oil pump & vasaline

[retard_ed_1]

no im not talking about my friday nights,

i heard you are suppost to put vasaline in the oil pump to prime it, is this true? and where do ya put it?
:huh:

 

[Dr. Dyno]

The 4.0 oil pump doesn't need to be primed with Vaseline. Just disconnect the coil lead from the cap and crank the engine over without actually starting it. That'll prime the pump.

 

[retard_ed_1]

good that just spares me the laughs when the guys come over and see me in the garage with a stripped down motor and a jar of vasaline

 

[RichP]

You open the pump up and just fill the gears with vasoline, squish it in there, then put the pump back together. The vasoline keeps the pump from air binding and not doing what it's supposed to do.
If you dont want to do that then when you get everything back together remove the distributor and put a long flat bladed screwdriver down there chucked into a drill and spin it up that way.
Personally I don't like to disturb things that don't need disturbing. If you do pop the dist MARK IT so your next post is 'won't start but I got spark and fuel'...

 

[Sarge]

The 4.0 oil pump doesn't need to be primed with Vaseline. Just disconnect the coil lead from the cap and crank the engine over without actually starting it. That'll prime the pump.

That'll work on a lot of motors but it's not a method I'm a fan of. No oil in the motor and we've got the motor spinning. Metal on metal. I prefer the one RichP speaks of with the screwdriver. I cut the handle off one and chuck it in a drill. Run it for 5-10 minutes or so before starting for the first time and oil is thru-out the motor. Not enough to pump lifters up but enough to cushion the metal to metal. But then you probably built more motors than I so maybe your idea is a proven one. In which case, OK.

Sarge

 

[Eagle]

I have never assembled an engine or replaced an oil pump without packing the pump with Vaseline for a prime. The 4.0L may not need it, but I agree with Sarge. I wouldn't want to be cranking the engine dry even for the time it takes to pick up a prime. In fact, even after packing I take a large straight-bladed screwdriver with the handle chopped off, chuck it into an electric drill, and spin the oil pump manually to bring up pressure and catch the prime before I even crank the engine over.

 

[burntkat]

Sarge and Eagle are spot-on on this one. No sense spinning over a dry motor...

 

[Muad'Dib]

I know this is a OLD thread but i couldn't resist...

Got Vaseline?

Quick question too. When i put the cover back on, it squished some of the good ole petroleum out a bit. Is this going to cause some integrity issues with the gasket?

 

[Muad'Dib]

Quick question too. When i put the cover back on, it squished some of the good ole petroleum out a bit. Is this going to cause some integrity issues with the gasket?

Anyone?

 

[techno1154]

In the 80' I workedn as a marine mechanic and rebuilt 100's of engines both gasoline and diesels. I have never nor have I ever heard of an oil pump being packed with vasoline. That is a new one. One never stop learning.

I usually prime the pump with a few ounces of oil and turn it by hand before installing it in the block. When every thing is assembled and just before the starter is engaged, I will slip in a modified distributer with a drill on the end and run it until the oil guage shows at least 20 psi of oil.

Of cource I have used the long screw driver sucessfully, only one cannot turn it fast enough for the oil guage to move from the '0' mark.

 

[Muad'Dib]

I'm sorry for bumping this thread, but does anyone have an answer to my question? I'm going to swap this out tomorrow and want to make sure i don't jeopardize the integrity of the gasket for the cap / cover.

 

[RCP Phx]

In the 80' I workedn as a marine mechanic and rebuilt 100's of engines both gasoline and diesels. I have never nor have I ever heard of an oil pump being packed with vasoline. That is a new one. One never stop learning.

I usually prime the pump with a few ounces of oil and turn it by hand before installing it in the block. When every thing is assembled and just before the starter is engaged, I will slip in a modified distributer with a drill on the end and run it until the oil guage shows at least 20 psi of oil.

Of cource I have used the long screw driver sucessfully, only one cannot turn it fast enough for the oil guage to move from the '0' mark.

X a million.There is no way to know how many motors Ive done,at one point in time I (My shop) was putting out 3 a day.Spinning them up(the oil pump) until you read full pressure is the proper method.I still use something in the pump but its never made a difference on what(oil,grease,etc)!

 

[nick86]

I'm sorry for bumping this thread, but does anyone have an answer to my question? I'm going to swap this out tomorrow and want to make sure i don't jeopardize the integrity of the gasket for the cap / cover.

You will be fine, it will prime right up & mix up with the oil. Gasket will be fine

 

[wolfpackjeeper]

I primed mine with a 8" flathead drill bit I got from harbor freight. Worked great.

I coated every moving part with assembly lube, more than enough, so I did not really worry about it when I started it anyway

 

[5-90]

Anyone?

No trouble. The gasket runs in an oil bath, the torque on those screws is agreeably low (70-75 pound-inches, methinks? It's listed on my site) and soaking the gasket like that will usually help it seal anyhow.

 

[sjkimmel99]

Do what Techno1154 and RCP Phx say. Get an old distributor - go to the junk yard and get one from any inline 6 or 4 AMC or Jeep motor (take the good one with you and compare - the oil pump end and collar diameter should be the same, doesn't matter what the top half looks like.) The pre-electronic ignition points based distributors will sell for a few bucks. Knock the roll pin out that holds the cam gear on the shaft of the distributor and slide the gear off. remove any plates or other junk that gets in the way of putting the top part of the shaft in a drill. You should now have just the cast base of the distributor with the shaft running through it.

Turn down the top of the shaft till you can stick it in your drill chuck. One way (not the greatest way) is to chuck the oil pump end of the shaft in a drill and use a file on the top end while the shaft is turning.

Now you're ready to prime the engine. A bigger drill is better - 1/2" is good, when the pump is full it takes some effort to keep it turning. Run it for a few minutes and you should be good to go.

 

[B.RAIDER]

IQuick question too. When i put the cover back on, it squished some of the good ole petroleum out a bit. Is this going to cause some integrity issues with the gasket?

A few caught it ......a few didn't...... I think this is his real question.:greensmok

 

[5-90]

A few caught it ......a few didn't...... I think this is his real question.:greensmok

Didn't I answer that in Post #15?

Oh - and see if you can find a Small Block Chevvy priming rod with a removable sleeve over the drive end. It will work neatly (it will probably work with the sleeve in place, but I know it will work without it. I have two in the toolbox, and it's easier than chopping up a screwdriver and grinding the end down to fit the chuck. Fits the oil pump better, too!)

 

[nick86]

What is this TARD night, We have answered the ?. No more needs to be said.

 

[B.RAIDER]

Didn't I answer that in Post #15?

Yup.......LOL