Mystery oil or no??

[5-90]

I've been using MMO periodicially in various vehicles for a number of years - it hasn't caused any trouble.

I've noted that B12 will help for a "deep cleaning," and the ATF Type F suggestion is sound (it's very high-detergent - also makes a good ersatz handl cleaner...) but note that engine seals aren't formulated to deal with that much detergent, that long, in that light of a carrier oil (ATF is based with a 10 viscosity oil - fixed weight.) Even odds on older engines developing leaks at the front main, rear main, &/or valve guide seals as a result (but they're relatively easy fixes, if you know what you're about - and were probably on the way out anyhow.)

MMO is a more "gentle" fix, and about every third or fourth oil change, I'll replace one quart of engine oil with one quart of MMO, and run normally. 87 through 89 XJs, anywhere from 160 to 280Kmiles on the clock. I've only had to pull one head, and that was because the lifters were packed with paraffin from the previous owner using either Pennzoil or Quaker State (probably Pennzoil - I won't use the stuff in a two-stroke lawnmower!) MMO wouldn't have fixed that - the only fix was replacement.

 

[Flash]

Have never used MMO..... and ATF work for me. if you don't have a cat it work grate down the throat of the TB to...just pic a wide open area to do it inassgas:


Restore Is not meant to fix a lifter tick but did wonders for my poor old 89 XJ with over 300,000 on the clock. i never by any vehicle with out it having at least 100,000 on the clock(i will by now wine.......auto:roflmao: before it time.) and have had good results every time i have us it


Flash

 

[Blaine B.]

Why, is ATF harmful to a cat? I've run seafoam down the TB before.......

 

[5-90]

Why, is ATF harmful to a cat? I've run seafoam down the TB before.......

Not directly - but "burned" oil can coat the matrix inside the cat, reducing (or eliminating!) its function.

Same goes for "de-carbonising" an engine - all that carbon wants to go somewhere. Since it's not in the cylinders anymore, it's going to gown down the stream looking for something else - usually the catalytic converter ceramic matrix. If you're going to blow the carbon out of your engine, it's better to do so sitting still (using something like a fine water mist in the throttle body) with the catalytic converter disconnected. Repeat until the black clouds go away. Reconnect the catalytic converter, and drive normally.

 

[Professor Bobo]

I've used MMO, Lucas, Amsoil, Rislone(sp?) and several others (stp etc.) Tranny fluid/oil flush. Kerosene/oil flush. Amsoil full synthetic oil to WalMarts house brand oil and filters. Casite $1.99 filters, Fram and K&N. My XJ has close to 275K on it and rattles the same either way. I must say that MMO does smell the nicest of them all! LOL!
Like wintergreen or something.

 

[ratman572]

For whatever it's worth, I just substituted a quart of MMO the last time I changed my oil, -and my valvetrain is getting noticeably quieter.

It's been in there less than 100 miles.

I'd have to say it's doing what it's supposed to.

So far, I gotta say, I'm impressed.

 

[miketyson]

how far are you guys driving w/ it in there? i was told if you do it for too long the freed up gunk will clog the wrong holes and cause pretty big problems

 

[UNCC_99XJ]

how far are you guys driving w/ it in there? i was told if you do it for too long the freed up gunk will clog the wrong holes and cause pretty big problems

I usually run it for the entire oil change.

 

[75SV1]

I don't know about the MMO. The Berrymann's I think 500 miles max. The ATF, 300-500 miles. The Auto RX is 1500 miles change oil, run a rinse cycle of oil for 1500 miles and repeate on a dirty engine. I think Risolene you can run through a complete oil change 3K miles. I'd read the directions though.
Tom

 

[Rick Anderson]

Ever tried to clean up a dirty, gunked up part by spraying some sort of solvent on it?

Sometimes, it blast clean with the solvent alone, like new.

Sometime, the dirt is too stuborn, it won't come off unless you scrub it.

Sometimes, the dirt comes apart gets muddy and gets everywhere, in places that you didn't want it to go, and made more of a mess.

Thats what happens in your engine when you put in additives designed to free sticking from varnish and gumming. Sometimes the varnish is thin enough it just disolves and you get great results. Sometimes the gum/varnish is too stubborn, and it doesn't really help at all. Somtimes the gum/varnish is thick and loose and the additive breaks it up and makes a mess that might be a problem.

I'm not a big fan of "Your Motor/Trans is being held together by the gum and dirt in it, do anything to clean it up, it will fall apart". I'm sure it can happen, but its rare and if it does happen, its was a matter of time anyway, if things are that bad. Besides, quick inspection of pulling a valve cover ought to tell you if the motor is so bad, its going to eat itself.

Sure, try these thing, but just be careful. I would think the biggest risk of these additives is the fact that they are solvents or heavy cleaning agents in some way, and mixing oil with solvents or drastically changing the formulation is NOT that good for oil that is protecting your engine. I'd only try these for a short period and I would keep the demands on the motor low while its in there.

 

[Blaine B.]

I've heard transmission fluid is a good engine cleaner too.

What if you ran your engine on straight marvel?

 

[Rick Anderson]

ATF has the same base stock as motor oil, but a different additives package with lots more cleaning agents.

The best way to lubricate your motor is too use good quality Motor Oil designed just for that. Your NOT going to figure out some miracle formulation that is better than the Oil Companies spend billions in research to produce. Any additive is far more likely to compromise that superior lubrication the oil companies provide. Of course, if you have some problem that has developed, that perhaps, with some luck, an additive may help (unlikely) YOUR ONLY MAKING A TRADEOFF BETWEEN PROPER LUBRICATION AND TREATING THE PROBLEM.

I don't like the idea of compromising the lubrication on my vehicle, I'd only use as much additive that could cure the problem and never more.

SO, don't try to run your motor on pure ATF or MMO, its not designed for that, MMO is just a small amount to regular oil, ATF is NOT designed for a motor in anyway, its just a trick to make a custom formulation with lots of cleaning agents to clean the crankcase. I'm sure ATF mixed with the oil would fail well before straight oil.

 

[Ecomike]

Many years ago I used Risolene both as a full time oil additive and as a pre-oil change (100 miles before the oil change) additive. I think it is more aggressive or solvent like than MM oil. I have used MM oil the last 10 years but only as an oil additive with an oil and filter change. I have noticed that I consume about a quart of oil in the first 1000 miles when I use just oil and MMO for one of the quarts of oil. I think a good bit of the MM oil burns off during that time. But during that time it seems to help clean and lube areas better in the valve train and lifters before it gets consumed. I assume that stuff ends up in the new filter or disolved in the oil. I like others here typically buy old, high mileage and sometimes abused vehicles and I use additives like MMO to bring the engine back to life.

Synthetic oil may not need MM oil, as it sounds like from what I have read about say Mobil 1, that it works like a dyno oil with MM oil added as far as engine cleaning and lubing of upper valve and lifter areas goes.

I probably would not use it on a newer well maintained engine using synthetic oil like Mobil 1. Its just not needed. But I do use it regularly with Dyno oil and Lucas oil additive. I find that a 50/50 mix of Lucas oil additive and MMO (1/2 to 1 quart of each to replace 1 to 2 quarts of oil) works better than either one alone as far as quiting down the problem (noise) areas in my older engines and the mix seems to eliminate the oil consumption I see with a fresh oil change and MMO only.

 

[Ecomike]

Many years ago I used Risolene both as a full time oil additive and as a pre-oil change (100 miles before the oil change) additive. I think it is more aggressive or solvent like than MM oil. I have used MM oil the last 10 years but only as an oil additive with an oil and filter change. I have noticed that I consume about a quart of oil in the first 1000 miles when I use just oil and MMO for one of the quarts of oil. I think a good bit of the MM oil burns off during that time. But during that time it seems to help clean and lube areas better in the valve train and lifters before it gets consumed. I assume that stuff ends up in the new filter or disolved in the oil. I like others here typically buy old, high mileage and sometimes abused vehicles and I use additives like MMO to bring the engine back to life.

Synthetic oil may not need MM oil, as it sounds like from what I have read about say Mobil 1, that it works like a dyno oil with MM oil added as far as engine cleaning and lubing of upper valve and lifter areas goes.

I probably would not use it on a newer well maintained engine using synthetic oil like Mobil 1. Its just not needed. But I do use it regularly with Dyno oil and Lucas oil additive. I find that a 50/50 mix of Lucas oil additive and MMO (1/2 to 1 quart of each to replace 1 to 2 quarts of oil) works better than either one alone as far as quiting down the problem (noise) areas in my older engines and the mix seems to eliminate the oil consumption I see with a fresh oil change and MMO only.

 

[dizzymac]

Change your oil and filter and replace one qt. of oil with MMO. Leave it in until your next change. If you have lifter noise and the MMO quiets it b-4 your next sched. service, change the oil early if you are worried about leaving it in there.
I always leave in for the full 3k. I have used it on numerous vehicles and never had any adverse effects. You can even add it to your fuel tank, I've never done this on an FI motor but have on a carb. aspirated motor.