Need advice on buying niche tools for my Jeep DIYs

[bimmerjeeper]

I just got an XJ, and it looks like I am going to need to add a few new tools to my collection (like stuff to deal with rusted bolts) I just need help in picking one from each group.

So, I am hoping someone here knows which tools are worth spending more on, and which are fine to stick with the cheaper stuff. I just need "good enough", but I do not want to to buy junk that breaks. Some of these tools I may never even use. Yes, a $400 ratchet handle would be nice, but my $150 Craftsman 355 piece socket set has been fine for my basic uses. I can't spend $10,000 on pro quality tools (Snap-on, Matco, etc) Anything job that requires pro caliber tools is probably out of my league anyway. The heavy lifting is shopped out to a real mechanic anyway. I am a "tune up" kind of guy. I have plenty of light-duty stuff from Harbor Freight that has worked fine for me. In some cases, getting a cheap tool from HF allows me to have one in the first place (B/c spending 4x more would just mean not owning it at all. Like a $99 welder) That said, I bet CERTAIN tools are not to be cheaped out on b/c they break.

I will post some links to give you an idea of what tool I am talking about. I am really looking for ideas of the right one to buy. Best price/performance combination. If you know of a better item or place to buy, please post a link. Thanks for the help.....

1) Screw Extractor Set.
I have read that the "square" ones are the best ones, hands down.
I also read that many cheap ones just snap like a twig.
So, this seems like a tool that's not worth cheaping out on, since a lot of force/torque may be applied.

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00966196000P
http://www.sears.com/craftsman-5-pc-screw-extractor-set/p-00952315000P
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/ac...5qe?itemIdentifier=466512&_requestid=10476745
http://www.harborfreight.com/12-piece-screw-extractor-set-40349.html

What are these about?
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/ac...5qe?itemIdentifier=291335&_requestid=10476443

Do I also need this?
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/ac...5qe?itemIdentifier=466616&_requestid=10476822

Or this?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/MEDIUM-GENERAL-T-HANDLE-TAP-HOLDER-HOLDING-WRENCH-TOOL-/250850898999?


2) Bolt extractor set. These are reverse threaded sockets that grip onto the bolt?
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/ac...-mm-bolts/_/N-25qe?itemIdentifier=486979_0_0_


3) Tap and die set. Used to re-create threads after drilling out a screw or bolt.
http://www.sears.com/craftsman-40-pc-tap-and-die-set-master-rethreader/p-00952105000P
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/ac...nd-die-set/_/N-25ez?itemIdentifier=54577_0_0_


4) Tap Socket set? What is this for? Should I get these?
http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_sacat=0&_from=R40&_nkw=tap socket set&_sop=15


5) Torch to heat bolts. I can't remember the type I was told to get. It was hotter than propane and cost about $50. Do you know what kind of torch I need?

6) Hose clamp pliers. I want to replace all 4 radiator hoses. Which should I get?
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/ac...KeyWord=hose+clamp+removers&fromString=search


7) Impact screwdriver. Don't cheap out here?
http://www.harborfreight.com/impact-screwdriver-set-with-case-37530.html
http://www.harborfreight.com/7-piece-reversible-impact-driver-set-93481.html
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/ac...river-Set/_/N-25dw?itemIdentifier=529289_0_0_
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_...toTools&sName=Automotive Specialty Toolsmv=rr


8) Quick disconnect tool (fuel and tranny lines)
I see 2 styles. Are these the same thing? Or are they for different uses?
http://www.harborfreight.com/3-piece-quick-disconnect-tool-set-38732.html
vs.
http://www.harborfreight.com/4-piece-fuel-and-auto-trans-line-disconnect-tool-set-96834.html


9) Pitch Gauge tool. Do I want 55 or 60 degree? Or both?
http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_trksid=p5197.m570.l1313&_nkw=pitch+gauge+thread&_sacat=0&_from=R40

10) Angle Grinder $20? Which one?
http://www.harborfreight.com/catalogsearch/result?q=angle grinder

11) $99 Welder to patch a small hole in the rocker panel (Or to replace entire rocker)
http://www.harborfreight.com/Wire-Welder-90-Amp-Flux-68887.html?


Misc things I am going to add:
http://www.harborfreight.com/3-piece-square-drive-socket-caps-67011.html
http://www.harborfreight.com/3-8-eighth-inch-stubby-swivel-head-ratchet-98668.html

 

[WB9YZU]

Some useful stuff:

13 mm 12point socket
36mm 6point socket
Basic set of metric sockets
Basic set of SAE sockets
Nice set of screwdrivers
Basic TORX sockets
Vice grip
Pliers
Sidecutters
Slip pliers
Set of cresent wrenches

I started with a basic set of tools years ago. As stuff broke. I bought more tools. You can start off with a $10,000 budget and buy every tool in the book, or you can buy as needed.

 

[bimmerjeeper]

Thanks. I am looking for specific recommendations on the 10 items I posted above. Any help with what exactly should I buy from each group?

 

[Pelican]

A MAPP gas torch was suggested but you can use either a MAPP cylinder or propane cylinder depending how hot a flame you need. I keep several of each on hand. My current torch does not have an adjustable flame but I will get one of those the next time around.

I guess hose clamp pliers would be nice but I've never had a problem using water-pump pliers on my Jeeps.

 

[ParadiseXJ]

You're over thinking this IMHO. I have lots of tools. If there is a tool I don't have and I have trouble affording it, I borrow it at AuotZone. No money out, job done. Never needed it or used it again. What if you spend a crapload of money on tools and you never have to use them. Your kids will sell them for 50 cents a piece at your Estate Sale when you croak (which cheap bastards like me will buy).

I have these Jeep specific tools...ummm...none. Except for the square socket extension I ground down to ~5/16" to open the block drain plug when I realized out of ALLLL the tools I have, I didn't have that ONE tool.


Who knew :dunno:

 

[Lurch]

Some useful stuff:

13 mm 12point socket
36mm 6point socket
Basic set of metric sockets
Basic set of SAE sockets
Nice set of screwdrivers
Basic TORX sockets
Vice grip
Pliers
Sidecutters
Slip pliers
Set of cresent wrenches

I started with a basic set of tools years ago. As stuff broke. I bought more tools. You can start off with a $10,000 budget and buy every tool in the book, or you can buy as needed.

This is good advice.

 

[88trailcrawler]

I agree you may be over thinking it. I have the crappiest set of tools ever. My sockets are organized it Tupperware (when they are organized). It sometimes takes me longer to find the right wrench than it does to pull the part off I am working on.

I have done quite a bit and just run to autozone or sears when I need something and then just buy the individual tool I need.

I do think you could make a list and assemble a setup you might never use a lot of it.

That being said, I have more than once made a list of tools I thought I needed.


Finally....... Would love to hear some input on that welder from those who know. I would love to be able to weld up sheet metal repairs, maybe some reinforcement brackets or tabs here and there. Can you really weld with a $100.00 welder?

 

[WB9YZU]

From my experience with that welder, it is too heavy for bodywork, but works fine for building bumpers as long as you remember that you have a 20% duty cycle to deal with. When it gets hot, and it will, the thermal breaker pops and you have to wait for it to cool off. The welding shield that comes with it is not of any quality and you will also need to buy a welding helmet/mask.

 

[johnnyc]

Besides those already mentioned, a couple other tools that I have used more than once...

A Harbor Freight ball joint tool for changing ball joints and u-joints. Wait for it to go on sale, then use a 20% coupon on top of that.

And a good torque wrench. You can find used Snap-On ones on Craigslist. Or search on Amazon for Precision Instruments torque wrenches and CDI torque wrenches. Both are made in the USA and CDI makes the Snap-On wrenches, but cost much less. Get one that goes up to 250 ft/lbs.

 

[Breezio69]

I put together a tool bag based on one thing, what I would use on MY jeep... it may seem selfish and dumb if someone else breaks down and you have all but the wrench they need. But in the end, I hauled it in... and you broke, not me... I took a socket set and went through various parts that could end up breaking (obvious easy trail repairs)... driveline bolts, wheel lugs, various sizes for steering, front axle /rear axle disassembly. And two lengths of each screwdriver, needlenose, channel locks... you get the point. The basics...

The 75lbs of "every tool the various kits came with" turns to half that when you realize you only need a few from the set to perform about every task on the jeep. Its nice to easily carry out one small bag as opposed to 6 different hard cases chock full of 20 screwdrivers and 110 sockets/ driver bits that you will never use on the jeep.


Edit.... very sorry, just reread initial post and realized this was a garage setup... not just trail... oops

 

[Breezio69]

BUT, I would like to know one thing Mr. OP, it has nothing to do with tools... haha

How many windows did you have open to make that post? I was amazed by the quantity of links provided. You had to have had the taskbar saying WTF are you doing to me.... aperwork

 

[souske]

I use and would reccommend:

http://www.sears.com/craftsman-5-pc-screw-extractor-set/p-00952315000P

http://www.ebay.com/itm/MEDIUM-GENERAL-T-HANDLE-TAP-HOLDER-HOLDING-WRENCH-TOOL-/250850898999?

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/ac...mp-pliers/_/N-26on?itemIdentifier=607069_0_0_
( I have a craftsman version, it works great)

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_...toTools&sName=Automotive Specialty Toolsmv=rr

http://www.harborfreight.com/3-piece...set-38732.html

A cheap grinder is a cheap grinder. Costco had some hitachi ones a while back for $30, nearly as nice as a dewalt.

The HF flux core is fine for small jobs. Dont forget to add an autodim hemet.

 

[5-90]

I just got an XJ, and it looks like I am going to need to add a few new tools to my collection (like stuff to deal with rusted bolts) I just need help in picking one from each group.

So, I am hoping someone here knows which tools are worth spending more on, and which are fine to stick with the cheaper stuff. I just need "good enough", but I do not want to to buy junk that breaks. Some of these tools I may never even use. Yes, a $400 ratchet handle would be nice, but my $150 Craftsman 355 piece socket set has been fine for my basic uses. I can't spend $10,000 on pro quality tools (Snap-on, Matco, etc) Anything job that requires pro caliber tools is probably out of my league anyway. The heavy lifting is shopped out to a real mechanic anyway. I am a "tune up" kind of guy. I have plenty of light-duty stuff from Harbor Freight that has worked fine for me. In some cases, getting a cheap tool from HF allows me to have one in the first place (B/c spending 4x more would just mean not owning it at all. Like a $99 welder) That said, I bet CERTAIN tools are not to be cheaped out on b/c they break.

I will post some links to give you an idea of what tool I am talking about. I am really looking for ideas of the right one to buy. Best price/performance combination. If you know of a better item or place to buy, please post a link. Thanks for the help.....

1) Screw Extractor Set.
I have read that the "square" ones are the best ones, hands down.
I also read that many cheap ones just snap like a twig.
So, this seems like a tool that's not worth cheaping out on, since a lot of force/torque may be applied.

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00966196000P
http://www.sears.com/craftsman-5-pc-screw-extractor-set/p-00952315000P
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/ac...5qe?itemIdentifier=466512&_requestid=10476745
http://www.harborfreight.com/12-piece-screw-extractor-set-40349.html

What are these about?
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/ac...5qe?itemIdentifier=291335&_requestid=10476443

Do I also need this?
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/ac...5qe?itemIdentifier=466616&_requestid=10476822

Or this?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/MEDIUM-GENERAL-T-HANDLE-TAP-HOLDER-HOLDING-WRENCH-TOOL-/250850898999?

I don't like screw extractors - generally, they're very hard, which makes them very brittle. Heat usually works better to break a screw loose than mechanical force, I've detailed a few methods elsewhere on the board.

2) Bolt extractor set. These are reverse threaded sockets that grip onto the bolt?
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/ac...-mm-bolts/_/N-25qe?itemIdentifier=486979_0_0_

These seem to make a little more sense to me, since they're working with the screw the way screws are intended to work. However, heat beforehand can still be very useful - see previous point.

3) Tap and die set. Used to re-create threads after drilling out a screw or bolt.
http://www.sears.com/craftsman-40-pc-tap-and-die-set-master-rethreader/p-00952105000P
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/ac...nd-die-set/_/N-25ez?itemIdentifier=54577_0_0_

If you're making new threads, then a tap & die set is the way to go. If you're cleaning threads, you're better off using a "thread chaser" set - they're not designed to cut threads, so you're far less likely to cut crossed threads! Internal thread chasers can be readily made from SAE8 or ISO 12.9 screws with minimal effort, you're better off either buying a set of external thread chasers (they look like dies, but aren't) or just getting a 60-degree "thread fiile" to clean up external threads (a single-piont 60-degree file will work on any Unified 60-degree thread - SAE, ISO, NPT, NPS, -AN, -JIC, or whatever. You can also get a "pitch file," which is a square bar with various "pitch files" ground into it - but the "single point" file is more useful in general.)

http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_sacat=0&_from=R40&_nkw=tap socket set&_sop=154) Tap Socket set? What is this for? Should I get these?
http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_sacat=0&_from=R40&_nkw=tap socket set&_sop=15[/QUOTE]

Looks like a set of deep sockets sized to accept a tap, since there are only a few hex sizes that are used for the blanks. Why not just use standard sockets, if you need one? (I'll usually either use a die wrench or a crescent or box wrench if I need more leverage and/or control)

Torch to heat bolts. I can't remember the type I was told to get. It was hotter than propane and cost about $50. Do you know what kind of torch I need?

Propane or MAPP is just fine - either will get plenty hot enough to work as a "blue wrench". More important is the flame profile - you want a "pencil flame," or as close to it as you can get, to allow for better control over the heat (if you're trying to remove a screw using heat, you want to heat the screw ONLY, which has a few advantages for you over heating the area in general.)

Hose clamp pliers. I want to replace all 4 radiator hoses. Which should I get?
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/ac...KeyWord=hose+clamp+removers&fromString=search

For those spring clamps? I use slip joints mostly, long-nose if I need to reach in to something. Take those spring clamps off, throw 'em away. I've never liked those things, they're used because they cost less to install at the factory///

Impact screwdriver. Don't cheap out here?
http://www.harborfreight.com/impact-screwdriver-set-with-case-37530.html
http://www.harborfreight.com/7-piece-reversible-impact-driver-set-93481.html
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/ac...river-Set/_/N-25dw?itemIdentifier=529289_0_0_
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_...toTools&sName=Automotive Specialty Toolsmv=rr

I'd say to not cheap out, but I've never needed to use an "impact screwdriver" to free anything up.

Quick disconnect tool (fuel and tranny lines)
I see 2 styles. Are these the same thing? Or are they for different uses?
http://www.harborfreight.com/3-piece-quick-disconnect-tool-set-38732.html
vs.
http://www.harborfreight.com/4-piece-fuel-and-auto-trans-line-disconnect-tool-set-96834.html

Those are for Ford-style "garter spring" couplings. I've not had to use one on an XJ, but I've only owned RENIX. If ChryCo went to use those wretched things later, I'd be redesigning parts! However, there's not much to these, you can pick them up anywhere (they're keyed - obviously - to line size.)

Pitch Gauge tool. Do I want 55 or 60 degree? Or both?
http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_trksid=p5197.m570.l1313&_nkw=pitch+gauge+thread&_sacat=0&_from=R40

The 55* gages are for British "Whitworth" threads - they're used only rarely anymore (firearms and vintage British cars.) The 60* gages are the "Unified" form - which, as I mentioned earlier, covers pretty much anything (SAE, ISO, NPS, NPT, -AN, -JIC, ...) The gages don't cross, you'll get inaccurate readings if you use the wrong profile of gage. Something like the "Vermont American"-branded leaf gages you'll find at the hardware store are just fine here.

Also, if you are going to be guessing screw sizes quite a bit, you can go to MSC Direct's site and get their "thread detective" - simply thread the questioned fasteners in/on whichever bung it fits, and you know all in one shot!

10) Angle Grinder $20? Which one?
http://www.harborfreight.com/catalogsearch/result?q=angle grinder

I wouldn't cheap out here, I've had a Craftsman that's lasted me a good 15 years or so. No trouble here.

11) $99 Welder to patch a small hole in the rocker panel (Or to replace entire rocker)
http://www.harborfreight.com/Wire-Welder-90-Amp-Flux-68887.html?

I haven't struck an arc since high school, so no real advice to give here (I'd probably rivet and solder anyhow.)

Misc things I am going to add:
http://www.harborfreight.com/3-piece-square-drive-socket-caps-67011.html

The first bit will allow you to use a wrench to drive sockets - I don't see why that would be useful. If it's that stuck, use a breaker bar and maybe a "cheater pipe" - tools you probably already have.

The second? I have stubby flex heads in 1/4" and 3/8" drive, and both have come in very handy.

You may also want to get a set of "thumbwheel" ratchets - something like these: http://www.sears.com/wilmar-perform...M7412905611?prdNo=13&blockNo=13&blockType=G13. They can greatly simplify matters when you have a number of screws to remove for something (break loose with a standard socket wrench first, then move the socket and get the screws out) or when you have limited space (those screws are probably not horribly tight anyhow.)

 

[bimmerjeeper]

Thanks for the replies. To clarify, I already have about $800 worth of tools, but I am adding a few things in order to do the work my XJ needs. All 10 items in the list are directly related to something job on my XJ. That is why I am shopping for more tools.

(if you're trying to remove a screw using heat, you want to heat the screw ONLY, which has a few advantages for you over heating the area in general.)

I heard the opposite of this. You heat the thing the bolt or screw in enclosed in. Like the housing a screw goes into, or the nut that goes around the bolt. Otherwise, you're just making the screw/bolt bigger and more stuck.

Those are for Ford-style "garter spring" couplings. I've not had to use one on an XJ, but I've only owned RENIX. If ChryCo went to use those wretched things later, I'd be redesigning parts! However, there's not much to these, you can pick them up anywhere (they're keyed - obviously - to line size.)

I read you need these to replace the radiator. There are tranny lines going into the radiator.

The 55* gages are for British "Whitworth" threads - they're used only rarely anymore (firearms and vintage British cars.) The 60* gages are the "Unified" form - which, as I mentioned earlier, covers pretty much anything (SAE, ISO, NPS, NPT, -AN, -JIC, ...) The gages don't cross, you'll get inaccurate readings if you use the wrong profile of gage. Something like the "Vermont American"-branded leaf gages you'll find at the hardware store are just fine here.

I am missing 3 screws that hold in my hood release cable. Instead of spending $15 for 3 screws at the dealer, I thought I'd use this an an oppty to learn about threads. If I can identify the screw pitch, I can go to HD and buy a screw for 25cents. So, I should just buy the Ebay thread pitch tool that is 60* for $4?

I haven't struck an arc since high school, so no real advice to give here (I'd probably rivet and solder anyhow.)

I know zero about welding. What's the difference b/w "arc" and rivet/solder? Which method would I use to attempt patching a palm sized hole in my rocker?

The first bit will allow you to use a wrench to drive sockets - I don't see why that would be useful. If it's that stuck, use a breaker bar and maybe a "cheater pipe" - tools you probably already have.

I think it's for getting into tight spaces where the ratchet head is too big.

 

[bimmerjeeper]

Can someone tell me where to get a "good enough" pair of Vice Grips?
Also, I think I need a Channel lock or slip joint. Anyone suggest an all-purpose one?

 

[5-90]

If you heat the part, you will probably wreck the temper - at least locally. The screw is easier to replace. Also, heating the screw will still force the hole open - but the screw recovers size just a shade more quickly, which is a point in your favour. Avoid heating the part if it's not easily replaceable - screws are far easier to source!

Earlier AT cooler lines use a variation on those stupid Ford-style quick-connects - they have Nylon ears that you squeeze to release the coupling. Check your fittings - you may have the same thing.

Nothing really wrong with that $4 leaf gage - but it won't always fit into a hole. Chances are good that the screws you need are M6-1.0 or M5-0.8, it's often easiest to keep a small assortment of small screws on hand anyhow. The "Thread Detective" I mentioned is a series of aluminum bungs that are marked for size, one end is threaded internally and the other externally. Simply run the screw into a bung or the bung into the nut or hole - make sure you can go at least two full turns.

"Slip joint" and "Channel locks" are two different tools. A "slip joint" plier is the common plier with the rivetted joint, and usually has only two positions. The "channel locks" have several adjustments and much larger jaws - you'll usually have 5-8 positions. I think hand tools are something that you should spend a few bucks on - so go check out name brands at your local hardware store.

Metal joining takes a number of forms:
- Mechanical. This is rivetting, screws, nuts & bolts, and the like.
- Adhesive. This is glues, epoxies, soldering, and brazing (the base metal doesn't get hot enough to melt/fuse, but the filler metal does. The fill alloy acts like a glue.)
- Fusion. This is welding - stick, MIG, TIG, and the like.

For a non-structural join, I'd use rivets to mechanically join them and then solder the joint line to seal it, a soldered joint can be painted just as a weldment can, so that takes care of that.

And, considering the thinness of the metal, I'd feel better about mechanically joining it (since there's more overlap needed,) which would give me a more thorough attachment.

Literature I'd suggest getting?

- MSC Direct catalogue. Free for the asking - www.mscdirect.com. Good prices, MRO supply (so they'd have plenty of useful stuff for fabrication - materials AND tools!
- Machinery's Handbook - it need not be a current edition (I think they're up to 29 or 30 now.) Anything 20th or later should be useful, and can be had secondhand for a good price - check eBay. It does a better job of explaining a lot of this stuff than I can, and having it on the shelf allows you to find the information at will (there's a good reason I have four different editions, starting with the 12th.)

 

[bimmerjeeper]

So, to patch a palm sized hole in the rocker, you're suggesting I look into a rivet and solder approach. Like this? http://www.harborfreight.com/3-in-1-riveter-kit-94100.html

I will invest in a good pair of ChannelLocks.

Thread Detective is $40. Not sure it's worth THAT much just to replace a screw.
I'd rather try the $4 gauge first. But, you're right, it can only identify screws I already have. Duh.
If I don't have the screw, then I need the kind you're talking about.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Thread-Size...Parts_Accessories&hash=item3ccb492cce&vxp=mtr
http://www.ebay.com/itm/METRIC-CHEC..._Automotive_Tools&hash=item3cca74c8cb&vxp=mtr
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Nut-Bolt-Th...813?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4abcb7a8cd

What's this for?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/METRIC-SCRE...323?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item20aaa97b3b

 

[bimmerjeeper]

For a non-structural join, I'd use rivets to mechanically join them and then solder the joint line to seal it, a soldered joint can be painted just as a weldment can, so that takes care of that.

I looked up what a rivet gun does.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0bGAiC0_i_k

I want to understand how to patch a hole in a rocker with rivets. Once you (somehow) prepare and cut out a repair patch, do you just overlap it over the hole? Then you drill a bunch of holes through both sheets? Then put a rivet into those holes?

If so, I see 2 problems.

1) Won't the overlaid patch not be flush to the panel? It will be raised since it's overlapped. Do you bondo this? Seems like a total hack job. If you don't overlay the patch panel, but make it an exact fit, I can see how a welder melts the 2 nearly touching panels together, but a rivet needs overlap. :huh:

2) Also, do you then grind down the rivet so it's flush? But if you grind it, isn't the rivet going to fall out (like grinding off a screw head)

 

[5-90]

So, to patch a palm sized hole in the rocker, you're suggesting I look into a rivet and solder approach. Like this? http://www.harborfreight.com/3-in-1-riveter-kit-94100.html

I will invest in a good pair of ChannelLocks.

Thread Detective is $40. Not sure it's worth THAT much just to replace a screw.
I'd rather try the $4 gauge first. But, you're right, it can only identify screws I already have. Duh.
If I don't have the screw, then I need the kind you're talking about.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Thread-Size...Parts_Accessories&hash=item3ccb492cce&vxp=mtr
http://www.ebay.com/itm/METRIC-CHEC..._Automotive_Tools&hash=item3cca74c8cb&vxp=mtr
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Nut-Bolt-Th...813?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4abcb7a8cd

What's this for?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/METRIC-SCRE...323?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item20aaa97b3b

I was considering a combination approach for improving the rockers - patching them would probably be soldering/leading (because I'm more used to that than I am to welding.)

If you want to look up how rivetting works, I suggest you look into aircraft construction - most aircraft fuselages are rivetted together.

As far as keeping things flush, there are a number of different rivet styles out there. Countersink for flat-head rivets, then fill.

Punching holes is as easy as lining up the parts and drilling. You just have to be sure to select a rivet with the proper "grip" to form a tight head and a secure hold.

 

[Talyn]

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3) Tap and die set. Used to re-create threads after drilling out a screw or bolt.

Hold off on the tap and die until you need it. Most of the bolts you will be breaking will be in captured nuts (think leaf spring mounts and rears hock mounts). However it is never a bad idea to clean out a thread.

4) Tap Socket set? What is this for? Should I get these?

pretty much self explanatory. Socket for a 3/8" ratchet drive do you have use a ratchet with a tap. Good for tight spaces.

5) Torch to heat bolts. I can't remember the type I was told to get.

MAP gas or if you have the $$$ oxy/acetylene.

6) Hose clamp pliers. I want to replace all 4 radiator hoses. Which should I get?

I prefer the one with the cable.

7) Impact screwdriver. Don't cheap out here?

I would hold off on this as well. Not many crucial screws on the XJ.

8) Quick disconnect tool (fuel and tranny lines)
I see 2 styles. Are these the same thing? Or are they for different uses?

I have three different sets. The two you listed are frequently too large to get in to the tight spaces. I find myself using the cheap ones more, like these: http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200396107_200396107?cm_mmc=Google-pla-_-Auto%20Repair-_-Specialty%20Tools-_-9094121&ci_sku=9094121&ci_gpa=pla&ci_kw={keyword}&gclid=CI3hh4iJvbMCFXCmPAod1VIAEQ

9) Pitch Gauge tool. Do I want 55 or 60 degree? Or both?

Nice to have, but not necessary. Most of the suspension and body is metric, engine is standard.

Get several different versions of 13mm, 14mm and 15mm wrenches. Ratcheting, offset, etc. Get a good ball style swivel as well. Like this: http://community.craftsman.com/Craf...nt-Socket-Adapter-3-8-in-Drive-reviews/topics and several different length 3/8" extensions.

Torque wrenches if you don't have them already.

For channel locks go with Knipex.