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Need Brakes upgrade

That's the key phrase here. I tried stock prop valve versus modified, big difference. Stock prop valves are designed to work with drums they come with. Everything I researched said their two needs are quite different and with the stock prop valve there was literally no difference between drums or disks.

Did you just pull the spring out underneath the cap? Or did you add a different prop valve?
 
The first mod was removing the spring. I have an adjustable prop valve from SSBC, I just have no time to install it. :looser:
 
Did you just pull the spring out underneath the cap? Or did you add a different prop valve?
Should not run with no spring as loose the dual circuit, so if any leak happens on the wheel or hose, you loose everything. You just need to swap the spring over from a ZJ p/valve.
 
Should not run with no spring as loose the dual circuit, so if any leak happens on the wheel or hose, you loose everything. You just need to swap the spring over from a ZJ p/valve.

Correct me here please - I thought the spring only controls the metering to the rear brakes. The shuttle valve seperates front/rear functions?
 
Correct me here please - I thought the spring only controls the metering to the rear brakes. The shuttle valve seperates front/rear functions?

Correct.

Of course removing the rear spring may allow the rear brakes to lock up first, if this happens at speed the vehicle will slide ass end out. I wish that guy sent me the pictures of his Jeep that went ass end out then over...

Note: If you remove that spring test to see if you still stop straight!
 
Of course removing the rear spring may allow the rear brakes to lock up first, if this happens at speed the vehicle will slide ass end out. I wish that guy sent me the pictures of his Jeep that went ass end out then over...
Note: If you remove that spring, test to see if you still stop straight!

Thanks for posting Van. Its good to have an expert's opinion.

There is a lot of misinformation on what the proportioning valve does.
Its primary job is to restrict rear brake pressure under very hard braking to prevent the rear end from locking up before the front, hopefully preventing a spin. This is especially important in wet weather.
 
Correct.

Of course removing the rear spring may allow the rear brakes to lock up first, if this happens at speed the vehicle will slide ass end out. I wish that guy sent me the pictures of his Jeep that went ass end out then over...

Note: If you remove that spring test to see if you still stop straight!

Van,

What do think about shortening the spring a few loops?
 
That's the key phrase here. I tried stock prop valve versus modified, big difference. Stock prop valves are designed to work with drums they come with. Everything I researched said their two needs are quite different and with the stock prop valve there was literally no difference between drums or disks.

I agree 1,000% about the propotioning valve. With the rear breaks in good working condition and a good porp valve, I uesd to lock up the rear breaks as fast as or faster in wet pavement than the front breaks. I now have disks. The disks are on par with the drumb breaks not better.

In my opinion, with large tires, one would need improve the breaking capabiltiy on the front wheels especially. Go-Jeep's kit and the Vanco kit offers larger calipers, rotors and improved disks pad material all aimed at pproviding better contact/grip on the rotor.

A low budget solution may be difficult to achieve.
 
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None of the XJs came with rear disc, though depending what axle you have it is a pretty simple swap using 93-98 Grand Cherokee parts or Crown Victoria parts.


Ok - on prop valves -
If I remove the stock metering spring and throw an adjustable in line to the rear BUT KEEP THE SHUTTLE VALVE I should maintain the front/rear safety features but be able to dial in my rear brakes myself, right?
 
None of the XJs came with rear disc, though depending what axle you have it is a pretty simple swap using 93-98 Grand Cherokee parts or Crown Victoria parts.


Ok - on prop valves -
If I remove the stock metering spring and throw an adjustable in line to the rear BUT KEEP THE SHUTTLE VALVE I should maintain the front/rear safety features but be able to dial in my rear brakes myself, right?

Should be able to, yes.
 
it cost me under $200 to replace my front calipers, rotors, and pads.

just remember, new calipers can get tiny air bubbles on the sidewalls and need to be tapped off with a ball hammer...

im looking into getting the grand cherokee conversion on my 8.25 axle because it seems to be easier in the long run, and cheaper right now.
 
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