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Need a "US made" radiator source

I bet it's a thousand times harder to replace a radiator in a jeep than a BMW. Stupid hard to work on American junk.

Is there a "how to" thread on removing hose clamps? If not, ill start one, and then ill debate your suggestions because for some reason they don't work for me.
 
And possibly sue you guys for suggesting something that brought me physical pain?
 
I've never had those issues.

Me either and I've installed 4 of them. 3 in a 94 and 1 in my 98.

Why 3 in the 94? Lets just say I agree with the motor mount comment.
 
Some have said 3 row does not fit. Might depend on the year. Might be the brand also (radiatorbarn, CSF, etc)

I have read dozens of radiator threads, and have seen people get stuck for 2 hours on the quick disconnect fitting. Figure out which kind you have, and get the proper tool for it. Others have had fitment issues with the tranny line hose not being exactly in the right place, which will not work with hard steel lines. I have also seen people having to resort to hacksawing the tranny lines and flaring them with some special tool, whatever that means.

Like all jobs, nothing is ever as simple as forum braggarts like to pretend, so do your homework on the fitment of the radiator, and the repair job in general. It sucks to get stuck in the middle of the repair. I would only buy a radiator that someone with the same year has verified will fit, otherwise, stuck with OEM since you know it works.
 
Some have said 3 row does not fit. Might depend on the year. Might be the brand also (radiatorbarn, CSF, etc)

I have read dozens of radiator threads, and have seen people get stuck for 2 hours on the quick disconnect fitting. Figure out which kind you have, and get the proper tool for it. Others have had fitment issues with the tranny line hose not being exactly in the right place, which will not work with hard steel lines. I have also seen people having to resort to hacksawing the tranny lines and flaring them with some special tool, whatever that means.

Like all jobs, nothing is ever as simple as forum braggarts like to pretend, so do your homework on the fitment of the radiator, and the repair job in general. It sucks to get stuck in the middle of the repair. I would only buy a radiator that someone with the same year has verified will fit, otherwise, stuck with OEM since you know it works.

I've got a 5 speed so I've never dealt with the tranny lines.
 
Some have said 3 row does not fit. Might depend on the year. Might be the brand also (radiatorbarn, CSF, etc)

I have read dozens of radiator threads, and have seen people get stuck for 2 hours on the quick disconnect fitting. Figure out which kind you have, and get the proper tool for it. Others have had fitment issues with the tranny line hose not being exactly in the right place, which will not work with hard steel lines. I have also seen people having to resort to hacksawing the tranny lines and flaring them with some special tool, whatever that means.

Like all jobs, nothing is ever as simple as forum braggarts like to pretend, so do your homework on the fitment of the radiator, and the repair job in general. It sucks to get stuck in the middle of the repair. I would only buy a radiator that someone with the same year has verified will fit, otherwise, stuck with OEM since you know it works.


That seems to be an issue with jeeps that have been hacked on, modified.... which is more common with the jeeps. If the motor mounts are not solid it is an issue. The ZJ clutch upgrade makes it a very tight fit, almost too tight, and makes the install more time consuming.

I am under the impression there are only two all metal, brass 3 row Jeep XJ radiators made, they are made by CSF, the others are really 2 row and they lie about the actual number of rows. One has no radiator cap (87-90), the other has the radiator cap, 91-01. This applies to 4.0 XJs only!!! Some of the so called two row radiators are actually only one large row.
 
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CSF 2573/2671 For 91-01 XJ

OK, well doggone it - I was NOT so lucky - I still have a small seepage leak in one of my tanks. Being that it's the OEM Rad with 125k miles I cannot complain! I will swap it out before it just blows up! :eek:

I have a new Water Pump, Metal Pipe, and Ordered the CSF 3 row #2671 (old #2573) for my '91 - will flush the heater core same time (T-stat and housing already new). Looking forward to a worry free hot summer! :clap:

It is worth noting for those buying, that I found it on Amazon for $189 as another poster mentioned. You do not have to be disuaded by the application saying it fits a 98-01 only.

That old #2573 number was dropped for #2671 because the radiators are the same design for the 91-97 years, some sellers don't seem to be aware of this though. They said :huh: when I asked them so I called CSF.
 
Yay! CSF 3 row in and fit like a glove! Swapped the pump, pipe and flushed the heater core too - my cooling system is very happy! Temp gauge rides on the 3/8" area no matter 16% grade or downhill!
 
You replaced that rusty pipe in the front, near the water pump? Did you have to cut it off? Did you replace the pipe, or just use an extended heater core hose ?
 
You replaced that rusty pipe in the front, near the water pump? Did you have to cut it off? Did you replace the pipe, or just use an extended heater core hose ?

Thats my question that "pipe" looks to have deteriorated and leaking on my 2000 4.0. I need to do a overhaul of this area and these heater pipes scare me.

I found the Gates hoses on amazon while looking for high pressure line for the power steering. Looks like all the rubber and hoses that are "original" are starting to go and leak.

Is there a good write up to do all this heater core lines that run from the thermostat housing or things to know?
 
You replaced that rusty pipe in the front, near the water pump? Did you have to cut it off? Did you replace the pipe, or just use an extended heater core hose ?

Yes I replaced the whole pipe - Napa was the only one I could get my hands on that didn't seem like crap, so I used that. I don't think you can thread this thing on with the water pump on the motor, but you could just run the straight part of it if needed - maybe use a flare tool to give the end a lip to hold the hose.

Thats my question that "pipe" looks to have deteriorated and leaking on my 2000 4.0. I need to do a overhaul of this area and these heater pipes scare me.

I found the Gates hoses on amazon while looking for high pressure line for the power steering. Looks like all the rubber and hoses that are "original" are starting to go and leak.

Is there a good write up to do all this heater core lines that run from the thermostat housing or things to know?

Many people just toss that vacuum heater core valve - mine was leaking so I replaced it, but next time it screws up I may also toss it. If you are Keeping it, you may need a couple special short hoses with preformed elbows - sometimes Napa stocks one you can cut to length. The rest you can just buy like 8 foot of heater hose and go to town with some new Tridon screw clamps.

If you swap heater hose don't miss the chance to flush / back flush your heater core.
 
The 97+ XJs don't have the heater control valve. Replacing the hoses is fool-proof on them; they are molded to fit, and are different lengths, sizes, and shapes.
 
For reference, (water pump inlet tube) at the front of the engine near the pulleys that a heater core line (the 2 smaller coolant hoses) goes into.

2u6cy0p.jpg
2czqyv5.jpg
 
looks like mine.

Nice and crusty.

These seem to be what i need from gates? for a 2000 I will be able to do the all hoses and a flush of the heater core?

http://www.amazon.com/Dorman-56398-Water-Pump-Inlet/dp/B001C6JCU0/ref=pd_ybh_22

http://www.amazon.com/Gates-19039-Heater-Hose/dp/B000C2U9BG/ref=pd_ybh_23

http://www.amazon.com/Gates-19038-Heater-Hose/dp/B000C2S85K/ref=pd_ybh_25

Is gates a good brand? and it looks like there are not any "connectors" on the second two hoses, my jeep is getting painted right now, driving me crazy cause I just need to go look at all the parts under the hood but I wanna get a jump on ordering these parts.

Just ordered t-stat, t-stat housing and power steering high pressure line. good times!
 
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