no-slip locking right???

[johnnyc]

Just for the hell of it...check the air pressure in your rear tires. Make sure they're the same.

 

[Ramsey]

goodpoint les, i didnt see where he said it was done professionally. definetly dont touch it

 

[J98cherokee]

Ya im calling the place tomorrow...the guy i took it to really knows what hes doing so it suprises me that its messed up, although he didnt do it someone who works there but anyways they all seem to know what there doing ha...o and the air pressure was checked when it was test drove at the shop, he said it was alittle "too tight" then he wanted like it wasnt locking up for a bit after he starting driving straight but he said give it some time see what happens with it it might just be the new bearings put in. guess not...

 

[Rawbrown]

WOW, I think I have heard that story a few times now. I did it myself when I rebuilt my no-slip. Yes the installer messed up. he installed the left half correctly, but he screwed up when he installed the right half and put the side gear in 180º out. light driving around it feels fine. but the first time hard on the throttle and it breaks the tab off the active spacer on the right side. then it stays totally disengaged on the pass side.
I ran a noslip for over 4 years in my 27 spline 8.25. rebuilt it once with new springs. allways ran 90wt dino. put about 50k thou on it. sold it for $150 and its still going strong.
honestly, I have simply never seen the need to put 140wt in my rear... I Equate it to running 50wt in my engine.

 

[Ramsey]

without yelling at me :laugh3: is there any mechanical reasons to run the lighter over the heavy, or is it just in your experience that the lighter is plenty sufficient. also do you see any downsides to running the heavier?

 

[Rawbrown]

I do see a valid point to Remi's argument of running 140wt in the no-slip. it slows down the "rattling" being a thicker substrate. I would have to say that fuel economy and rear wheel horsepower would be the two major arguements between the two wt's. I will honestly admitt that I have no real world data to back this up so I will leave it that its my speculation based on my experiences that our little XJ's do just fine with 90wt.
plus this is turning into another thread. ok, time for another bit of mocha almond fudge.... :lecture:

 

[Ramsey]

i say its time for bed.

your saying mpg and hp are decreased by the heavier oil? never had heard of this before. i only run it to keep things quieter

 

[Rawbrown]

tell me you haven't heard of racers running lightweight oil in there motors to gain extra tenths at the track? You don't believe that a thicker oil can slow you down? Then why doesn't the MFG simply recomend the heavier oil in the first place? why is it only recomended for vehicles that do alot of towing?

 

[NorStar]

tell me you haven't heard of racers running lightweight oil in there motors to gain extra tenths at the track? You don't believe that a thicker oil can slow you down?

Here you go. Cut/Past from http://www.worldsbestoil.ca/which-30-weight-oil.php

...many national racing teams use the 0W-30 for the qualifying event, then they change to the AMSOIL 20W-50 Racing Oil for the race. The extra horsepower and friction reduction from the 0W-30 often assists a race driver in attaining a better starting position....

 

[Kejtar]

Here you go. Cut/Past from http://www.worldsbestoil.ca/which-30-weight-oil.php

...many national racing teams use the 0W-30 for the qualifying event, then they change to the AMSOIL 20W-50 Racing Oil for the race. The extra horsepower and friction reduction from the 0W-30 often assists a race driver in attaining a better starting position....

yeah, but how often do they rebuild?

 

[NorStar]

yeah, but how often do they rebuild?

Understood. But they also run their engines close to redline.

The statement was for Ramsey's comment

your saying mpg and hp are decreased by the heavier oil?

 

[Ramsey]

i had never heard of that but it does make sense

 

[MudDawg]

I picked up 8 hundreths consistently on my dragbike by switching from 20-50 conventional oil to 5-30 mobil 1. The wear rates are the same or better.

I tried heavy weight lube in the heep. My rear no-slip made more noise than normal...swapped out to light weight synth and the problem went away.

 

[tazz]

Well wouldn't 75W140 synthetic be a bit thinner that 80W90 conventional?
First Synthetic flows better than conventional dose it not?
This quote kinda get's some of the point I have across that I just don't have the right words for but you kinda know what I'm getting at.

"A straight SAE 5W oil is suitable for low temperature applications, but thins readily as the temperature increases. On the other hand, a straight SAE 30 is suitable for high temperature applications, but thickens when the temperature decreases. A 5W-30 would thicken and thin less in temperature extremes and would thus be more suitable to the average motorist because it remains in a useable viscosity range for a greater ambient temperature range."

 

[J98cherokee]

So overall whats a decent oil to run?? What works alright?

 

[Rawbrown]

personally like Royal Purples 75-90 Max Gear. and That is what I Recomend for a Daily driver type trail rig. I only go with the 140 if it is recomended by the factory or the vehicle will see a lot of hard work like towing. I run a Detroit rear, no-slip front. both are silent. I also have RP ATF in my T-case and it shifts smoothly. oh yeah, its also in the Motor. all rearends that I build get dyno 80-90w for breakin and even normal changes.

 

[Twisted Copper]

It seems to me rather silly to use a lighter oil that may be more efficient to the degree of "extra tenths". It's a Jeep, not a stock car, rice rocket or dragster. I doubt the difference would add up to any significant savings as to fuel cost or to any noticeable gains in power.

If a heavier weight is recommended for towing, then adding a locker and going wheeling, at least in my book, would warrant a heavier oil. If it quiets it down that only adds to the logic. Less noise from a mechanical device is a good thing.

 

[J98cherokee]

Well...im doing this locker myself now since the last one was "faulty" so ive got to pull the bad locker out of the rear but the problem is the c-clip in the passengers side. Its pretty deep in there. I know I will have to pull the other side off first but its all tight in there does anyone have a good suggestion??

Im worried my next locker is going to come wrong too... I heard that richmond has been sending out a good few of these??

 

[Jeepsterboy101]

Well...im doing this locker myself now since the last one was "faulty" so ive got to pull the bad locker out of the rear but the problem is the c-clip in the passengers side. Its pretty deep in there. I know I will have to pull the other side off first but its all tight in there does anyone have a good suggestion??

Im worried my next locker is going to come wrong too... I heard that richmond has been sending out a good few of these??

Why don't you take it back to the shop that did it and make them do it RIGHT. If the locker is really messed up cause of them then it shouldnt be a problem for them to fix it. They should stand behind their work. May I ask why you just didn't do the locker yourself in the first place if you are going to be putting in another one? I say just take it back....

 

[J98cherokee]

Well the shop that installed it said its not an installation problem and they took it apart and checked everything and put it back together. They said that it would work fine on the tests up on the lift but wouldnt lock when driving it. I had it installed because I needed to replace bearings and I didnt want to have to deal with taking out the carrier and setting backlash all that stuff. Im not familiar with axles but being just the locker and spider gears now I think ill be alright. I trust what the shop told me because the guy there knows what hes doing so I guess its time to get my hands dirty.