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Oil pressure sending unit

Different filter construction, different media, etc. What aren't you grasping? If you want data on such as the flow rates of the different medias used, find it yourself.

If u don't like my questions/responses, why don't u just move on.....or can u not grasp that?
 
I cannot say for sure why a better filter gives better oil pressure, but a couple of possible reasons come to mind. One is that when a filter clogs and bypasses, pressure drops, so obviously a filter that does not clog will work better longer. The better filters have many more pleats, meaning much more working area, than the cheap ones, and thus do not clog so soon.

I suspect there also is simply a different, and better, medium of filtration in some, and that fineness is not the whole story. I have not studied the filter media, though I did cut open a bunch of filters some years ago. Most looked similar, but the media themselves were clearly different, with the best not only having more pleats but what appeared to be a more solid material. The one exception was K&N, whose filter medium was entirely different from the others, harder and less papery.

Whatever the science, when I was putting a lot of miles on my 87 I went through a lot of filters, and analyzed several. I settled on Wix as the best bargain in good filters, and have almost never bought anything else in the half million or so miles that have followed,, except when they could not be found, and I got Bosch or NAPA gold instead.

Who knows what might have occurred otherwise, but I have taken several XJ's well over the 250 thousand mile mark with utterly no internal engine problems, and in the process maybe spent 40 bucks more on Wix filters than I would have on cheaper ones.

Thanks.
 
I started the thread, why should I move on. R u a mod, telling me to move on? Why?

I would like to hear more info from others. It just seems to me that finer filter media with more pleats would lower pressure on the back side of the media, where the sending unit is located.
 
My bad, I now know where the pressure sending unit is in relation to the oil filter. The FSM was unclear as to the sending unit location in the lubrication flow diagram. My apology for wasting the Forum's time.

Would still like to hear from others, presuming the thread isn't closed due to my ignorance.
 
I started the thread, why should I move on. R u a mod, telling me to move on? Why?

I would like to hear more info from others. It just seems to me that finer filter media with more pleats would lower pressure on the back side of the media, where the sending unit is located.
Well, if you think about it, more pleats, amounting to more surface area, will allow more flow, because there will be more little holes in total for the oil to go through, and the more there are, the smaller they can be.

Imagine a pot with a half dozen quarter inch holes drilled in it. Next to it is a pot with 1/16 inch holes in it, but there are three dozen. Which do you think will drain faster? 6 quarters, or 36 sixteenths?
 
Let me rephrase the question......why/how would 2 new but different brands of oil filters change oil pressure? Let's presume the motor is in top notch condition, same brand/weight oil used, oil at operating temp, no bypasses open, everything remains the same except for the 2 different oil filters. Valid data would be preferable over opinions.

Opinion is all you get, unless you can find an engineer or buy a number of filters and test them yourself.

http://www.dailymotion.com/video/xyg5ix_engine-oil-pressure-relief-valve_auto
 
A fully scientific test of filters might be difficult with an Xj 4.0, simply because the engine is so good that even with a crappy filter it will probably outlast the car.

Interestingly, not long ago I was at a Volvo dealer. At their service desk they had a set of cut-open oil filters, to make the point that you should buy their premium ones. They actually had three. Theirs, a cheap one, and a Wix. They recommended either theirs or Wix.

The object here, as far as I'm concerned, is not to imagine that you can do magically better than good enough, but to find the cheapest reasonable way to remove the filter from the failure equation. You can get a Wix or Bosch filter from a local auto parts store for less than you pay for a fancy Fram at Walmart. For something like 6 bucks a pop you can be sure that your filter will not be the weak link, and if your engine fails, this will not be why. How much time will you fritter away on the finer points?
 
I wouldn't take tayln's contributions on this subject for granted...
I think debating this subject is a waste of time, its been figured out and documented, numerous times, by people much smarter and better equiped than you or I. Especially if you cant grasp basic concepts like pushing X amount of fluid thru Y square inches, will result in variable pressures, depending on Y. Shits complicated, allmost everything matters.

Beleiving/understanding gravity, without doing extreme personal tests to verify, is not ignorant. Pillars of knowledge need not be rebuilt everyday, life is soo short to waste time figuring out how to breath.

Reminds me of a joke about taking a butchers word for it...
 
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