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my wierd wj/xj hatch-on-a-xj trailer project

xuv-this

bondo afficianado
Location
southwest VA.
before the server crashed earlier this month, i had a thread about chopping up an xj hatch, mating it with the opening window part of a wj hatch, and using the contraption to fill this hole:
DCP00346.jpg

several people requested to see pics of the ongoing progress, so here goes:




this is what i started with: a 99' xj hatch and a 00' wj hatch.

DCP00412.jpg





it must of taken 12 different tools to dissassemble the glass/needed parts fron the wj hatch...
DCP00413.jpg





here is what i am going to combine:
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here the tools i used to cut the two were ofcourse a tape measure and sharpie marker (not shown) left hand cut metal shears, cut off wheel, plasma cutter, and of course the classic grinder.
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the two peices cut and being fitted together:

DCP00426.jpg


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patch /tie-in peices were cut, fitted, and welded from sheetmetal....

DCP00427.jpg





kere it cannot be seen, but the wj glass hinge mounts were braced from the inside before any cut or weld around them was made. if they don't keep their exact original positions, the hinges will be sprung out of whack, and the glass will not seal to the (removed of course)weatherstrip.
DCP00428.jpg






not even close to fitting! i pounded the pinch seam on the trailer flat to it's piller, and below the window, where that distinct bodyline carries accross the side of all xj's and ties into the hatch, the hatch changes angle.where the hatch swoops around the side at this point(just above where the taillights go(were) on the hatch), i cut a slit to allow me to straighten that line across the front on each side.i also had to trim the inside a bit too.
DCP00431.jpg




if you notice the cut made in the top outside corner of the hatch, the hatch was roughly 3/4 of an inch too narrow on each side! i heated the entire side edge with a torch and used a slide hammer too pull each side out. the glass is back on here for test fittingthe hatch, the gap on each side of the glass under the window seam needs to be consistant to insure that it will seal to the window gasket. when the hatch is pulled onto the pillars and is tack welded, that gap becomes pretty imporntant (in addition to the tape measure) to tell you if it is straight.
DCP00433.jpg




here we go!the hatch is also too short on the sides to reach all the way to the door, so another 18 gauge strip had to be added:
DCP00432.jpg






 
here is the roof tied in. i cut little strips out of the sides of the roof ridges, bent the ends down, lined up the line with tack welds so i had a perfectly flush seam, and used about 1/3 of a tank of argon welding gas on this one seam...

DCP00435.jpg




here's the inside of the contraption, before "skinning" it. note the reinforcement welds on the sides. this pic doesn't show it very well, but basicly, where the structure was cut on the hatch, it was reinforced.
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and after skinning. i used a harbor freight press brake to bend the peice that runs along the very top; the headliner will slide into that slot, and carpet will cover all of this sheetmetal.
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and heres where i'm at now: the $1 flat black spray paint really helps to gauge the bodylines while i'm working.
DCP00440.jpg
 
man thats a lot of work, but i like it! put some seats in there and an intercom system and you can throw the kids back there :D

lookin good man!
 
yes it is a trailer. and about 5 times the work that i originally thought it was going to be:looney:
 
I know this thread is 3 years old but the OP is still a red name, so I thought I'd bump this and see if he ever finished it. So did he?
 
the water tank is from a camco rv catalog, and located under the floor in the front. the gas tank is still there, it was plumbed so i can refuel from it.
 
is it just a stock XJ 20gal?
 
hey, it's been a while since i've been on here, but there have been a couple of requests for more pics of some stuff, so here yall go:
enjoy!

TONGUE FAB:

welded c channel to table, notched, heated and bent to height, tack welded brace from table to top/end of channel to prevent warping, welded notch closed:
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set width of tongue, crosspeice here is temporary for setting up and squaring:
DCP00306.jpg



brace base plug welded into b pillar:
DCP00313.jpg



reinforcement into uniframe-plate bolted through 2 layers of sheetmetal, silicone sealent underneath:
DCP00330.jpg


underside view of uniframe reinforcement. the 3" angle iron was notched, heated, plug welded along frame, heated again and persuaded with BFH into a fitment i was happy with, then finish welded.
DCP00314.jpg



floor tunnel was cut, flattened, sheetmetal was bent around the angle iron leading edge and welded. i later learned that dollar store spray paint is great for protecting bare metal from 2 weeks of surface rust in a humid environment.
DCP00334.jpg



some structure reinforcement, also the frame of the cargo box:
DCP00337.jpg



another view from the outside, after some more stuff:
DCP00340.jpg



view underneath:
DCP00345.jpg



framework on the inside, b pillars are essentially reinforced to wheelwells:
DCP00338.jpg




floor/ floor cargo compartment door framework:
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mostly finished framework, almost ready for inside sheetmetal:

DCP00342.jpg
 
I know this is an OLD thread, but I LOVE this trailer. It's probly the first one I've seen that's been finished off cleanly. I'll be borrowing heavily from this project! Any plans on putting a Roof Top Tent on this?
 
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