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O2 sensor won't budge.

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Recent studies have shown that more Jeeps get repaired out in the driveway with tools and effort versus prognosticaticating with a keyboard and monitor.

:repair:
 
I think a lot of us would have been dead or missing limbs a long time ago.

I think many of us forget how easy it is get injured doing this work. While I have enough experience to have avoided injuries for a long long time now, busted knuckles, bruises, and cuts are still pretty common. I had a brace /prop come loose and drop a glass door window on my hand 40 years ago. Took 7 stitches. I know some of use here have been hurt a lot worse, so do not belittle the dangers to newbies here please.

I have also seen a battery explode in someones face just jumping a car battery!
 
Recent studies have shown that more Jeeps get repaired out in the driveway with tools and effort versus prognosticaticating with a keyboard and monitor.

:repair:

Alright now, now ya gone too far, You callin me a procrastinator MR?

LMAO!!!!

I invented that word!!!!

Statistics also show that marriage is the major cause of divorce!!!!

:laugh:
 
Alright now, now ya gone too far, You callin me a procrastinator MR?

LMAO!!!!

I invented that word!!!!

Statistics also show that marriage is the major cause of divorce!!!!

:laugh:

Not procrastinator..prognosticator. Pontificator. You get the point.

Put the old kwiutus on that sensor and it will come right out.
 
Recent studies have shown that more Jeeps get repaired out in the driveway with tools and effort versus prognosticaticating with a keyboard and monitor.

:repair:

So, since we are talking about changing difficult parts, I have a question. How many Psychiatrists does it take to change a light bulb?
 
Not procrastinator..prognosticator. Pontificator. You get the point.

Put the old kwiutus on that sensor and it will come right out.

God I need new glasses. And my large monitor back.
 
First make sure your O2 sensor is actually the reason you are getting crummy gas mileage.

I suggest the use of an oscilloscope and long set of leads while driving. You may need two people to help, one to drive and one to use the oscilloscope.

Also, heating the crap out of the sensor and bung, then spraying cold water on ONLY the sensor may shrink it away from the bung fast enough to crack the rust bond.
 
kastein, thanks. I don't want to test the O2 sensor because for $42 and 125k miles on the original, I rather just replace it.
One reason I bought this XJ was to do small projects and learn more about cars.
Even though the XJ runs perfectly, barring that whole 8mpg thing, I want to replace parts, even if they're not dead yet. O2, radiator, starter, alternator, tune-up.
I just had no idea how hard O2's are on an XJ compared to easier to work on cars..

I will try the O2 once more after 3 days of PB and during the cool down cycle.
What part do you put the water on? Everything above the 22mm bolt area? The sudden coolness should transfer down to the threads on the base?
images


Otherwise, I talked to the local mechanic who has a torch and lift, and said he would do it this weekend.
While it's there, I might have him install my valve cover gasket as well.

Testing an O2 sensor
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QM2jO0_Cah0
 
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Geez. Every oxygen sensor in the world has the same threads and screws into an exhaust manifold/bung of every car/truck/SUV equipped with one. . Nothing tough about it.
 
You need to motivate yourself to get shit done, instead of coming online to ask questions.' Learn a 'can-do' attitude.

Ask yourself "what kind of bitch cant change an o2 sensor?", thats what i do. Im not calling you a bitch, we've all had repairs that seemed impossible, but you gotta get thru that shit. You mention not being able to get a breaker bar down there.... TRY HARDER, for example, jack the front end up and put it on jack stands. BAM, instand extra 6" of clearance.
 
Some things cannot be learned or taught. In order to do any kind of manual labor (auto, woodwork, etc) you need to be a bit bull headed when necessary.
 
I don't want to test the O2 sensor because for $42 and 125k miles on the original, I rather just replace it.

I can't argue with your plan on this, O2 sensors begin slowing down long before they are bad enough to throw any codes. This will continue to deplet your mileage until you fix it.

I just had no idea how hard O2's are on an XJ compared to easier to work on cars..

what cars have YOU changed an O2 sensor that worked out "easier" I'm asking because I don't really don't know of many that are much easier to access (once you're under it with the right tools) or any "stucker" that the ones on a heep [given the same number of miles, same roar treatments (salt), and the same level of competency from the person doing the work]
 
I can only think of one car that's easier to remove the o2 sensor from. Early 90s Toyota pickups have a sensor that's bolted into a flange with one bolt on either side of the sensor tip... the sensor comes out easy.

The broken off stubs of the two bolts though? Not so easy.

I'll take the XJ/regular domestic vehicle thread-in sensor style, thanks.
 
BMW sensor is accessed from the engine bay, right at the start of the exhaust manifold.
Came right out after 125k. Perfect car for non-mechanics and kids learning to work on cars.

You mention not being able to get a breaker bar down there....
TRY HARDER, for example, jack the front end up and put it on jack stands. BAM, instand extra 6" of clearance.

Actually, I spent a few hours researching how to jack up an XJ, but even this is more complex than a normal car. I got busy and have forgot to follow up on that.
In a normal car like a BMW or Nissan, you just jack up from the center jack block, and stick the jack stands on the rocker panel jack point. Easy peasy...

On XJ's, it's a different story. Rather, 100 different stories. There is no jack block, so now it gets complicated (and dangerous!)

From what I understand, the best way is to jack up the front ...is using the axle tube and then putting jack stands at the jack point area behind the front rocker area.
However, I really don't feel safe jacking up a cylindrical axle on a flat jack plate. Car can just roll off while jacking it up. Screw that.
Do you need a special jack adapter to jack up a round surface?

The other method would be to jack up the car at the side jack point area.
But, that would leave no room to place the jack stand, b/c the jack is already in the way in the jack point area.

The 3rd way, you can jack from the side jack point and use the jack stands on the axle itself.
There is no way in hell I am resting the entire car on the rounded axles, then getting under the car and yanking on the car with a breaker bar.
Car could roll right off! I might look into buying new jack stands that have some sort of deep "U" shape that I can put sideways and rest the axle properly across.

Can anyone advise the right method? Until I figure out how to jack up an XJ, anything involving jacking the XJ will be sent right to a qualified professional with a lift, where it belongs! Better safe than sorry.
Maybe there is a write up with pictures out there, but I doubt it. That's why it really pays to learn this stuff in a trade school or with some wacky uncle this has done this crap for 50 years.
 
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Christ Bimmer, seriously? Have you even seen the chart with the multiple jack points for jeeps??
 
Go back to BMWs then.

Personally I cant stand working on those overpriced, poorly designed bavarian manure wagons.

I'll go back in April. It's in storage for the winter.
Overpriced? They are actually cheaper than XJs.
 
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