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Need help with my "new" 89 cherokee

trailtamer said:
AS TO THE VIBRATION FROM YOUR FAN.IT SOUNDS LIKE THERE ARE EITHER LEAVES OR A STICK STUCK NEAR YOUR BLOWER FAN.
YOUR ENGINE "CHUGS" BECAUSE YOU NEED TO REPLACE YOUR IDLE AIR CONTROL VALVE.ITS LOCATED ON YOUR THROTTLE BODY.YOU CAN GET IT AT ANY AUTO PARTS FOR AROUND $90.00
Click to expand...

i took a look at the idle control while discovering my fuel leak, the clips for the connections were broken, so i figure the previous owner had problems with it, it doesn't look to be replaced, an now i gotta buy new connections.

as for the fan i've yet to look at it.
 
On the vibration if it is not the fan blade or motor bearings, I would check for a bad relay that is not locking in, or a blower resitor pack that is birning out on a resistor or two.

Since the jeep is new to you, I would start by cleaning the battery posts and cable clamps and the cables themselves if they are removable, Also remove and clean all the ground wires at the engine block and fire wall. One is on the drivers side rear head, the other is near the oil dip stick holder bracket next to the oil filter. The get dirty and loose and cause all sort of odd problems like yours. No parts cost here. Then with the power off, check the firewall to engine block resistance with an ohm meter on the lowest range. It should be less than 1 ohm. Then check the resistance from the engine block to the battery negative post, also should be less than 1 ohm.

Next time you have a no start with cranking, try holding the gas peddle to the floor, this shuts off the fuel to the injectors, if it starts or trys to start it was flooded and you have a leaking injector(s) or bad temperature sensor(s) (Coolant or Manifold Air Temperature Sensors, CTS or MAT), if not, then have someone crank it while monitoring a removed spark plug wire held near the engine block (use insulated tools to hold the plug wire unless your into electrical thrills!), if there is no spark then your problem is most probably (apx 98% probabilty) a bad CPS/CKP sensor, but it could be a bad wire in the harness or connector, a bad HV coil or ICM, Ignition Control Module.

There is a chance the chuging and no start are related. Could be the CPS/CKP causing both, but an intermitent (bad) ground at the battery or oil dip stick, or TPS ground, or CPS ground, or an intermitent vacuum leak, or compression , head gasket or intermitent valve problem, or problem, or even a dying HV coil wire from the coil to the distributor that is arcing to ground!!!!

Lastly, I had cold starting problems with mine that turned out to a bad MAT sensor. They can cause cold or hot engine no start problems with a cranking engine. I also had a weird idle speed cycling (chugging?) problem where it ran from 200 rpm to 1000 in a 2 second cycle loop that was caused by the TPS sensor connector being attached backwards. A bad, loose, noisy ground at a TPS could cause a variable idle speed!
 
StandsOnToes said:
alright so i had a half day today so i was able to squeeze in my hands to look at the CPS, ( and yeah i was talking about the dust cover, i wasn;t too worried about it) but yeah all the connections were nice and clean and i took a rag and wire brush to it them just incase. and its started fine since everytime, its only died that one time...so far. i live out in the boonies so its hard to get parts but i'm gonna replace it first chance i can find one.


So, i believe i may have found the problem with the "chugging" or "loping" as my haynes calls it. heres some pictures cuase i'm not sure what these parts are called, they connect off the metal fuel line near the oil fill.
Any suggestions on how to fix or what i gotta replace are welcome.









heres jsut a pic to show where its located ( circled in red)





while the engine in running fuel leaks out of this at a fairly good rate. it all had evaporated by the time i took this picture.It leaks out of the small opening ( red arrow). i also found fuel in the electrical connection ( red circle) . i know these provide fuel to the cylinders. Is this pretty serious? I'm kicking myself for not seeing this when i bought it ... Oh yeah while the engine is runnign this makes a pretty loud Hisss.



i was going to check the fuel line pressure, but when i went to go release the pressureto check some other stuff , nothing happend. ( doesn't sound like the 50psi thats supposed to be in the line) or is this normal? ( i had the fuel filler cap off) i'm definatly a newbie i just was wondering...
Click to expand...


That is a picture of your fuel injectors...you may be able to fix that by replacing the "O" rings that seal the injector in the intake manifold... I would replace them all while you have the fuel rail dis-assembled...the injectors themselves may need replacing....

Search on "fuel injectors" ...you will find many threads about servicing them...and the rest of your fuel syastem...
 
It's RENIX - just replace the injectors.

If you still have the OEM injectors (plastic crimped into metal housing,) they're known for leaking at the body join somewhere around 150-180Kmiles or so, and the only fix is replacement. Replace with later units (they have an ultrasonically-welded plastic/plastic body - don't leak!) and you'll be fine. Don't do it, and you find out just how badly engine bay fires can suck (remember: the exhaust manifold is right under the intake manifold, which is right under the fuel rail...)

Fortunately, it only takes an hour or so to replace the injectors. If the new injectors have the o-rings assembled to them, lubricate with Vaseline. If the new o-rings are loose, drop them in a cup of clean gasoline before you tear everything apart. The latter method is better, but the odds are better than even that you'll wreck a couple of rings taking them off the injectors...
 
Get rid of the leaky injectors before you burn it to the ground! Replace the stock injectors with the much cheaper Ford units. Search for the correct part numbers but they are a common injector. You can usually buy a set of 6 for about the same price as 2 stock ones.

You will need 13 "O" rings, 2 for each injector, and one for the fuel pressure regulator. The fuel line "O" rings are a dealer only item, sorry, you can get "close" with the Motormite replacements but I do not trust them.
 
Thanks Everyone!!!

Itoday was the first real chance i've had to rip stuff apart.i just got done ripping out the air blower fan. The air blower motor has a shot bearing. there wasn't any sticks or anything around the fan. So after dealing with that i was able to make a list of things i need to replace and repair.

-fuel injectors-and/or- o rings
-CPS
-Maybe the Idle speed sensor or at least the connections( they were broken apart)
- two oil hoses.
-spark plugs (they looked pretty old carbonwise)
-coolent hose.
-brakes
- and i'll take ecomike advice and go cleaning my grounds and related wiring.

So untill i get all this done or have questions on the how-to( though i'm surei can search it here) thanks for all the advice, engine manuals, and expertise!!
 
You need to replace the fuel injectors immediately before they start a fire. Do not buy OEM injectors, they are notorious for leaks. Best buy on new ones is www.fiveomotorsports.com or get some junk yard 19 lb ford injectors.

The IAC will not cause chugging, as you described it, IMHO. When it is chugging next time, disconect the IAC, if it stops chugging then yes it might be the IAC, if the chugging continues then it is not the IAC. You can try the same thing with the TPS, disconnect it, if the chugging stops, since it is new TPS, I would suspect a loose ground or other TPS connection somewhere.

You mentioned hissing? But not sure where you heard it??? A vacuum leak at the vacuum hose attachment to the throttle body that leads to the MAP sensor is known to occasionally come loose, causing hissing and a rough idle and back firing, etc. Anyway, any hissing sounds like a vacuum leak, which can cause all sort of idle and gas mileage problems.
 
the hissing was from the fuel injector . , i believe anyway. the fuel injetor is leaking and i can't reall trac kdown the source of the hiss other than that general area. i could try stethescoping but maybe after i get other stuff done first .
 
so i replaced the air motor and the buzzing and vibration are gone!!! That was quite a bitch to put back in..
AND while looking more closley at the IAC or what i believe is it. i found that the connection to the throttle body was not connected, the hose had worked itself way underneath it out of sight. So i plug it back in and the weird idle is gone !!!! it's now idleing at about 750 which you all told me it the normal range. oh and that must of been the hissing cuase thats gone now too.

So now the next thing to tackle is the injectors.

I phoned all around and noone has the OEM injectors for the jeep, but while i was picking up the blower motor today i asked about #19 ford injectors which are talked about on this forum as a good replacement for the OEM's and he said he couldn't find them for me unless i had a make-model year or part number for them. i jsut said all i knew was #19 ford . So if anyone could tell me just what i need to ask for that would rock.

and its only the one injector that has a leak, and i'm a poor college student right now so i think i might just replace the one for the time being. Do i have to worry about any of the connections when removing the fuel rail?

thanks again for all your help everyone
 
1) Sounds like the hose to the MAP sensor had come loose. If you check that connector, it should have two little nubbins on it - one with the hose, and one without. Put a little RTV on the one without the hose, and push it back into place - once it starts coming loose, it tends to keep doing so.

2) Any SB Ford or SB Chevvy injectors from roughly the same era should work - your parts guy should be a little sharper. However, if you check out FiveOMotorsports (www.fiveomotorsports.com, I think - try with and without the final "s",) you can get a good price on a set of six "pulled and tested" injectors. Probably better than buying new locally, and definitely better than buying OEM replacements locally (I wish I knew about them when I had to replace injectors in my 87...)

You will end up needing to go to the dealer - those quick-connect fittings at either end of the fuel rail need to be renewed whenever they are disconnected. The kit to do so should cost $12-15 each (you'll want two,) and contains the Nylon ears, two o-rings, a Nylon spacer, and an installation mandrel. Use a pick to remove the two o-rings and the spacer from the female side, then press the kit in. You'll hear a "click" - squeeze the ears and remove, then pull the mandrel out of the ears. Remove the ears on the hose, and replace with the new ones. Takes only a few seconds, so do it right before you put things back together (so you don't risk losing parts as greatly.)
 
There is actually *just* enough room to change the injectors without having to remove the fuel disconnects at either end.

Only remove the 4 retaining bolts that hold down the fuel rail.
 
so i'm a poor college student so i figured i'd try to just change the O rings on the leaky injectors first b4 biting the bullet and buying new ones. So, i replaced the O rings and ones fixed the other is leaking ten times as bad. So i just wanted to ask is there a easy way to make the connection withe the injector and the fuel rail while the rail is still hooked up? I have the bolts romoved and the fuel connection near the front. Or should i remove the entire rail and all the injectors, and then put it all back together? whats the best way of doing this?


Also i jsut bought the CPS anyone know of a easy way of getting to it ??? i can barely get my hands on it let alone a tool to remove and install one.

thanks again for helping out a newbie
 
StandsOnToes said:
so i'm a poor college student so i figured i'd try to just change the O rings on the leaky injectors first b4 biting the bullet and buying new ones. So, i replaced the O rings and ones fixed the other is leaking ten times as bad. So i just wanted to ask is there a easy way to make the connection withe the injector and the fuel rail while the rail is still hooked up? I have the bolts romoved and the fuel connection near the front. Or should i remove the entire rail and all the injectors, and then put it all back together? whats the best way of doing this?

Use the search tool for "Crankshaft Position Sensor install", must be over 100 great threads on how to and how not replace it. Do not search three three letter items, like CPS. The search tool requires 4 letters.

Remove the entire fuel rail (but you can leave the hoses attached), remove all the injectors (clips!!!), replace all the o'rings on the injectors (a little vasoline helps avoid cutting or gouging the o'rings). Also make sure there are no old o'rings lurking in the fuel rail or engine head!!!! Install the injectors (that have new o'rings) back in the fuel rail, install the clips, then install the entire fuel rail back into the head gently, slowly and carefully, put once they are set, be sure to push and seat them. Then install the bolts on the fuel rail.

Then once you find some of the old injectors still leaking at body :huh:
(o'ring at the ends won't help that) :doh: pull the fuel rail off again, and start over, and REPLACE the fuel injectors that are leaking at the body seam, like 5-90 suggested! That is if you have not started a fire and burned it all up already. Me I got lucky, and did it the wrong way, three times before I bought new injectors. I have about 18 leaky injectors hastathat I use as boat anchors now, LOL.

Don't mistake leaking o'rings for leaking bodies on the injectors. Sometimes it is hard to tell the difference. I was able to see the difference on mine by cycling the fuel pump on and off, with out starting the engine!!!!





Also i jsut bought the CPS anyone know of a easy way of getting to it ??? i can barely get my hands on it let alone a tool to remove and install one.

thanks again for helping out a newbie
Click to expand...
 
XJ Stryker said:
Rip out your carpet and check your floor that old of a jeep is notorious for rust i have recently found out... I thought i just had a little also when i bought my 87

http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=945280
Click to expand...



yeah my rust is in the exact same spots, and looks to be the same amount. thanks for the tip for when i get around to body repair.


and thanks for the search tip on the CPS i tried and couldn;t find any helpful ones. but i guess i'll try again .
 
Last edited:
StandsOnToes said:
yeah my rust is in the exact same spots, and looks to be the same amount. thanks for the tip for when i get around to body repair.


and thanks for the search tip on the CPS i tried and couldn;t find any helpful ones. but i guess i'll try again .
Click to expand...

HTH

xjtrailrider said:
CPS(crank position sensor) most likely, Its located at the top of the bell housing, drivers side. Follow the pig tale lead up the firewall to the plug. Unplug that and plug it back in and see if it will start. You should plan on a replacement, that trick will only get you a few starts.

You will need, or should I say, I use a 3' 3/8" drive extension and a 11mm swivel socket to remove it and go in from underneath. I drop the new on in from the top and use "bubblegum" to hold the bolts into the swivel socket to re-install. It takes patience but you will get it!
Click to expand...
 
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