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My 97 XJ Sport build

rooneypower said:
OK update..

3" spring pack kit (Rustys) $418.00 - Some swear by Rusty's, most swear at him. Never had to use him so can't say for sure...

JKS Quick Disconnects $127.00 - do Quicker Discos, or better yet, fab your own. They're easy to do and cost like $20...

Pitman drop (do i need one?) $59.00 - nope.

T case Drop (do i need one?) $20.00
A/A SYE w/ Tom Woods driveshaft (do i need one?) $480.00

Okay. Here's where things get hairy. I own a 2000 Jeep XJ with 4" of lift that initially started out a Skycrapper and ended up piecemeal. I'm not running an SYE OR a t-case drop, although I will be popping in a drop here shortly (mostly preventative maintenance). Why is that? I've NEVER developed driveline vibes or death wobble. It's not to say that I won't EVER get it, It's just not happened yet. With 4.5"? START with the t-case drop. Buy it AND DON'T put it on. Completely install the lift kit, get the front-end balanced AND aligned, take it on the highway, and open 'er up. If death wobble be waitin' fer ya, it won't take long to feel it. If it comes THEN install the t-case drop, and then take it for another drive. If the problem worsens you'll need the SYE. If it improves vastly, you didn't throw money at a phantom problem. Nuff said.

2" shackles (non greaseable) $49.95 - No. Get greasables. Seriously. Unless you like to listen to squeaking ALL THE TIME.

1 3/4" coil spacers + $40.95 - since you've been shaving money off on other things, DO THIS RIGHT. Get 4" springs right from the get-go. If you're looking to go higher down the road, buy yourself a set of ACOS's later on (Adjustable Coil Over Spacers). Then you can adjust the ride height in the front to compensate for loads like an aftermarket bumper and winch.

NEEDED ITEMS:

You have to have these when putting on a kit this size.

New Lower Control Arms - Your stock control arms aren't gonna stretch to accomodate that 4" of lift. (EDIT: Double-check this. I did one when I lifted mine, but it might not be as necessary. If you DO need one, get adjustables.)

Trackbar relocation bracket - That bar's gonna get in the way of your suspension.

NEW SHOCKS - Either hydro or nitro gas shocks, depending on your mood.

OTHER ITEMS:

Okay. Here is a small list of stuff that is optional but could really help your Jeep-modding life a little more.

DPG Offroad Bumpstop Plates - These are a lifesaver. They keep you from continuously "bottoming out" your rear axle and overflexing your leaf pack. They mount at the u-bolts and bump against your bumpstops when you flex your leaf pack. Saves wear and tear on your rear suspension and it's also adjustable!!!

Bar Pin Eliminators (BPE's) - Like quick dosconnects, you can either buy these or fashion your own. Ever had to swap out shocks? Ever had to rebore and tap a %^&# shock bolthole because the damn thing rusted itself in the hole and snapped when you went to remove them? You more than likely will in this kit, so add these on anyway. They mount where your shock crosspin goes (at the bottom near the coils in the front, and at the undercarriage in the back), and make your life easier if you have to swap out shocks for varying ride heights.

Tow Points - Dependent on what you're doing, either rock-crawling, mudding, or mallin'. If you intend to wheel that thing, you're gonna need recovery points. Places for d-shackles and tow hooks front AND back are a necessity. In the rear, a towing kit is all that is needed to give you a rear anchor. On the front, consider mounting tow hooks to the frame. Even if you never get stuck, you can always save someone else... :D

SKID PLATES/ROCK RAILS - I don't care if you never take your rig into a rock garden or not, even BASIC trailing you'll come across an area where you might scrape something, either the diffs, the LCA's, the undercarriage, especially your gas tank, which is highly susceptable to denting/punctures due to its inconvenient location. At the very least, a gas tank skid will keep you from losing fuel economy when you score that big hit in the rear coming off of a rock (the dent takes up room inside the tank that gas would normally accomodate), or at the very least, save yourself from leaking gas all the way back to the trailhead after puncturing your tank on a log you straddled on the trail. And the rock rails? You're investing in a Hi-Lift, how are you gonna jack that beast up? Not on the side of the body.

Hope all this helps you. :D :wierd:
 
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Go RE, had both RE and Crustys, RE all the way.

RE 3.5" will net you 4.5"
RE 4.5" will net 5.5" or more.

RE is the same price as Rustys if you add all the stuff you get wit hRE to Rustys. My RE 4.5" was $1200 shipped with ADJ. UCAs, JKS discos and HD tracbar with mount.

RE 4.5" with 33x12.50s:

4727_3.JPG


same with 35x12.50s:

47ce_3.JPG
 
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if you get AAL (add-a-leafs) it will probably sag. If you go with full leaf packs, then I wouldn't worry about them sagging. I run a RE 3.5" kit with full leaves and a shackle in the back. My fenders are trimmed and I am running 35's with no rubbing and properly bumpstopped. Stay away from Rustys, RE is much higher quality. You might need an SYE, you might not.
 
no drop pitman arm and you kinda just have to lift it and see whether you need an SYE or not.

I ran a 5" BDS lift with coils, spacers, add a leafs and blocks on my XJ before I installed my RE 3.5" lift and had no vibes with a t case drop. But once I installed the RE kit, I had wicked vibes. I tossed the t case drop and installed an RE Hack and Tap SYE, a DPG Offroad Driveshaft, and shims and the vibes went away completely.

If you don't actually plan on wheeling the XJ, then just do a BB and call it done. There is no point in lifting the XJ to make it look all cool and then not using it to its full potential. You are just throwing money away on parts that won't get used and making the gas mileage worse. Its kinda like wiping before you poop, pointless!!!! If you wanna wheel it, then ya, lift it, re-gear it, buy new shocks, get a roof rack, etc. Just my .02
 
rooneypower said:
ok how do i dertermine if i need a SYE and or driveshaft? And no pitman drop and t case drop either??


On a 97+ I'd bet you'll need an SYE with being lifted an actual 4.5" or so. Make sure you got that cash saved before you lift, I'd say a 90% chance you'll need one. Probably baaad vibes without a t-case drop and still pretty decent vibes with a drop, which over time will add alot of wear and tear. Just do it right.

Of course I'd say to regear too when going with a 32" tire or bigger and you mine as well add lockers while you're in there :D Kinda like the guy who burnt up his AW4 and was pissed since he "heard" it was bulletproof, of course he was running 35s and stock 3.55 gearing lol.
 
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alright, then i guess i will pony out the benjamins and buy the RE 3.5" lift and (what SYE should i buy, wut about driveshaft?) SYE, And the above mentioned parts.

Please answer question about SYE and Driveshaft.

Then i want to put some fenders on it that will add a kick to it. I was thinkin gettin some fenders and paintin to match the color of my car?
What are some good/cheap fenders for this kind of an idea.
I also like those fenders for the front that have you replace the entire front pannel, that is one piece of steel. Are those a quality fender? (i want flex cause i WILL be wheelin with this rig)
 
rooneypower said:
alright, then i guess i will pony out the benjamins and buy the RE 3.5" lift and (what SYE should i buy, wut about driveshaft?) SYE, And the above mentioned parts.

Please answer question about SYE and Driveshaft.

Then i want to put some fenders on it that will add a kick to it. I was thinkin gettin some fenders and paintin to match the color of my car?
What are some good/cheap fenders for this kind of an idea.
I also like those fenders for the front that have you replace the entire front pannel, that is one piece of steel. Are those a quality fender? (i want flex cause i WILL be wheelin with this rig)

Call RE and get the lift directly from them, ask them about the SYE and driveshaft. They will have you take some measurements on your Jeep and everything will come together.
 
rooneypower said:
alright, then i guess my mommy and daddy will pony out the benjamins and buy the RE 3.5" lift and (what SYE should i buy, wut about driveshaft?) SYE, And the above mentioned parts.

fixed it for you
 
na man fawk u im making all of this money. but i dont know how long it will take to save up cause i keep spendin all my quarters on your mom

u can go chill with your dad, he's lonely, you would get along with michael Jackson
 
As I mentioned earlier, no sagging with a sub box if you install full springs. If you did sag, then throw a shackle in the rear.

You can either do an RE Hack and Tap SYE (which I run and is much cheaper) or you can do a full SYE which replaces the tailshaft on the back of the transfer case. Plan on needing an SYE and a driveshaft just so you have the money saved up. Driveshafts are about $300. My RE Hack and Tap SYE and DPG Offroad driveshaft was about $400 total.

You can install bushwackers if you wanna look cool, but in my opinion they are a waste of $400 and look ridiculous. I would skip the flares and either re-gear, do an SYE, or buy some high-end shocks like RE Monotubes or OME Nitros.

All of the questions you are asking have been answered many times, SEARCH!!!!!! Good luck and post up pics when you get it lifted. Cheers!
 
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