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Lifts

I see well im looking at trying to save some money
I really like the kit but I have to ask any one have any luck with rusty's?

If you're worried about the quality of an RE kit, you shouldn't be considering Rusty's.
 
Driveline measurements - fantastic!

You shouldn't need a SYE unless it is vibrating while driving down the freeway. You will need a transfer case drop thing if you don't get a SYE. But if you do go with a SYE, just use a front drive shaft out of a ZJ. http://www.cherokeeforum.com/f40/south-florida-dysfunctional-4x4s-57009/index164/#post1516685 This page has a list of lengths of the shafts. It is really helpful. Best of luck man!

Wow great find! It's so good, I'm going to copy it here! ;)

These are measurements U-JOINT TO U-JOINT

BOLD ONES ARE LONGEST

XJ 87/88 2.5 Automatic 27.950 53003912
XJ 89/93 2.5 Automatic 27.970 53005540
XJ 89/01 2.5 Manual 25.310 53005541
XJ 89/01 4.0 Automatic 30.660 53005542
XJ 89/01 4.0 Manual 29.250 53005543
XJ 89/00 4.0 Manual 27.080 Export 53005544
XJ 89/00 4.0 Automatic 28.620 Export 53005545
XJ 87/88 4.0 Automatic Export 53005260 *
XJ 95/01 Diesel 27.640 Export 52098208

ZJ 1993 4.0 Automatic 30.530 52098341
ZJ 93/95 5.2 Automatic 32.870 w/o CV 53008427
ZJ 94/95 5.2 A500 30.625 w/o CV 52087805
ZJ 94/95 4.0 A500 w/o CV 52098790
ZJ 93/96 4.0 Manual 52098344
ZJ 93/96 4.0, 5.2 31.875 w/ 231, 242 52087805
ZJ 93/95 4.0 Manual 30.000 w/231 52088090
ZJ 93/96 5.2 33.000 w/ 231 53008427
ZJ 96/98 5.2, 5.9 31.250 w/ 249 & Model 30 52098379
ZJ 1996 5.2 Automatic 32.875 w/ 249 & Model 30 52098501
ZJ 96/98 4.0 33.000 w/ 242 52098707
ZJ 96/97 4.0 Automatic 31.250 52098850
ZJ 1996 5.2 Automatic 30.750 w/ 249 & Model 30 52099246
ZJ 96/98 4.0 33.500 w/ 249 52099260
 
That is epic :) made my day.
 
Last edited:
OME, Tomken, Full-traction, IRO, piece your own together. etc. You get the idea.
 
I'm going to do that haha :)
Ome shocks coils leafs
Iro control arms and shackles
 
I'd suggest installing the lift and driving the rig first.

i suggest he answer these quetions first...

What size of tires do you want to run?
What kind of wheeling do you do? Moab every week or mall krawl to Sears?
How important is ride quality to you?
What’s your drivetrain?

Little more info will help us give you some better answers...


You shouldn't need a SYE unless it is vibrating while driving down the freeway. You will need a transfer case drop thing if you don't get a SYE. But if you do go with a SYE, just use a front drive shaft out of a ZJ. http://www.cherokeeforum.com/f40/south-florida-dysfunctional-4x4s-57009/index164/#post1516685 This page has a list of lengths of the shafts. It is really helpful. Best of luck man!
ill do ya one better:
http://www2.dana.com/pdf/J321-CV.PDF







something i noticed...
- why are we suggesting drive shafts when we dont know the OPs motor/trans/Tcase/rear axle setup? i have a manual, and with my H&T actually use the shaft from an auto cherokee, which is going to be shorter than anything from a grand with a double cardan joint. year would also be important, the early models are less prone from what ive read. a T case drop may be all that is needed. now, id suggest budgeting for a SYE, and if you dont need it, then doing what you would like with the money. but your going to want one at some point anyway. top 3 mods ive made) i went through rear Ujoints way too often. another thing to decide, is H&T or full SYE? on the earlier models, you need a new tail cone for a H&T to give the Tcase a sealed output, which puts you in the ball park for a full SYE. this is assuming the OP has a 231. the pinion on the D35 is also shorter than the pinion on an 8.25, this may effect shaft length. going to need degree shims too if an SYE is in order, there is more to budget for.
 
I have a
Dana35
Dana 30 front
Np242
Auto
1987
And thanks man that is good info I didn't even think I the shims
 
That's a weird combination for an 87 - are you sure it's not a 97?

RE Stuff is fine and good quality. I used the RE 3.5" Super Ride and all the parts were flawless. If anything, it ends up higher than advertised by a whole inch and the rear does not sag at all. Someone has been busy perpetuating stories about their spring packs from India. At least you can be sure that if the springs are bad, they will replace them...

If you are worried about the springs, buy springs from someone else. If you worried about the arms, get adjustables from IRO. Shocks from Bilstein, steering from Kevin OffRoad, etc.

You can piece a lift kit together but it is almost always more expensive.

Do not get a shaft (for the SYE) until after you lifted the Jeep, lowered it back to the ground and measured the exact length you need. It totally varies from one Jeep to another for a number of reasons.
 
Nope its a 87 got all the AMC stuff and says AMC 1987. Dana 35 just based on the shape... Also its like its owner....
 
LOL Round hahah Ill have to use that when posers ask me what rear diff I have.On R.E. leafs mine went down hill fast then the bushings fail in 2 years of DD and Daily Trail use too so I called and they dont carry my springs anymore so I had to Out source new bushing VIA building Bastards with my RE eye leaf as the addaleaf.But they rode great.
 
Yeah Its owner is a little out of shape....
But its a 35 all right
 
I belive it is a 242

its got

2wd
4wd
4wd Fulltime
N
4 Lo
I am not sure though First day back at school so im exhausted.
 
87 is the first year the 242 was put into the Cherokee. Only way to be sure is to crawl underneath it and read the tag. My advice is this, sit down and make a list of exactly what you want this rig to do. For instance, my current project is going to sit on 32" tires but I only really want it to do moderate rockcrawling. Trail riding and exploring for me. Ride is very important to me so soft springs and good shocks are a must. I'll need to armor up a bit (maybe toss in long arms just to splurg.) Once you have the list you can better see any potential issues. Then match the appropriate kit to your needs. Take your time and do your research. :)

BTW, I mix and match parts to my needs.
 
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