5-90
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Hammerspace
alex22 said:
Cool - more AMC six cams! Nice to see they also do 'sticks for the AMC150, and they've got listings for Willys - have to see if they cover the old 134ci, out of professional curiosity...
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My Crane cam lift numbers
- Thread starter jeepinwi
- Start date
Cool - more AMC six cams! Nice to see they also do 'sticks for the AMC150, and they've got listings for Willys - have to see if they cover the old 134ci, out of professional curiosity...
Flash
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Evanston Wy
Thanks for the link Alex.:thumbup: :thumbup:alex22 said:
I see it was a good link for you too, Jon
- Location
- Desert Beach So Cal
alex22 said:
http://www.joegibbshotrodoil.com/
BTW, I have over 40,000 miles on the Isky 133125 in my 88 (YMMV).
alex22
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- CT: waterbury area
Its called "HOTROD" oil. We got a few cases in at the shop the other day. It has not been invintoried yet so no price listed yet. I'll use either that or the Brad Penn stuff, whichever is cheaper.
:clap:
~Alex
:clap:
~Alex
- Location
- Desert Beach So Cal
1bolt said:
:shocked:
You only need it during the extended break-in after you dump the EOS that was put in with the start up oil (the first two to four hours), for the first 500 miles or ten hours (or whatever you are comfortable with). After that the older flat tappet diesel spec oil has enough ZDP to keep the lifter faces happy.
The only other thing to consider is to use light force springs (those old stock springs) for the cam break-in and keep the rpm between 1600 and ~3500 rpm for the first few hours of engine operation (change the springs when you change the start up oil & filter).
Details and proactive labor help.
corbinafly
"Mmmm. More please."
- Location
- lakewood,ca
Not a good idea to run sythetic at all until you know for sure that the rings have all sealed correctly. I would stay away from synthetic until at least 1000 miles.Ed A. Stevens said:
alex22
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- CT: waterbury area
I would stay away from synthetic oils with Flat Tappet cams. Its just too slick and it could cause you greif later on.
~Alex
~Alex
Flash
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Evanston Wy
alex22 said:
+2, some people get a way with it. but i wouldn't. Even after a 1000 miles on a fresh rebuild.
Flash
What is too slick and how does it adversely effect an engine? Come on guys I know you all are smarter than that... Sure don't use it for break in because it will take longer to seat the rings, but after that there's no such thing as too slick. and the only good reason not to use a real synthetic oil is economic or purely practical (like your driving conditions warrent very short oil change intervals)
Flash
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Evanston Wy
THIS IS MY APPINON ONLY but if your eng runs a 220 or less........SYN.(SYNTHETIC) is a waste of time and$$$$$$.............In sub 0 temps there is definitely an advantage to a thinner oil........but it doesn't have to be syn.
in extreme heat or cold syn SHINE!!!!!!! there is no better oil for usable viscosity when your in the extremes of the temp scale, all the rest of the the time......in between the two evils, conventional oils are equal, as far as ware and tear of a eng go's
a Flat tappet lifter MUST continue to rotate as the cam lobe slides across it. If the oil is "to slippery" for the lack of a better description, the cam slide on the lifter with out the lifter rotating...........this =immediate death to the cam and lifters.(I know, i know, if its slippery then it wouldn't need to rotate RIGHT?...........ask a cam manufacturer......they have way more knowledge then I.) Roller Cam do not have this problem and could be use during cam brake in with out ill problems..........................don't believe me? go on any cam manufacturers sight and read how to brake in a cam......................
ZDDP, which is what allows the cam to slide with out ware.........and is what is all but missing in the new oil recipe........and for what ever reason, syn seam to have the least amount of the "forbidden" additive ZDDP.
I'm not a syn hater, my front/rear t-case and tranny all have syn in then.
I just won't put it in a FLAT TAPPET eng.
Flash.
in extreme heat or cold syn SHINE!!!!!!! there is no better oil for usable viscosity when your in the extremes of the temp scale, all the rest of the the time......in between the two evils, conventional oils are equal, as far as ware and tear of a eng go's
a Flat tappet lifter MUST continue to rotate as the cam lobe slides across it. If the oil is "to slippery" for the lack of a better description, the cam slide on the lifter with out the lifter rotating...........this =immediate death to the cam and lifters.(I know, i know, if its slippery then it wouldn't need to rotate RIGHT?...........ask a cam manufacturer......they have way more knowledge then I.) Roller Cam do not have this problem and could be use during cam brake in with out ill problems..........................don't believe me? go on any cam manufacturers sight and read how to brake in a cam......................
ZDDP, which is what allows the cam to slide with out ware.........and is what is all but missing in the new oil recipe........and for what ever reason, syn seam to have the least amount of the "forbidden" additive ZDDP.
I'm not a syn hater, my front/rear t-case and tranny all have syn in then.
I just won't put it in a FLAT TAPPET eng.
Flash.
5-90
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Hammerspace
1bolt said:
If the oil manages to impair tappet rotation or valve rotation, it's "too slick" and will cause trouble.
The bad rep synthetics get ("Synthetic causes leaks!") is usually from the fact that it manages to clean the sludge off of a partially failed seal, and that sludge had been helping the seal hold oil in. No sludge? No seal.
Granted, pretty much all spark-ignition engines should be run-in on 30-wt "non-detergent" oil, and I'll run a new engine on dead dinosaurs for the first 20-30Kmiles or so (to get the rings seated well. Moly barrel-faced rings take rather longer than cast iron...) But, switching to synthetic after that should not pose any trouble - and I've not run across valvegear rotation failures as a result of synthetic oil so far.
How do tappets rotate in an engine? Check the surface - it ain't flat. It's got a slight "crown" - a circle with a radius of five to ten feet. The cam lobe itself has a very slight taper to it - if you look carefully at a well-used cam, you can see a slight "polished" band just off-centre of the lobe, and the tappet foot will have a polished spot on it to match.
Why do tappets rotate? Similar reason to the odd gear ratios in axles - to keep presenting fresh contact surfaces, and to reduce/decelerate parts wear.
This is also why you can't use a "flat tappet" cam with roller tappets - roller tappet camshafts are not tapered, since the tappet doesn't rotate (the tappets are also tied together in pairs.) Using the tapered cam with a roller tappet will result in wearing through the roller foot of the tappet - just like a roller tappet cam will fail almost immediately with flat tappets (from one of two possible causes - either the ramp is too steep, or the tappet won't rotate in the bore.)
corbinafly
"Mmmm. More please."
- Location
- lakewood,ca
If the oil is that slick, wouldn't you think that it would also require less effort to rotate in the lifter bore as well?? So I think the "slickness" of synth would cancel out the "lack of lifter rotation".Flash said:
5-90
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Hammerspace
corbinafly said:
It's possible - as I've said, I've not seen any trouble with lack of rotation in engines running synthetic (or even semi-synthetic) over dead dinosaurs.
However, the usual cause for a lifter to not rotate is varnish buildup in the bore - and if that happens, it doesn't take long to wreck the lifter. Synthetic usually won't clean the varnish out fast enough to help.
