particular not other tenders, I know my Tender Plus does an ok job.
 
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