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New Member - Some questions regarding new rig

ADV_XJ

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Riverside, CA
Hey there, everyone. New to the forum. Somewhat new to XJ's. I've worked on hot rods and have owned a bronco in the past.

So, I picked up this '96 about a month ago with 180,000 miles. It's in pretty good shape, but has a few things that need attention.

It has an 8" Rusty's long arm lift (too high, I know), 35s, locked 8.25 in the rear, Dana 30 front, and 4.56 gears. No SYE, which has led to concerning vibrations. I have already purchased an advanced adapters SYE and it's waiting to go in.

I need some help regarding making some changes to the XJ.

Firstly, I'd like to lower it by swapping the front coil springs out to 6.5" coil springs. Is this doable with the 8" long arm kit? I'm aware that I'll need to trim and bumpstop to fit the 35s. I'm guessing I'd have to adjust the control arms and buy new shocks of the correct length?

Also, the jeep seems to ride rough as s*** over small potholes and such. Just lots of vibration being transmitted to the cabin. Could this be due to improperly adjusted control arms? Poor shocks? The current shock bushings seem to be egg-shaped and blown out.

Regarding the SYE install, the current pinion angle is shimmed so that the diff yoke points directly towards the transfer case. I have read that the pinion angle should be parallel to the transfer case output shaft angle. Would simply removing the existing shim level out the pinion angle?

Here are some pictures of the rig and suspension components for reference. Anything stand out as alarming?

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IMG_7136_zpsohd7jqra.jpg


IMG_7137_zpseuiqxavw.jpg


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Thanks in advance for any help. Looking forward to getting to know some of you guys and perhaps going on some wheeling trips.
 
Can't comment on dropping 2 inches, but I suspect it will work just fine with the long arms.

Regarding your pinion angle in the rear, you pinion is pointed much too high for not having and sye, and a little too high if you had the sye. With an sye and the accompanying double cardan driveshaft, the rear pinion should point straight at the tcase output while under load. This mean at rest, it should point a degree or two lower. Without the sye, the pinion should be parallel to the tcase shaft while under load, which again means just slightly lower while at rest.

Either way, yours is too high.
 
And welcome!

You should consider coming on a run with us this saturday night if you get your vibes in check soon enough. See the calico thread!
 
And welcome!

You should consider coming on a run with us this saturday night if you get your vibes in check soon enough. See the calico thread!

Thanks! I won't be able to make it this weekend as I'll be out of town. But I'd definitely be interested in going on some runs with you guys once I get everything dialed in!

I just ordered the new springs today, so I should be able to take measurements for the new driveshafts and shocks shortly thereafter.

Also, is that a coil spacer sitting on top of my coils or is that the factory spring isolator? Looks a bit tall for just an isolator, but I am unfamiliar with XJs.
 
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Welcome...

Look into the the rear spring rear shackle bushings... actually look into them all F & R...

The tires... I think they're load range D or E ?? Air press. ? Check it you can probably drop it a fair amount...

I believe you could pull the mega spacer and down size to something closer to stock to fine tune your desired height with your current springs... maybe a call to Rusty's to verify...

Give the motor mounts & trans. mount an inspection...

It's a nice looking XJ... fine tune it & make it your's...

Curt
 
you wont need new coils , ditch that coil spacer and readjust your uppers for more caster.

as for the shitty ride, get us a side view of your rear shackle angle?

consider better quality shocks too. ditch those cheap white bodies and look into some bilsteins.

inspect leaf bushings and control arm bushings. toasted bushings combined withSteep angles will surely make it ride like crap


if your coil and spring rates are very stiff, it will also ride rough.

to achieve that much lift, I am sure your leaves are super arched and have a very stiff rate.
Consider pulling the front coil spacers, inspecting/replacing all control arm bushings and joints only as needed, and then go to a shorter leaf pack. I hate shackle drop boxes but they will make it ride less rough if your shackle angle sucks.
 
consider less tire pressure too
 
Welcome...

Look into the the rear spring rear shackle bushings... actually look into them all F & R...

The tires... I think they're load range D or E ?? Air press. ? Check it you can probably drop it a fair amount...

I believe you could pull the mega spacer and down size to something closer to stock to fine tune your desired height with your current springs... maybe a call to Rusty's to verify...

Give the motor mounts & trans. mount an inspection...

It's a nice looking XJ... fine tune it & make it your's...

Curt


You might pull the overload/add a leaf in the rear packs second one up from the bottom...

Curt
 
goof call extreme XJ looks like he has a AAL in a lift pack. pull the rear AAL and the front coil spacers and start from there. dial in caster up front and pinion angle in the rear as per your setup .
 
goof call extreme XJ looks like he has a AAL in a lift pack. pull the rear AAL and the front coil spacers and start from there. dial in caster up front and pinion angle in the rear as per your setup .

This

And yes, Curt can be a bit of a goof.
 
I'd definitely go through the entire suspension. I don't see why you couldn't drop down to 6" and still retain the use of those front links. I would probably consider replacing the trackbar and steering in the near-term as the Rusty's track bars have a bad reputation.

Perhaps you can buy somebody a twelve pack and take over their driveway for an afternoon to go through it with you, that might be a good way to get an experienced eye on it. I'd offer but my driveway sucks right now.

As for the rough ride in particular you can try to loosen the suspension bolts (including leaf spring bolts), jump up and down in it, then tighten them back up to spec. A common mistake is to tighten the bushings when it's still in the air, when that happens you end up having the bushings pre-loaded incorrectly.
 
you wont need new coils , ditch that coil spacer and readjust your uppers for more caster.

as for the shitty ride, get us a side view of your rear shackle angle?

consider better quality shocks too. ditch those cheap white bodies and look into some bilsteins.

inspect leaf bushings and control arm bushings. toasted bushings combined withSteep angles will surely make it ride like crap


if your coil and spring rates are very stiff, it will also ride rough.

to achieve that much lift, I am sure your leaves are super arched and have a very stiff rate.
Consider pulling the front coil spacers, inspecting/replacing all control arm bushings and joints only as needed, and then go to a shorter leaf pack. I hate shackle drop boxes but they will make it ride less rough if your shackle angle sucks.

I'd definitely go through the entire suspension. I don't see why you couldn't drop down to 6" and still retain the use of those front links. I would probably consider replacing the trackbar and steering in the near-term as the Rusty's track bars have a bad reputation.

Perhaps you can buy somebody a twelve pack and take over their driveway for an afternoon to go through it with you, that might be a good way to get an experienced eye on it. I'd offer but my driveway sucks right now.

As for the rough ride in particular you can try to loosen the suspension bolts (including leaf spring bolts), jump up and down in it, then tighten them back up to spec. A common mistake is to tighten the bushings when it's still in the air, when that happens you end up having the bushings pre-loaded incorrectly.


Thanks for all of the input, guys. Already digging the sense of community on this forum.

I had already ordered a set of 6.5" BDS springs before reading your guys' responses. But worst case scenario, I'll return them if I don't need them. I'm planning on removing that add-a-leaf as well.

I also have the Advance Adapters SYE ready to go in, just need to find some time to install it, then take measurements for a new DS and shocks. I'll post a picture of the rear shackle angle tonight if I can get home before dark.

As for having one of you more experienced guys looking this thing over, I'd gladly supply you with some brews for lending a hand. I've got some funds set aside to buy any needed parts for this thing, so some direction from someone that has inspected the rig first-hand would be a huge help.

My schedule is a bit busy, as I'm a full time engineering student and work 20 hrs. a week, but the weekend of the 12th should be pretty open for me if any of you are able and willing to meet up.

Thanks again!
 
Now not to be that guy but.... take a good look at your steering hiems and make sure they are quality joints and that the angle of the track bar and steering match up to me it doesn't look Right. As far as trimming you shouldn't have to take much out at 6.5 inches of lift, I didn't take all that much out at 2.5 with 35s.

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Sorry for the long absence guys. Finally got the SYE installed along with a Tom Woods driveshaft. I also went ahead and installed new 6.5" BDS coil springs and acos spacers in case I add a winch/bumper in the future, and also removed the add a leaf from the rear.

I got the jeep up on a forklift to measure for new shocks and here are the measurements I got:

Front -
Collapsed: 21.0"
Extended: 33.5"

Rear -
Collapsed: 19.0"
Extended: 25.0"

I'd like to order Bilstein 5160s. Can anyone recommend the right shock length based on these measurements along with the correct valving?

Thanks guys! Getting close to having this thing back on the trails!


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For a little more money, you can get 7100's. They are rebuildable
 
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