Here's a friendly reminder folks. Stock length arms, mounted in stock locations, at 4.5"+ of lift are going to give you problems. When you hit a bump in the road, the force vectors begin to transmit bumps directly into the control arms rather than into the coil springs. Now, instead of the suspension moving, and since the control arm can't move, the force is transmitted to the tires and steering. OK, so that begins their movement.
The larger the tire, the harder it is to get moving, but conversely, the harder it is to stop moving. This whole thing is made worse by poor Panhard bar angles (where a significant portion of it's travel is horizontal rather than vertical), poor drag link angles, or both. The steeper the drag link angle, in particular, the worse off you will be, as the DW acts upon the dead spot that exists in most solid axle steering sytems. The wobble, in effect, oscillates in the dead spot, between the points where you can feel it.
Now, your poor control arm angle is going to fawk you again, ready?
As the control arms travel, a much greater proportion of their travel is in the horizontal axis rather than the vertical. In essence, when you hit a bump, the control arms must travel forward AND up in order to compress the spring. The forward portion of the travel sets up an axle steer situation, whereby as one side is compressed, the axle steers the opposite direction. You correct by turning back the other way, which now sets the axle steering in the opposite direction again. You end up chasing axle steer all the way down the road, as well as fighting DW along the way.
Moral of the story. Build your junk correctly. Correct steering and Panhard angles by using aftermarket knuckles and Panhard mounts. Keep your junk below 4.5" of lift on OEM control arm mounts.
And it wouldn't hurt to stock some Depends products for that unexpected wobble.
CRASH
P.S. This is not directed at OliveDrab specifically, but the interlopers on this thread.