New here, general build questions. LONG.

[OnorOffroad]

Hello, I am new here and I have been searching the threads quite a bit to try not to ask a question that has been answered 100 times, though I think that is unavoidable with someone as new as me.

I recently purchased a 99 XJ 4x4 that is basically stock except that it has at least a 3" lift on it, maybe 3.5". The lift (front to back) consists of springs/shocks, SB disconnects, lower control arms, t-case drop, lift blocks/shocks. I am 98% sure that it's an RE lift, except that I thought it was strange to see blocks in the rear. I don't know if it has an AAL. Riding on 31's. I'm a trail type, less of a rock crawler type, the thing doesn't have to be nuclear proof, but it has to be dependable. I am also not a wealthy person.. so budget is paramount.

The ISSUE: I have 31's, 3 of the tires are crap, 20-50% thread. I don't want to buy 31's because I want to go up to 35's. So I plan to modify OR replace what I already to have to achieve 6" of lift to fit 35's. I'll cut fenders if I need to. Also, can I use the t-case drop with a 6" lift until I can put an SYE + CV shaft in?

The following is open for validation or correction:
In order of priority my plan goes like this:
1. Rear disc brake conversion / longer brake lines
2. Rear detroit locker
3. Rear 4.56 gears (I would go 4.88 but I understand 4.56 is the highest available for the 8.25, still true?); Is this a difficult install, should I have a gear shop do it for me?
4. Rear 1541h alloy shafts

I will have to take a break in the build here due to financial reasons.

5. REAR 4.5" leafs (best manufacturer?) / 1.5" shackles ( might need shims here, 2-4deg probably)
6. Rear bar pin eliminator + shocks (any suggestion to length?)


7. FRONT END here is where I have no idea what to do next; I want to get 6" springs, longer shocks/bar pin eliminator, and I have read that over knuckle steering is best, so I would like to do that too, but I am really lost when it comes to the technical aspects of the front end. Ie: Do I need new upper/lower control arms? Drop pitman arm? Steering, etc?
8. 4.56 gears up front. I don't want to swap my front axle, will I need a new carrier for the Dana 30?
9. Should I put a locker up front to?

Thank you for your time,

 

[xj2win]

If you're going to be using 4 wheel drive at all, I would regear both axles at the same time. I've never tried to drive something with two drive axles running at different gear ratios, but I'm guessing it wouldn't be very pretty nor practical.

As fas as lift, do you already have a SYE? Newer XJ's and esp. the ones with 8.25 don't do well lifted without a SYE. I'd personally save the money so you can lift it and set up the drivetrain right all at once.

Other than those things it sounds like a good plan of attack. As far as the locker up front, I'd wait and see. If there are obstacles you can't make it over once you get everything set up how you want it, then put one in. The 30 upfront is borderline for running 35s, I'd definitely truss it if you put in a locker.

 

[anotherjeff]

X2-xj2win

PORC has a SYE for 189.95. If you don't have one I'd do that first. The drivetrain vibes I had in my '00 completely disappeared after I installed one. I'm currently running the RE 3.5 with 2" blocks up front (I have and ARB bumper) and MJ shackles out back for about 4-4.5 inches of lift with 265/75R16 tires (32") and I have no vibes up to and beyond 80 mph.

Buying bits and pieces to do a lift can end up costing you more than the entire lift. Groupbuy has decent prices on lifts. They have the RE extreme duty 5.5" for $1539.95, but that includes a SYE AND a Tom Woods custom drive shaft. That's close to what I have in my heep's lift now.

http://www.4x4groupbuy.com/store/rubicon-express-re6200-extreme-duty-free-combo-p-38.html

I've known people who've run 35's on the D30, but with the gearing you want to run, IMO I'd stick to a max of 33's.

 

[Junk Yard Dog]

If you're building up an XJ you need this book:
High-Performance-Cherokee-Builders-1984-2001-Design

When you start lifting past 4" you open a whole new can of worms. I run a 6" lift, 33s & 4.56 gears. It's a great combination. I run an open Dana 30 up front so as not to put too much strain on it. I have a Detroit in the rear. It goes where ever I point it.

Good luck.
JYD

 

[OnorOffroad]

Thanks for the tips. I have the Builders book already, that's where I learn the majority of build up information. is my other source of information.

How about the front end? The goal is to spend my money in the most effective manner. I am not looking for the best brand name everything, just want the best/efficient setup that I can afford.

So the adjusted schedule will start with an SYE/CV shaft, then gears/locker/shafts/brakes, then the lift.

Thanks again.

 

[Achmed]

Front locker first.

 

[Junk Yard Dog]

Front locker 1st? No way. The rear can handle the stress of it better than the stock Dana 30, especially the u-joints. You'll be snapping those left & right. If you're not rock crawling, and know how to drive, you don't need a front locker. It drives better on the street w/o as well. I've been beating on my stock Dana 30 w/4.56 gears for years w/no problems. I carry spare u-joint just in case.
Pretty much all the links & bars in the front end will need to be replaced. Beefier tie rod, longer adjustable track bar. drop pitman arm. A track bar brace is good too. I did a tie rod end flip on the drivers side to bring the tie rod parellel w/the axle. Watch the spacing between the rod & the lower sway bar link mount. Control are drop brackets are a must to avoid the dreaded "Death Wobble". Better yet would be a long arm kit. That's a sweet setup.
JYD

 

[Achmed]

Front locker 1st? No way. The rear can handle the stress of it better than the stock Dana 30, especially the u-joints. You'll be snapping those left & right.

That's has to be one of the omst inaccurate statements I have ever seen a Jeep owner make.

FWIW, I know MANY people who run a locked, stock 30 with no problems and most of our wheeling is on rocks. Not to mention, axle u-joint failure is not tied to having a locker or not. Having a locker in a D30 actually loads both front u-joints equally, which reduces the torque stress to each individual joint. LOL! Where did you come up with this?

 

[Achmed]

**Double Post**

 

[JNickel101]

As he said, IF you know how to drive...

There are people out there on 33s who would break u-joints on a D30 w/ or w/o a locker just because of how they drive. If he gets something like an Aussie for the front, he'd be fine.

 

[Achmed]

I've been running D30's with lockers in a few different vehicles. Most axle joint failure is due to loading and binding issues, not being locked or unlocked.

 

[bradow]

That groupbuy link looks like a pretty good deal, especially with drop brackets, a slip yoke and drive shaft. I would start there, then regear. Consider your locker options, if you want a carrier replacement style locker you will be way better off to have it installed now. You should be fairly broke by this point.

You may be able to sell your current lift to offset some of the cost. You said you needed new tires right, well after your lift and before you regear and trim you may want to consider getting another set of 31's, either used or some inexpensive all terrains. Get something that will last a while while you save up money for gears and new tires.

You said you wanted 35's right? Better budget for upgraded shafts, and axle trusses, better stopping breaks as well. You're gonna need steering but that is covered pretty well in the XJ builders guide.

Just a thought, but you may want to run a 33" tire once you get everything else kinda where you want it. They will be easier on those new parts you just bought and allow you to gain experience. After a year or so, if you think you still need 35's sell your 33's and upgrade. (FYI- unless you hang around with monster mud trucks, an XJ w/ 5.5" lift amd 33's, especially agressive 33's, will still look prety big)

Unless you are specifically looking for a carrier replacement locker for the D30(which in theory is stronger), you can leave it open for now, and get a drop in style locker later if you decide you need one.
Go ahead and find a reputable driveline shop while youre at it. Call them, ask some questions, don't be a jerk, if it is a good shop they will want your business and will be happy to answer your gear/carrier/locker questions. Nothing like talking with a real person.

Of course, Chapter 9- Skids and Recovery, but you already know that too.
Good luck.