onboard compressor. quick question

[Shea454]

X2!! More specs on the Dak.

i narrowed the axle 3 " on both sides to tuck the tire when layed out.

this is my personal experience with OBA...

i have a 8ga wire running to my relays
18ga wire that powers my relays through a switch with inline fuse
10ga from relay to compressor with inline fuse


i have the viair 480's. viair is a very good company, i used to have the 450's and beat the shit out of them....rated at 150psi and i always took them over that.

u can NEVER have enough fittings. i have a tool box drawer full of them, and they aint cheep. you can buy an "air ride kit" ...but most likely the "kit" wont have everything you need, manliy fittings.

i get most of my air parts from
http://www.suicidedoors.com/front_page
http://gravity-werx.com/
http://www.airridefittings.com/store/index.php


not trying to jack the thread, just telling you my experience with air

 

[SanDiegoOverland]

good point, firefighter.

I used to rock a viair(got stolen with my last rig), and will probably get another soon, but for now I'm using an mv-50 style compressor. Not sure of the exact type, or where it was bought, as I got it in trade for some parts.

i'm not expecting it to run THAT hot or noisy. I've heard/seen them run and they're comparitively quiet.

Thanks!,
Brian

 

[kastein]

I never buy fittings from a specialty store, I just wander into the plumbing and HVAC aisles at Home Depot and figure out what I need.

 

[Shea454]

ive been to homedepot,lowes,tractor supply, and local hardware stores and could not find the fittings im looking for. you might find some stuff but, my application for airbags....i need quality parts. i dont want a quick disconnect blowing out on me while driving.

but yes i do agree with you, u can find brass fittings at hardware stores :sunshine:

 

[Goatman]

Here is a simple pressure switch from Sun Performance, very inexpensive. I mount a brass T off the compressor, with the switch on one side and a quick disconnect fitting on the other side of the T. The switch is cheap and simple enough that there's no reason to not run one. Also, if all you do is air up tires, there's no need for a tank.

http://sunperformance.com/?page_id=121

 

[RenoXJ]

This is great advice, but I must have mis-stated. I have a supply of new power cable. They're traditionally used for power cords. The lengths are LONG, 6ft being the shortest, 10-15ft being the longest.

This would be one long 3 wire, 12g bundle, about .5" in diameter. Not several smaller lengths spliced...

my fault for being unclear, sorry.

Is this household "solid copper" wire or "stranded" wire?

 

[SanDiegoOverland]

Is this household "solid copper" wire or "stranded" wire?

huh? lol...

the cable was used to repair large power equipment, gen-sets, power washers, etc....

 

[kastein]

Extension cord cabling is going to be fine-strand stranded wire - nowhere near as fine strands as welding cable (the best for stuff like this) but fine enough to not be difficult to work with and stress/fatigue fracture from vibration.

 

[4.3LXJ]

I'm not planning on running a tank at this time, and was thinking of putting a pressure switch in-line between the compressor and the hose quck-disconnect fitting.

Will that be sufficient for now?

You guys bring up some good points, I think I'll research some of the installs on the board a bit more and probably come back with some more questions...

If you are going to use this compressor in any way except hooking it up to something directly and then turning it on, then you need a pressure switch and a tank. If you don't have the tank, then it will short cycle and cause the motor to get hot and it will not last very long. I'm sure you want to save money, but not running a tank will cost you in the long run, not to mention limit your usability.

As far a wiring, get some 10 ga wire from any parts store. It only costs a few bucks

 

[RenoXJ]

huh? lol...

the cable was used to repair large power equipment, gen-sets, power washers, etc....

Well like the stuff you wire a house with (12-3 romex, 10-3, 12-4) is all solid copper wire. I was wondering if thats what you were using. .

 

[Goatman]

If you are going to use this compressor in any way except hooking it up to something directly and then turning it on, then you need a pressure switch and a tank. If you don't have the tank, then it will short cycle and cause the motor to get hot and it will not last very long. I'm sure you want to save money, but not running a tank will cost you in the long run, not to mention limit your usability.

Sorry, but this isn't true. When the air line fills up the compressor will shut off. If there isn't a leak, it won't short cycle. If it does short cycle, what difference does it make anyway? Heat comes from long cycles that go over the duty cycle, a few short cycles because there's a leak in the connceted air line mean nothing in the relatively short time you're using the air and have the pump turned on.

Most of us don't run tanks, many of us did run tanks and got rid of them because they aren't needed. Most use air to fill up tires, and the short few second burst you get into the first tire from the tank is meaningless in the overall time it takes to air up the tires. If you run air tools, then maybe a tank is good, but the few minutes that air tools save in a trail repair isn't worth the weight of carrying them.

Nearly everyone that I wheel with has a compressor, none of us have tanks. But, you do need a pressure switch no matter what. If you are airing up a tire and don't have a pressure switch then someone needs to stand there and switch the compressor on and off when the air chuck is hooked and unhooked to the tire.

 

[fyrfytr1717]

ive been to homedepot,lowes,tractor supply, and local hardware stores and could not find the fittings im looking for. you might find some stuff but, my application for airbags....i need quality parts. i dont want a quick disconnect blowing out on me while driving.

but yes i do agree with you, u can find brass fittings at hardware stores :sunshine:

Check out Midland Metal. They are an industrial supplier so you don't get the "Air Suspension Parts" markup you'd get from a specialty store. They carry all the good stuff, including all-brass DOT approved push connect fittings (if that's what you're after). They are a distributor only, but you can purchase their products through EVCO House of Hose. Their website has changed since I placed my order and seems to be a little more difficult to navigate now, but if you call them up with part #'s from Midland Metal (or just tell them what you're looking for) they should be able to get you everything you need.

 

[4.3LXJ]

Sorry, but this isn't true. When the air line fills up the compressor will shut off. If there isn't a leak, it won't short cycle. If it does short cycle, what difference does it make anyway? Heat comes from long cycles that go over the duty cycle, a few short cycles because there's a leak in the connceted air line mean nothing in the relatively short time you're using the air and have the pump turned on.

Most of us don't run tanks, many of us did run tanks and got rid of them because they aren't needed. Most use air to fill up tires, and the short few second burst you get into the first tire from the tank is meaningless in the overall time it takes to air up the tires. If you run air tools, then maybe a tank is good, but the few minutes that air tools save in a trail repair isn't worth the weight of carrying them.

Nearly everyone that I wheel with has a compressor, none of us have tanks. But, you do need a pressure switch no matter what. If you are airing up a tire and don't have a pressure switch then someone needs to stand there and switch the compressor on and off when the air chuck is hooked and unhooked to the tire.

I guess I am a little confused by what you said here. You say you just let the compressor run till it shuts off, but you should also run a pressure switch. So are you just letting your compressor run till the motor gets overwhelmed, or is there a built in pressure switch. If there isn't, I will stand by what I said about electric motor heat and premature failure, which is what I was referring to. Any time any motor starts up, it draws more power and more heat into it. You may wheel without a tank for your compressor, but not me even though mine is not electric.

 

[zr2toxj]

I bought most of my fittings at discount hydraulics.

http://www.discounthydraulichose.com/

They have the push-in fittings and I really liked the mini ball valves so I could isolate the line to the front bumper air chuck.

They have a lot of stuff on there. I only had a problem with one reducer, but I think I just over tightened it & it split.