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made some tow hook mounts...

honestly the welds are decent, take a closer look

you really can not see anything in the pics I post... here look at these new ones I took 10 mins ago


I mean there is a lot of platter from the flux core, but that does not really matter...

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I know that you started with a receiver mounted hook, but where is the hitch pin? You said that it's "perma-welded" in place but the welds look questionable. Other than that, a class II hitch has quite a few less mounting points than a class III. If anything, I'd at least drill some holes in your hitch tube and run a pin through it. You can "perma-weld" the hitch pin if you want.

DrawTite Class III hitch
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xcm,

I was joking about my duty-cycle. My welder sucks, but I admittedly suck at welding. I stick to welding small things that have nothing to do with recovery, suspension, etc.

well there is 6 mounting holes in my hitch

hitch pin? where would I put that? there is NO hitch tube

so you 'admittedly suck' at welding and you are giving me welding advice? Seems kinda shady if you ask me

I am NOT a new welder... I am new to THIS welder and I am still using flux core with this welder... I just have not scrapped up the dough for a regulator and a bottle... but for doing thicker steel, honestly flux work pretty darn well... I would not use it on thin stuff though
 
Check your polarity. On the inside of the welder there should be a guide. Make sure its set up for flux core.
I may be backwards but if i remember right the ground needs to be positive and the gun is negative for flux core. Is it a 220 or a 110?
 
A Class 3 hitch is definitely a better starting point. add a hook/d-ring receiver insert and voila!
Want to buy some front tow hook brackets?
 
Spatter... not such a problem

Excessive porosity however is quite a problem:wierd:

yes but that can sometimes just be the nature of the beast with flux core

but swirling movements while welding tend to help...

it also does not help that I am starting with an older oxidized receiver... you can only prep it so well...

either way... I am not too worried about it...

who knows, maybe I am wrong... I think time will tell
 
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Maybe reverse it and see if you get less spatter. Also start low with your wire speed and amps until you get less spatter. I am guessing .30 wire?


it's nice to see someone on here that is willing to offer actual information instead of talking out of their bums, it is getting rare these days

I tend to use .35 but yes I was using .30 this time... just had a spool of it laying around, came with the welder, some china made wire, could be part of the problem... I had not even considered that until you mentioned the wire... :doh:
 
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People aren't talking out of their bums just cuz they disagree with you. You've had some very skilled people chime in with advice, be careful about who you dismiss.
 
People aren't talking out of their bums just cuz they disagree with you. You've had some very skilled people chime in with advice, be careful about who you dismiss.

the problem is in post 1 you really can not see the welds... yet people gave their 'expert' opinions

91to99 gave an opinion and made useful suggestions...

a few other people recommended either upgrading the hitch or tying into the rear 2 holes... again, good advise...

or the people at the start who told me that it was a bad idea to run only 2 bolts through the unibody... great advice... it caused me to rework my rear recovery hook, and soon my front hook
 
well there is 6 mounting holes in my hitch
Well you can't argue that 8 isn't better. I'm sure the extra length of the class III mounting points help to spread the load. The fact is that a class II is rated for less weight for a reason. Pulling a trailer with wheels is a lot different than having someone yank on an immobile XJ (or vice versa).

hitch pin? where would I put that? there is NO hitch tube

Oh I see what you did now. Since you ground off all the paint on the receiver hook and not on the hook itself, it looked like you slid the hook into some receiver tube and welded it on. I see now that you are covering alot more surface area by welding the whole hook and body to the crossbar. Your welding surface area is about the same as a typical hitch setup, if not more with those extra gussets that you added.

so you 'admittedly suck' at welding and you are giving me welding advice? Seems kinda shady if you ask me

Firstly, I never once gave you welding advice. I gave you advice on how to improve your design, as have others. I think that recommending a class III mounting system as a starting point is sound advice. As a flux-core owner myself, my only advice would be to pick up some anti-spatter spray from the welding shop. It does a really good job of keeping the spatter down, and makes for easier cleanup.


I am NOT a new welder... I am new to THIS welder and I am still using flux core with this welder... I just have not scrapped up the dough for a regulator and a bottle... but for doing thicker steel, honestly flux work pretty darn well... I would not use it on thin stuff though

Whether your welds are strong or not (they look better up close), I stand by my statement that they *look questionable. The fact is that a lot of experienced offroaders would be hesitant to hook a strap up to a hook with boogery looking welds an flux-core spatter all over it. It's a liability on their end, and they also don't want a hook through their head or windsheild. Likewise, although I'm a mediocre welder, I would never buy a used jeep suspension and fab parts with boogery looking welds and flux-core spatter. The welds could be just as strong as any, but flux-core welds relay two things for me:

* I'm too inexperienced to upgrade to a more expensive gas mig
* I can't afford a more expensive gas mig (what other concessions were made)

I'm referring to perception and not skill or actual strength. I know that flux-core has it's advantages, especially if you are outside and it's windy. However, there will be someone on the other end of your tow hooks who may be subject to said perceptions. If you are confident in your welds, you may wan to clean them up a bit and make your work look presentable. FYI - you can take a steel chisel and knock off the metal beads.
 
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the problem is in post 1 you really can not see the welds...


No.

The problem in post one is that it is a terrible idea that will only end in tears, good welds, shitty welds, bolts, or bubblegum it's a bad deal.


This is typical of Mod Tech. Somebody comes in with a crappy idea, we try to guide them, and they get all huffy and continue insisting their idea is better. If you already knew what you wanted to do why post up?

Now I remember why I avoid the tech forums.
 
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