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Oil Pressure Issue?

axshon

NAXJA Forum User
Location
MD
2000 Sport, 4.0, Auto, np231, 69,500 miles

So I found out after doing a bit of research on the stickers on my Jeep that it was a delivery vehicle in NYC. Turns out this may be important. I'm thinking lots of hard takeoffs on a cold engine and ALL city driving for the first 3 years of its life. After that, the guy I bought it from commuted between NYC and DC. That's as much background as I can give on the beast.

So, being paranoid and sitting in DC traffic I had the windows down against a jersey wall a few days this week, listening to the motor. On hard takeoff I get a little of what I originally thought was spark-knock. From being on the throttle and then letting off I get about half a second of the same noise. Couldn't climb out and figure out whether it was coming from the top or bottom end of the motor on the freeway.

Maybe related but maybe not: I replaced the serpentine belt and torqued it to spec two weeks ago but when the engine is cold and I turn the defroster on (AC kicks on) I get a squeak, squeak, squeak from the engine bay. This goes away when the engine is warm. I think I nailed that down to the AC compressor. Watching craigs list for one of those, just in case it goes hairy splat on me.

So final straw: On the way home tonight, I get an idiot light saying Check Guages. I do. Oil pressure reads zero! Knocking is happening. Put her in neutral and rev just a tiny bit and the pressure jumps back to between 10 and 20 when I get to 1500 rpm. Let off the throttle and it slowly goes back down to nuthin. Cold oil pressure is a hair over 40 by the dash guage.

So my question is: Am I going to spin a bearing or send a rod through the block? I'll be changing the oil this weekend and putting on a new filter, anything but Fram from what I read here. It's not a Fram right now. The plan was 10w30 oil unless somebody here says different. I'll also pull the oil pressure sending unit and make sure it's undamaged and cleaned. My real concern though is the short block. I sold the previous vehicle because it started cutting out on the highway and because I had such great experiences with Jeep 4.0's in the past. The wife is going to throw a rod if I have to pull the bottom end and change the bearings in the yard. Can you do the bearing business without pulling the motor on a Jeep?

Thanks in advance, Jim
 
i dont remember the year, but there has been cases of cam bearings spinning. you need to check the oil pressure with a mechanical gauge. if it drops to zero, i would probably say the motor is going.
 
Before totally freaking, check w/mechanical gauge or at least change out the oil sender (AKA oil switch) as they go bad frequently. :patriot:

Best of luck!! :cheers:
 
Do all of the above first, Oil senders & the connections are notorious for giving false readings!
If your readings of near "0" PSI at Hot idle are correct, Change the oil & use a premium filter with 15-50 weight oil. It should restore oil pressure to an acceptable (13PSI min hot oil at idle is jeep min spec.) level for a while.
I have one buddy who did this & got 70K additional miles before he needed a rebuild.
Good luck!
 
For the squeeling, check the tension on the belt again. Mine did the same thing for about 2 years...it would squeel when I first turned on the AC when the engine was cold, or had gotten hot and sat for a while. I loosened the belt, and tightened it back up and now there's no more squeeling.
 
So I dumped in some oil system cleaner and ran it for the rec 3 minutes. Dumped it, pulled the filter and checked the oil pressure sending unit connections. Connector is clean. Should I have pulled the entire unit off? Put on a Purolature PureONE filter and 10w30 oil. Ran it for about 45 minutes and the knock is definitely less than it was before. At idle and in gear the pressure by the dash guage now reads 10. I think that's probably in the error range of the stock unit. Perhaps I dodged the bullet but time will tell. I'll take her into DC on Tuesday for work and see how she does on the stop-n-go homeward drip where I'm against the jersey walls and can really hear the motor.

Thanks for the advise.

JJ
 
I might be wrong, heck for your sake I hope I am, but I think your motor is on its way out. You might limp it a few more miles, maybe a lot more, but it sure sounds like your oil pump is either weak or stopped up and your engine is oil starved. I'd be saving up for a stroker.
 
Dude....Honestly : http://www.partsamerica.com/productdetail.aspx?MfrCode=BOR&MfrPartNumber=S4191&PartType=417&PTSet=A :cheers:

axshon said:
So I dumped in some oil system cleaner and ran it for the rec 3 minutes. Dumped it, pulled the filter and checked the oil pressure sending unit connections. Connector is clean. Should I have pulled the entire unit off? Put on a Purolature PureONE filter and 10w30 oil. Ran it for about 45 minutes and the knock is definitely less than it was before. At idle and in gear the pressure by the dash guage now reads 10. I think that's probably in the error range of the stock unit. Perhaps I dodged the bullet but time will tell. I'll take her into DC on Tuesday for work and see how she does on the stop-n-go homeward drip where I'm against the jersey walls and can really hear the motor.

Thanks for the advise.

JJ
 
Ok, so the oil pressure sensor is on the way. Goes in next weekend.

Next question. If someone can point me to other threads, that's cool too. I'll search in a few minutes...

I've swapped out engines before. It's always fun (not!) but usually worth while if you've got a strong body and solid drive train. I think I have those. I know I can get a 4.0L either cheap or free from folks around here. I can sure as heck get one for less than $300 and then do a rebuild in my little shop. Done that too and I'm not too worried about it.

What I am worried about is finding a 4.0 from a 2000 in my price range. After that, if I'm still using the motor that has a head that's prone to cracking, I'm back where I started.

So what 4.0L will work in my 2000 (distributorless) as a direct swap? I'll strip both down and put everything from my Jeep onto the new motor. Does it have to be a Cherokee or can it come from a Grand? Does it have to have the distributorless ignition or are the bolt up points for all the attached junk the same?

Perhaps I should just sell it and find another...

Thanks.

Jim (gonna start REALLY babying the old girl now).
 
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