let this be THE peguot to AX-15 swap thread

[5-90]

That gun if I am remembering the right one, is a pretty sweet gun. Mine is an Angel IR3 with a Angel 4 circuit board (with the cops 2 sensor) Ir4 grip from and intake regulator, 14" infinity barrel, soft face bolt, titanium hammer and a couple other upgrades I can't remember off the top of my head lol, also running a HPA tank (3,000psi, 68ci) and a Halo B hopper with a victory board running at 35 bps, one heck of a sweet setup, extremely accurate and air efficient with the "chamber" upgrades. I really miss shooting that thing lol. Last time I played everyone else's guns were all new and stuff but mine was quieter, lasted longer per tank and shoot a heck of a lot better than anyone else's there lol. Truly miss playing...

I realized after reading your post count, you have been around for quite some time lol. This is my second off road forum and have been into this stuff for just over a year or so now... Loving every second of it though (except having to checkout when shopping for stuff lol). I have been directed here for more Jeep specific stuff than anywhere else actually. Kind of obvious why though lol. I am glad to be doing it though, the swap I mean. Gives me a much better driveline to handle all the other upgrades. As good as my current BA-10 is right now, I am fairly sure it wouldn't last too long when I finish up the project. Plus I can probably get a bit of money for it in getting rid of it... We shall see when the time comes for it lol. Anyways, I will get to that post of yours in a few minutes here, ebay keeps emailing me about leaving some feedback so I want to get that done and out of the way lol.

Paint

Best thing to do with the BA-10 is break it down for scrap when you're done. Save the input shaft to use for a clutch alignment tool (you can cut the input gear off if you like,) and toss the rest.

I went through four of them - and I tried to be nice to them! The only good thing I can say about the BA-10 is that I didn't pay for any of the four replacements I got (picked up my AX-15e for a swap deal, and the AX-15i was also free...)

NB: You'll want to change your transmission lube after the swap - you probably used GL-5 in the BA-10, and that's fine for it. However, using conventional GL-5 in the AX-15 will dissolve the synchroniser rings - the sulphur-based EP lubes are antagonistic to yellow metals. Use one of the following:

- NLGI GL-3 rated conventional gear oil.
- Performance synthetic GL-5 gear oil that specifically says it's safe for use with yellow metals (most are anyhow.)
- 10W-30, 10W-40, or 20W-50 engine oil (preferred option in colder climates anyhow.) Yes, this will work - and it can clean up a few other small issues anyhow.

Again, using conventional NLGI GL-5 gear oil will dissolve the synchroniser rings in your AX-15 transmission. This will make shifting difficult, and it requires total disassembly to replace them. Forewarned is forearmed...

Meanwhile, I think we'll move the paintball discussion backchannel - I'm enjoying it, but this isn't the place. Watch your PM box...

 

[Paintballpsyco2369]

Now that I'm back, let me tackle this a bit more thoroly...



Don't use the flywheel - the CKP trigger notches for OBD won't work with the RENIX CKP, and the RENIX trigger notches (contrariwise) won't work with the OBD CKP. However, the clutch screw patterns and friction surfaces are identical, so that causes no trouble.


- The clutch plate, pressure plate and rocker arm YES
- Associated bolts YES, but I usually replace these anyhow. See previous post.
- Obviously the trans, and the t-case Can we just agree "Duh!" on this one? :laugh:
- Linkage and shifters You'll have to extend the hole in the transmission tunnel straight back about two inches to clear the "even" gears on the AX-15, but that's easy.
- Inspection/cover plate Yep.
- Slave cylinder You'll be doing a hydraulic swap - so just get all new. Get them as aftermarket separate parts if you can - I've never been one to trust "factory assemblies" when there are multiple points of potential failure...



As I said earlier, there's no need. You should be able to use the 1988 X-member with the AX-15, just with the AX-15 mount (which is cheaper than the Peugeot mount anyhow - significantly so! Even the "performance poly" mounts are much cheaper than the Peugeot...) You shouldn't even need to re-drill anything - I didn't. From what I can see WRT the AX-15i and AX-15e, the outer dims are identical anyhow (including mount and shift tower locations.) I've compared the AX-15i (early) crossmember to that for the BA-10 and the AW4 - they're identical. But, you can beef them up if you want.



The cross-member should work, just get the proper mount cushion. Nuts are M8-1.25 for the mount studs, if you need them. I think the screws are M10-1.5x25m/m or M12-1.75x25m/m, but I'm not sure.



The AX-15e pilot is significantly larger than the BA-10 or AX-15i, so you need to replace the pilot bushing/bearing. You'll have to go "off-list" to make it work, the part you want is an early 1970's CJ with AMC304 and three-speed manual, then it's a drop-in.



Note earlier comments. Strongly consider aftermarket parts, instead of the OEM assembly. It's cheaper to repair later...



The reverse lamps are the only real other issue you have - and I've covered that in the previous post (easy fix using off-the-shelf parts.)



We're all here to help!

Just curious - woodsball or speedball, and how long? I'm an old-line woodsballer myself, and some MILSIM airsoft (keeping old reflexes alive...)

Ok cool, glad to hear I can still use the donor clutch, was less than a year old when I bought it from the guy lol. Not really worried about the flywheel, can maybe get a couple bucks for it, or just scrap it lol.

Just wondering, what is the term for the "rocker arm" and what is the bearing thing that is attached to it exactly? I probably will replace them, local farm supply store has grade 8 stuff for $3.99 a pound so can't hurt to replace them all lol. Was rather tired when I wrote the original post lol, hence the reason for some stuff being a bit off lol. Can I cut the hole once th trans is in place? Or better to just do it with it out? I definitely would agree with the aftermarket parts, but any idea as to cost for the MC, SC and the line to connect them? Kind of on a bit of a getting tighter budget so... If not too bad I will just replace the whole shebang... I know the SC is not even 6 months old though, when I bought the setup from the guy about 2 months ago he said he had just had it done 3 months prior so should still be good as far as I can see... Ideally would love to just replace though. As far as I know the old MC and line are still factory parts from 22 years ago lol. May have been changed, but I honestly doubt it. Everything I have played with so far on this rig has been factory so... Any idea as to sources, part numbers and prices or such for a MC, SC and line for them?

Kind of weird that it is cheaper like that lol, I wonder why that is so? What is WRT? In regards to the mount for that, which would be recommended for a driveline? I know the axle arms with rubber offer a bit smoother of a ride, just curious as to the "quality" of the trans mounts... I am fine with using the stock x-member, save $$ anywhere I can lol. Might weld a small strip of like .25" steel or so on though just to get it a bit extra spacing to better the driveline. Thanks for the sizes, definately will save me some time lol.

If am not sure if this would be a correct assumption, but that "rocker arm bearing thing" I mentioned earlier, would the "bearing" part be the pilot? Or something else? AS for the right one there, any idea if autozone is able to order it? OR would a place like NAPA (I think they're open still near me) or O'Reilys be able to get it?

I will look into the aftermarket hydraulic parts as mentioned earlier. Are they something I would need to order for a Jeep application, or could I get like "generic" parts for the setup?

Cool, sounds like an easy fix lol. I know the speedometer cable will hook up as just taking the whole thing from the old t-case for the donor replacement. As far as the old vacuum system goes, is that just that 4 color plug on the back there? Or is that something else? I think it is just those 3 things plugged in back there, will double check tomorrow if I have some time.

Again thank you so much for the help, I really do appreciate the help.

Paint

 

[Paintballpsyco2369]

Best thing to do with the BA-10 is break it down for scrap when you're done. Save the input shaft to use for a clutch alignment tool (you can cut the input gear off if you like,) and toss the rest.

I went through four of them - and I tried to be nice to them! The only good thing I can say about the BA-10 is that I didn't pay for any of the four replacements I got (picked up my AX-15e for a swap deal, and the AX-15i was also free...)

NB: You'll want to change your transmission lube after the swap - you probably used GL-5 in the BA-10, and that's fine for it. However, using conventional GL-5 in the AX-15 will dissolve the synchroniser rings - the sulphur-based EP lubes are antagonistic to yellow metals. Use one of the following:

- NLGI GL-3 rated conventional gear oil.
- Performance synthetic GL-5 gear oil that specifically says it's safe for use with yellow metals (most are anyhow.)
- 10W-30, 10W-40, or 20W-50 engine oil (preferred option in colder climates anyhow.) Yes, this will work - and it can clean up a few other small issues anyhow.

Again, using conventional NLGI GL-5 gear oil will dissolve the synchroniser rings in your AX-15 transmission. This will make shifting difficult, and it requires total disassembly to replace them. Forewarned is forearmed...

Meanwhile, I think we'll move the paintball discussion backchannel - I'm enjoying it, but this isn't the place. Watch your PM box...

Didn't expect a response so quick to that lol, nice. I will at least try to sell it, or trade it for some beer or something first. Might be able to find someone who needs something temporary to get them by cheaply so... Would be fun to tear one down though and learn more about them lol.

What type fo rig do you have built up that they are in? The one in mine is still factory, has slightly under 230,00 miles and still shifts great lol. My dad thought I was crazy when I brought home my newer one lol. Got all the parts I listed in an earlier post, along with an XJ airbox, Throttle body, accelerator cable and bracket, both rear quarter panel glass pieces, and the front visors, or and drivers side mirror for $175. Had just under 245,000 miles on it but they are all highway miles and the things worked great. Less than a year old clutch and less than 3 month old SC too lol. Nice at the free transmissions though lol.

Was also planning to do that, refreshing all fluids in everything. The oil and radiator fluid were done just before I got the Jeep but once time comes due for their change, switching to a good synthetic oil and higher quality radiator fluid... What other issues will conventional oil clear up may I ask? Also, could I use a synthetic oil, or conventional only if I went motor oil?

Thanks for the heads up on that, definitely don't want to be tearing the thing down to fix shortly after I get the work done on it lol.

That is fine on that note, will keep an eye on it.

Thanks again for everything,

Paint

 

[Mitchen]

I have also been reading this thread, and have several unanswered questions i have been trying to get resolved with no luck

I have a 88 with a ba 10/5 lost third then it locked up.

i can get a 5speed from a donor truck with everything i need off it.

its a 94 manufacture date is 3-94 if i recall correctly.


my parts list is pretty similar to paintballs.

i need the tranny and t case.
cross member
shift linkage.
clutch master cylinder and line


my question is this does the 94 bellhousing of the ax -15 bolt up to my 88 renix motor? i was told the block was alot different and the 94 bellhousing will not bolt up.

and what all do i need as far as the pilot bushing goes?

my knowledge of transmissions entails removing one from a ranger to replace a shift fork and putting it back in. so im not really on point as far as what all needs to be done

is there any threads that show this swap in close detail?

a detailed parts list would be appreciated. i have got most the big stuff figured out but im getting hung up on the little things as each thread or website has slightly different information.

any help is appreciated
Thanks,
Mitch

 

[5-90]

@Paint -

I'm never sure what that arm is called, I usually call it a "clutch fork" or a "clutch lever," and people know what I'm talking about.

The bearing is a "throw-out bearing," usually abbreviated "T/O" or "T/O Bearing."

You can use either synthetic or conventional engine oil without any trouble (no sulphur compounds in either of them - it's the sulphur-based EP lubes in GL-4 and GL-5 convo gear oil that cause the trouble. You'll need to keep GL-5 on hand for your axles, but use GL-3 in your transmission. PS GL-5 safe for yellow metal can be used in your axles and transmissions.)

The typical reason for using engine oil in a gearbox is that you're trying to wring every last bit of power out of the drivetrain (less parasitic pumping loss in using a lower-viscosity oil,) but it can smooth out your shifting in some cases - again, particularly in colder climates (as for the first point, I can remember running straight 5-vis engine oil in old Muncie Rock Crushers for strip cars - worked quite well! Bear to find, tho, and the transmission was usually at least partially overhauled at the end of the season anyhow.)

I got the AX-15i (internal slave) first to stick in my 88XJ, then scored the AX-15e (external slave) later for the final conversion - unless I score an NV3550 before it goes in! I plan to see if I can stick the input from the AX-15i into the AX-15e to get the smaller pilot size (so I don't have to keep tracking down pilot bushings,) and buy (or make) a three-part hydrauilc setup so I can replace a part if I lose one. My ultimate ideal would be an NV3550 with a D300, but I've got an NP242 I can convert to 23-sp input and put behind the AX-15e as a good second choice.

BELLHOUSING PATTERN - The AMC 6-199, 6-232, 6-242, 6-258, V8-304, V8-360 and V8-401 all use the exact same bellhousing pattern. Problem solved. (Note that the MOPAR V8-360 is a different engine and has nothing whatever to do with the AMC V8-360, save for the common displacement. There's no parts commonality whatever. The MOPAR360 uses the LA-block castings and bellhousing pattern, which is shared by the V6-238, V8-318, V8-360, V10-488, and V10-515.)

Parts? Check with your local aftermarket parts house (preferably a mom-and-pop - more options than the big guys, believe me! I used to work for Kragen/Schuck/Checker, and they've only gotten worse since...)

WRT = "With Respect To." It's an abbreviation I picked up (among several) in a course in Symbolic Logic that I audited back around 1986 or so. You should read my notes - medical abbreviations, chemical abbreviations, logic abbreviations, math & logic symbology - you'll truly need to be multidisciplinary to make sense of them (that's leaving aside the Greek and Latin I still use sometimes, because it can be written shorter than in English...)

There are usually two "bearings" associated with the clutch fork - the T/O bearing and the "pivot ball" (it's usually a ball-and-socket arrangement. Just clean it and smear a bit of grease in the socket when servicing the clutch.) The T/O bearing is around the input, the pivot ball is at the end of the fork. (NB: If you convert the AX-15i to the AX-15e, you must move the front bearing retainer over as well. That sleeve is required for proper T/O bearing operation, or you will not be able to get the clutch to disengage. I've diagnosed this at least a half-dozen times for people in the last four months...)

@Mitchen -

Took care of that duplicate post for you. You can edit, but only a mod can delete...

Note my comment on bellhousing above - you will not have any trouble there. Upper bell-to-engine screws are 3/8"-16, lower ones are 7/16"-14. I don't recall the lengths, but you can either match up the ones you have; or measure the thickness of the flange they pass through, add the nominal diameter of the screw, then go with that length or the very next longer size, if you are in between. (Thumb Rule for maximum strength of a threaded join - you want thread engagement equal to the nominal diameter of the fastener.)

Your 1994 should be the external slave with the larger pilot diameter. Measure. If the pilot is roughly 5/8", you have the small pilot and can use the same bushing as for the BA-10. If it's around 7/8", you have the large pilot and will need to get the early 1970's CJ V8-304 three-speed manual pilot bushing I mentioned before.

If you can change a clutch, you can swap a transmission. The metal work that wants doing is minimal, the electrical work is very nearly non-existant, and it sounds like you have pretty much everything already. I don't have a photologue of the swap anywhere around here, but read through this thread and picture everything, perhaps print it and take it out to the shop with you. You'll see what's going on as you get into it, and it's not a big job (it's really only a bit more than changing a clutch - probably an additional hour's work, because of having to cut the transmission tunnel. This means you have to pull the centre console and cut the carpet and underlayment, ...)

The "parts list" you'll want is also here - my own comments are from having done this job myself, as has everyone else (I'm sure) who has contributed to this thread (answers, not questions.) Therefore, you're on the right track. I refer people on other sites to this thread when they're looking for information!

 

[Mitchen]

Thanks for fixing that good to know.

it is a external slave. so if the pilot is 5/8 i just replace the ax-15 pilot bushing with the same bushing from the ba10/5? and will the pilot bushing be something i can buy by itself or will have to buy a whole new clutch kit with everything? the clutch is new (so i was told atleast) so i would like to avoid having to buy a new clutch. the possible donor vehicle was from the local community college apparently so it doesnt really have alot of road time and the transmission is like new.

also i am still confused as far as the clutch master cylinder goes. is it necesary to swap the 94 master cylinder in? because the one on the 88 is brand new, ha.

anything sheet metal is easy and electrical is easy. just figuring out how everything is going to go together still.

Thanks,
Mitch

 

[5-90]

Thanks for fixing that good to know.

it is a external slave. so if the pilot is 5/8 i just replace the ax-15 pilot bushing with the same bushing from the ba10/5? and will the pilot bushing be something i can buy by itself or will have to buy a whole new clutch kit with everything? the clutch is new (so i was told atleast) so i would like to avoid having to buy a new clutch. the possible donor vehicle was from the local community college apparently so it doesnt really have alot of road time and the transmission is like new.

also i am still confused as far as the clutch master cylinder goes. is it necesary to swap the 94 master cylinder in? because the one on the 88 is brand new, ha.

anything sheet metal is easy and electrical is easy. just figuring out how everything is going to go together still.

Thanks,
Mitch

Either way, the pilot bushing can be bought on its own fairly easily. Most clutch kits also include one, as it really should be replaced whenever the clutch is torn down (just as the T/O bearing should also be changed whenever - you're there anyhow, and there's no reason to duplicate the job in a month and a half because you forgot to change a five-dollar part.)

I don't know if there is a difference in working volume between the internal and external slave cylinders, but master/slave hydraulic (or pneumatic) setups are matched for working volume. The master cylinder, when actuated, needs to be able to force enough working fluid into the slave for full travel - if the 88 master is too small for the 94 slave, you'll burn through clutches (because you won't get enough travel to fully disengage the clutch, and you'll literally burn through them.) That's why I suggest changing the hydraulics out of hand - that way, you know they're matched.

Worst case, sounds like you're in (clutchwise) for changing out the pilot bushing - which is also fairly easy, with the proper tool (I like the one that is essentially a cone with a shallow thread, and a zerk on the flat end. Screw the cone into the old bushing, pump it full of grease, and the hydraulic pressure forces the bushing out. Wipe out the grease and push the new bushing in flush with the crank bore surface.) If the transmission came with a slave and you can get a new master, do so - then you can sell the 88 master to someone who needs it - it works with the BA-10 throwout, and the BA-10 throwout will work with the AX-15i conversion handily (that's how I did it. The connectors for the AX-15i and BA-10/5 slave are different - the BA-10 uses a 1/4" SAE flare, and the AX-15i uses some wacky quick-connect. I trust the flare fitting more anyhow.)

 

[Mitchen]

Yeah i have always known that to be true, will probably just find the pilot bushing by itself. unless the clutch looks pretty bad in which case i will replace it..

And thats what i was thinking. i couldnt notice a big difference between the two but i would rather put the 94 in rather than going threw clutches every couple months. i can get the clutch master cylinder with it anyway so i will just put it on also so i dont get the project done to find the 88 doesnt work with the 94 ax15.

i have been told you can use wet paper and pound it in with a socket to push the pilot out? i have never seen it done but my friend said it worked well for him. is this an okay way to get it out?

Thanks,
Mitch

 

[Paintballpsyco2369]

@Paint -

I'm never sure what that arm is called, I usually call it a "clutch fork" or a "clutch lever," and people know what I'm talking about.

The bearing is a "throw-out bearing," usually abbreviated "T/O" or "T/O Bearing."

You can use either synthetic or conventional engine oil without any trouble (no sulphur compounds in either of them - it's the sulphur-based EP lubes in GL-4 and GL-5 convo gear oil that cause the trouble. You'll need to keep GL-5 on hand for your axles, but use GL-3 in your transmission. PS GL-5 safe for yellow metal can be used in your axles and transmissions.)

The typical reason for using engine oil in a gearbox is that you're trying to wring every last bit of power out of the drivetrain (less parasitic pumping loss in using a lower-viscosity oil,) but it can smooth out your shifting in some cases - again, particularly in colder climates (as for the first point, I can remember running straight 5-vis engine oil in old Muncie Rock Crushers for strip cars - worked quite well! Bear to find, tho, and the transmission was usually at least partially overhauled at the end of the season anyhow.)

I got the AX-15i (internal slave) first to stick in my 88XJ, then scored the AX-15e (external slave) later for the final conversion - unless I score an NV3550 before it goes in! I plan to see if I can stick the input from the AX-15i into the AX-15e to get the smaller pilot size (so I don't have to keep tracking down pilot bushings,) and buy (or make) a three-part hydrauilc setup so I can replace a part if I lose one. My ultimate ideal would be an NV3550 with a D300, but I've got an NP242 I can convert to 23-sp input and put behind the AX-15e as a good second choice.

BELLHOUSING PATTERN - The AMC 6-199, 6-232, 6-242, 6-258, V8-304, V8-360 and V8-401 all use the exact same bellhousing pattern. Problem solved. (Note that the MOPAR V8-360 is a different engine and has nothing whatever to do with the AMC V8-360, save for the common displacement. There's no parts commonality whatever. The MOPAR360 uses the LA-block castings and bellhousing pattern, which is shared by the V6-238, V8-318, V8-360, V10-488, and V10-515.)

Parts? Check with your local aftermarket parts house (preferably a mom-and-pop - more options than the big guys, believe me! I used to work for Kragen/Schuck/Checker, and they've only gotten worse since...)

WRT = "With Respect To." It's an abbreviation I picked up (among several) in a course in Symbolic Logic that I audited back around 1986 or so. You should read my notes - medical abbreviations, chemical abbreviations, logic abbreviations, math & logic symbology - you'll truly need to be multidisciplinary to make sense of them (that's leaving aside the Greek and Latin I still use sometimes, because it can be written shorter than in English...)

There are usually two "bearings" associated with the clutch fork - the T/O bearing and the "pivot ball" (it's usually a ball-and-socket arrangement. Just clean it and smear a bit of grease in the socket when servicing the clutch.) The T/O bearing is around the input, the pivot ball is at the end of the fork. (NB: If you convert the AX-15i to the AX-15e, you must move the front bearing retainer over as well. That sleeve is required for proper T/O bearing operation, or you will not be able to get the clutch to disengage. I've diagnosed this at least a half-dozen times for people in the last four months...)

@Mitchen -(learing part to comment on another part)
If you can change a clutch, you can swap a transmission. The metal work that wants doing is minimal, the electrical work is very nearly non-existant, and it sounds like you have pretty much everything already. I don't have a photologue of the swap anywhere around here, but read through this thread and picture everything, perhaps print it and take it out to the shop with you. You'll see what's going on as you get into it, and it's not a big job (it's really only a bit more than changing a clutch - probably an additional hour's work, because of having to cut the transmission tunnel. This means you have to pull the centre console and cut the carpet and underlayment, ...)

The "parts list" you'll want is also here - my own comments are from having done this job myself, as has everyone else (I'm sure) who has contributed to this thread (answers, not questions.) Therefore, you're on the right track. I refer people on other sites to this thread when they're looking for information!

That makes sense, presently I am not even sure what the thing does lol. Still learning about this stuff. Any chance you might have a link to somewhere with more info on clutches and such?

What might you recommend as for fluid for the transmission? Just wondering as far as best for the trans, and looking at long term durability... Any idea as to average life of the transmissions? At least he AX-15e's? The one I got has around 245,000 miles most of which were highway so just curious.

I checked my local place and they are wanting around $70 for a daystar polyurethane transmission mount, they are also unable to get the pilot bearing lol. There is a local NAPA I can call tomorrow, and I guess I will just have to try O'reilys and Autozone as well. If nothing locally I will find it online somewhere. As for the trans mount, which would be better to use between poly and rubber?

Sounds like it could get rather confusing reading through some of your stuff lol.

I am starting to think the T/O bearing might not be there, or I am looking over it or something. The "sleeve" thing you speak of if on the "fork" thing. I will look over it tomorrow after class and also try to learn what these "things" are called lol.

The metal work definitely won't be a problem in my case, most of floors and rockers gone presently so should be pretty easy lol. Also no interior at the moment... I am also fairly good at some electrical stuff. Never taken on anything as large as a vehicle though, but I can cut/splice like no tomorrow lol. My friends dad is good with clutches and all and has offered to help me, so I just need to get all the stuff before he comes over so I am set to go. No carpet is going back in, so set there as well lol. The only other issue I can see having, I bought a later model center console to upgrade my stock 88 one (I know the factory ones suck but I want cup holders damn it lol) I just hope I can still fit it ok and all having to move the "shifter hole". Other than that, with my friends dad helping me and the reference I have gathered here I think I will be ok with this whole swap. I will see if I can get another friend of mine over with a camera and notebook and see maybe about doing a complete detailed write-up so I can contribute something back to this thread, Might help to make it easier for others in the future.

As for getting the new MC, line and SC, any suggestions on sources or anything?

Either way, the pilot bushing can be bought on its own fairly easily. Most clutch kits also include one, as it really should be replaced whenever the clutch is torn down (just as the T/O bearing should also be changed whenever - you're there anyhow, and there's no reason to duplicate the job in a month and a half because you forgot to change a five-dollar part.)

I don't know if there is a difference in working volume between the internal and external slave cylinders, but master/slave hydraulic (or pneumatic) setups are matched for working volume. The master cylinder, when actuated, needs to be able to force enough working fluid into the slave for full travel - if the 88 master is too small for the 94 slave, you'll burn through clutches (because you won't get enough travel to fully disengage the clutch, and you'll literally burn through them.) That's why I suggest changing the hydraulics out of hand - that way, you know they're matched.

Worst case, sounds like you're in (clutchwise) for changing out the pilot bushing - which is also fairly easy, with the proper tool (I like the one that is essentially a cone with a shallow thread, and a zerk on the flat end. Screw the cone into the old bushing, pump it full of grease, and the hydraulic pressure forces the bushing out. Wipe out the grease and push the new bushing in flush with the crank bore surface.) If the transmission came with a slave and you can get a new master, do so - then you can sell the 88 master to someone who needs it - it works with the BA-10 throwout, and the BA-10 throwout will work with the AX-15i conversion handily (that's how I did it. The connectors for the AX-15i and BA-10/5 slave are different - the BA-10 uses a 1/4" SAE flare, and the AX-15i uses some wacky quick-connect. I trust the flare fitting more anyhow.)

Planning to just do the bolts, trans mount, T/O bearing and pilot bearing, then more than likely the MC, SC and line while there. Tentatively I am planning to still use the clutch as it is still looking good but get the friction plate re-surfaced at least. The local off road supply tried to talk me into a centerforce when I was on the phone, but budget is borderline over right now so... Will consider it though for now. I believe you are referring to Mitchen about the slave cylinder, I am in a similar boat in that mine is fairly new as well. Would it be possible to just get a new MC and then a line to connect it? Or would the line on the new one be one piece like factory? The whole setup in my case if from a 96 donor which is why I ask as you mentioned the AX-15i uses a disconnect...

Thanks again, hope to hear back soon.

Paint

 

[5-90]

Yeah i have always known that to be true, will probably just find the pilot bushing by itself. unless the clutch looks pretty bad in which case i will replace it..

And thats what i was thinking. i couldnt notice a big difference between the two but i would rather put the 94 in rather than going threw clutches every couple months. i can get the clutch master cylinder with it anyway so i will just put it on also so i dont get the project done to find the 88 doesnt work with the 94 ax15.

i have been told you can use wet paper and pound it in with a socket to push the pilot out? i have never seen it done but my friend said it worked well for him. is this an okay way to get it out?

Thanks,
Mitch

Dunno - if it works, let me know. Here's what I use - http://www.lislecorp.com/divisions/products/?product=351. Available most locals, and usually Sears. Works like a charm!

 

[5-90]

That makes sense, presently I am not even sure what the thing does lol. Still learning about this stuff. Any chance you might have a link to somewhere with more info on clutches and such?

Simply put, a clutch is a friction device that provides a selectable mechanical coupling between two parts in a powertrain. Yes, it can be a cogged coupling - but then it isn't a clutch anymore.

The idea of a friction clutch is to provide smooth coupling and uncoupling of pwertrain components.

The clutch is comprised of two ferrous friction elements (typically attached to the powersource, and taking the form of the flywheel and an iron cover) and a composition friction element (the disc in between them, usually attached to the driven member - transmission, in this case.) These elements are all "squished" together by a number of heavy springs in the cover assembly, and the clutch may be disengaged by means of a set of levers (acting upon the iron plate) and a throwout bearing (to allow for force to be applied to the levers without having to stop the thing, or allowing force to be relieved when the components are in motion.)

Information can be found online through a number of "How it Works" compendia, Wikipedia, or even some performance sites (that get into the "how" and "why" of performance, instead of just saying "Buy this.")

What might you recommend as for fluid for the transmission? Just wondering as far as best for the trans, and looking at long term durability... Any idea as to average life of the transmissions? At least he AX-15e's? The one I got has around 245,000 miles most of which were highway so just curious.

You were in Michigan, right? Probably 20W-50 engine oil - it should complement the higher mileage you've got (since you probably don't know the history of the gearbox, and need to save up before you can do bearings & synchros in the thing - the gears in the AX-15 are tempered properly for the application, unlike the BA-10,) and it will help with cold shifting in the wintertime. I doubt you want to change your gearbox oil twice a year - or I'd say 10W-30 or 5W-30 in the winter, and 80W-90 (standard service) or 75W-140 (heavy service/hauling/towing) GL-3 in the winter. (API service specs for engine oil aren't of concern in a manual gearbox, like the NLGI GL-specs are.)

I checked my local place and they are wanting around $70 for a daystar polyurethane transmission mount, they are also unable to get the pilot bearing lol. There is a local NAPA I can call tomorrow, and I guess I will just have to try O'reilys and Autozone as well. If nothing locally I will find it online somewhere. As for the trans mount, which would be better to use between poly and rubber?

Poly costs more, as it depends more upon petrochemistry (and we all know what's been happening there; with OPEC getting greedy, the fat boy with the bad manners down south, and all...) Poly does tend to last rather longer than the OEM elastomer (it's called "rubber" - but it really isn't "rubber" in the chemical sense... None of the bushings and mounts have been for a good long while...) but it does transmit more vibration into the chassis. Not such a problem with the transmission, but you'll notice it with the engine mounts, and you'll get a rather harsher ride if you use poly suspension bushings (I don't mind, but you might.)

NB: Do not mix polly and 'rubber' engine mounts! The poly mount, being stiffer, will accelerate wear on the engine mounts. Also, if you're going to put in a new transmission mount, take the extra couple of hours to put in new engine mounts as well - mixing ages on mounts can also lead to accelerated wear.

Sounds like it could get rather confusing reading through some of your stuff lol.

Yeah, but it protected my notebook in middle school, high school, college, and college (I've hung around all manner of people all my life, and have learned quite a bit of assorted "trade lingos." Being able to talk to physicians and surgeons in their own language has come in very handy over the last dozen years or so, let me tell you!)

I am starting to think the T/O bearing might not be there, or I am looking over it or something. The "sleeve" thing you speak of if on the "fork" thing. I will look over it tomorrow after class and also try to learn what these "things" are called lol.

The fork/lever won't come with a clutch kit, it's not a maintenance item. The T/O bearing will - it's a maintenance item. It's also possible to buy a T/O bearing separately - I'm sure you can get it from L&S, BCA, or Timken without any trouble (and I'd use any of those three brands without worry.)

The metal work definitely won't be a problem in my case, most of floors and rockers gone presently so should be pretty easy lol. Also no interior at the moment... I am also fairly good at some electrical stuff. Never taken on anything as large as a vehicle though, but I can cut/splice like no tomorrow lol. My friends dad is good with clutches and all and has offered to help me, so I just need to get all the stuff before he comes over so I am set to go. No carpet is going back in, so set there as well lol. The only other issue I can see having, I bought a later model center console to upgrade my stock 88 one (I know the factory ones suck but I want cup holders damn it lol) I just hope I can still fit it ok and all having to move the "shifter hole". Other than that, with my friends dad helping me and the reference I have gathered here I think I will be ok with this whole swap. I will see if I can get another friend of mine over with a camera and notebook and see maybe about doing a complete detailed write-up so I can contribute something back to this thread, Might help to make it easier for others in the future.

I was able to do the job without ripping out all of the interior - just the centre console. Sounds like you've got everything out of the way!

As for getting the new MC, line and SC, any suggestions on sources or anything?

Check your local for parts from Raybestos or Bendix - clutches and brakes are closely related, and brake vendors tend to handle clutch parts. Just stick to a good brand (or go with performance aftermarket if you can't find anything decent locally. Takes a little creativity, but it's doable.)

Planning to just do the bolts, trans mount, T/O bearing and pilot bearing, then more than likely the MC, SC and line while there. Tentatively I am planning to still use the clutch as it is still looking good but get the friction plate re-surfaced at least. The local off road supply tried to talk me into a centerforce when I was on the phone, but budget is borderline over right now so... Will consider it though for now. I believe you are referring to Mitchen about the slave cylinder, I am in a similar boat in that mine is fairly new as well. Would it be possible to just get a new MC and then a line to connect it? Or would the line on the new one be one piece like factory? The whole setup in my case if from a 96 donor which is why I ask as you mentioned the AX-15i uses a disconnect...

Thanks again, hope to hear back soon.

Paint

Centreforce isn't bad. I've used them.

While you've got the clutch torn to bits, check the friction plate. If it's glazed, you can often break it off using about a 240 to 320-grit emery gently on a sanding block - if that won't break the glaze off, replace it. Don't dig into it too hard, or it will reglaze on you. Don't use the paper by hand, use a hard block (or it will be uneven and spot-glaze and heat-check the iron surfaces. Both are bad.)

Aftermarket parts shouldn't be the "one-piece" setup like you'd get with OEM - I've not known them to do that for anything offhand. My luck, this will be the exception that proves the rule...

If you can get a slave to hook up to the 1/4" SAE flare, and the working volume of the BA-10/AX-15i slave is comparable to the AX-15e (I haven't had an opportunity to check this...) then you can make it work (both of you.) You're just wandering into unexplored territory there, so I can't help you as much as I'd like to. I haven't gone there myself yet...

 

[Paintballpsyco2369]

Simply put, a clutch is a friction device that provides a selectable mechanical coupling between two parts in a powertrain. Yes, it can be a cogged coupling - but then it isn't a clutch anymore.

The idea of a friction clutch is to provide smooth coupling and uncoupling of pwertrain components.

The clutch is comprised of two ferrous friction elements (typically attached to the powersource, and taking the form of the flywheel and an iron cover) and a composition friction element (the disc in between them, usually attached to the driven member - transmission, in this case.) These elements are all "squished" together by a number of heavy springs in the cover assembly, and the clutch may be disengaged by means of a set of levers (acting upon the iron plate) and a throwout bearing (to allow for force to be applied to the levers without having to stop the thing, or allowing force to be relieved when the components are in motion.)

Information can be found online through a number of "How it Works" compendia, Wikipedia, or even some performance sites (that get into the "how" and "why" of performance, instead of just saying "Buy this.")



You were in Michigan, right? Probably 20W-50 engine oil - it should complement the higher mileage you've got (since you probably don't know the history of the gearbox, and need to save up before you can do bearings & synchros in the thing - the gears in the AX-15 are tempered properly for the application, unlike the BA-10,) and it will help with cold shifting in the wintertime. I doubt you want to change your gearbox oil twice a year - or I'd say 10W-30 or 5W-30 in the winter, and 80W-90 (standard service) or 75W-140 (heavy service/hauling/towing) GL-3 in the winter. (API service specs for engine oil aren't of concern in a manual gearbox, like the NLGI GL-specs are.)



Poly costs more, as it depends more upon petrochemistry (and we all know what's been happening there; with OPEC getting greedy, the fat boy with the bad manners down south, and all...) Poly does tend to last rather longer than the OEM elastomer (it's called "rubber" - but it really isn't "rubber" in the chemical sense... None of the bushings and mounts have been for a good long while...) but it does transmit more vibration into the chassis. Not such a problem with the transmission, but you'll notice it with the engine mounts, and you'll get a rather harsher ride if you use poly suspension bushings (I don't mind, but you might.)

NB: Do not mix polly and 'rubber' engine mounts! The poly mount, being stiffer, will accelerate wear on the engine mounts. Also, if you're going to put in a new transmission mount, take the extra couple of hours to put in new engine mounts as well - mixing ages on mounts can also lead to accelerated wear.



Yeah, but it protected my notebook in middle school, high school, college, and college (I've hung around all manner of people all my life, and have learned quite a bit of assorted "trade lingos." Being able to talk to physicians and surgeons in their own language has come in very handy over the last dozen years or so, let me tell you!)



The fork/lever won't come with a clutch kit, it's not a maintenance item. The T/O bearing will - it's a maintenance item. It's also possible to buy a T/O bearing separately - I'm sure you can get it from L&S, BCA, or Timken without any trouble (and I'd use any of those three brands without worry.)



I was able to do the job without ripping out all of the interior - just the centre console. Sounds like you've got everything out of the way!



Check your local for parts from Raybestos or Bendix - clutches and brakes are closely related, and brake vendors tend to handle clutch parts. Just stick to a good brand (or go with performance aftermarket if you can't find anything decent locally. Takes a little creativity, but it's doable.)



Centreforce isn't bad. I've used them.

While you've got the clutch torn to bits, check the friction plate. If it's glazed, you can often break it off using about a 240 to 320-grit emery gently on a sanding block - if that won't break the glaze off, replace it. Don't dig into it too hard, or it will reglaze on you. Don't use the paper by hand, use a hard block (or it will be uneven and spot-glaze and heat-check the iron surfaces. Both are bad.)

Aftermarket parts shouldn't be the "one-piece" setup like you'd get with OEM - I've not known them to do that for anything offhand. My luck, this will be the exception that proves the rule...

If you can get a slave to hook up to the 1/4" SAE flare, and the working volume of the BA-10/AX-15i slave is comparable to the AX-15e (I haven't had an opportunity to check this...) then you can make it work (both of you.) You're just wandering into unexplored territory there, so I can't help you as much as I'd like to. I haven't gone there myself yet...

II actually dug out my Haynes manual and read through that a bit for some more info about the clutch and such. Some useful stuff...

I am in Michigan yes, mid thumb area to be more precise. I wasn't planning to do any work on the trans anytime soon, perhaps once I get the rig done though and get some miles on it when I am finished, I want to make sure everything is going to run good together and that I won't have any issues before I get that involved in rebuilding that kind of a precision component. AS of now I am only planning to get that detailed on the t-case, but that is a fairly simple job so I know I can do it. Trans has just a few more parts than that so will wait and learn and save up for a rebuild kit. That may sound a bit redundant to build up without rebuilding it, but I just can't rebuild it right now... It is time and money I don't have presently... My 8.8 is supposed to run the 75w140 or so autozone told me anyways. Friend of mine is going to get me some that is premixed with the LS additive from his work for axles. Would I be able to use the same stuff in the transmission? Or would the 20w-50 be better do you think? FOr the 20w-50, would that be like a good year round oil to use? OR would something else be better perhaps?

I would like to keep it as smooth a ride as I can, with the lift and swampers I am running, I am expecting some so would like to do what I can to keep the noise down some. I think for the mount I will see what I can find in the elastomer material, poly would be ideal, but I think the elastomer would probably be better with a slight amount of "give" to help better control noise and vibrations... I am not planning at all to do engine mounts. Again, more time and money I just don't have. Will probably do them whenever it is that I rebuild the trans though. The PO was the original owner, he daily drove it for work which was just about all highway driving so I would tend to think (could be wrong though) that it should be in decent shape inside though. Still a ton of miles but still...

I can understand the "language barrier" you speak of with that, I have picked up a number of jargon words the last couple years in college and it has helped quite a bit. The best thing was when I started getting into this offroad stuff, I never knew what anything meant when talking to people or being near people when they talk about it. My friend who got me started taught me a lot about it and got me going on my own with it all. A while back I went to another friend of his' house to borrow his welder and we were all talking about this stuff like it was a dinner conversation, what I mean by that is I was able to understand everything we talked about and that was just awesome. Never having known any of that stuff prior to starting this Jeep build, then knowing all that we talked about was a really good feeling.

The bearing is in there, I looked at my Haynes manual and found out what and where everything is on there. The Trans' PO gave me the flywheel, clutch disk, pressure plate, t/o bearing and the release arm slave cylinder, plus the trans and t-case and associated shifters. It seems to be in good shape, but might as well replace it while in there...

That is cool. I do indeed lol. Not sure why, or if it is supposed to be there, but there is a plate screwed to the transmission tunnel... Kind of odd it seems to me, but could just be me. Also, I was looking at the donor driveline tonight and there are 2 wired connections on it. One on the trans and the other on the t-case. The trans one is 2 wires, and the t-case is a plug mounted to the case. What is the second one for? I tried to look at the ba-10 to try and figure out what was what, but crawling under it in the state it is presently in... I will wait to do that lol.

I will see what I can do locally. The clutch disk and pressure plate honestly seem like new, friend of mine who knows transmissions better than I said the same thing. To save a bit of money, could I just do the clutch disk? Or would that not be recommended at all? I would rather use what I have, I really am low on funds right now so... I will ask the clutch friend about it when he comes over next time.

Now onto an interesting little fact here... I looked at the MC tonight and I think it may have already been replaced. Someone here already mentioned that the 88 one should be one bolt and a one piece plastic line to the SC. Well, my setup appears to be 2 bolt MC, and the line to the SC is part rubber and part steel. Any idea what to make of that? lol. I was kind of at a loss when I found that lol. lI guess I will have to pull the MC and line and take a closer look at it to verify the parts correctly.

Thanks again,

Paint

P.S. Sorry for any typos here, got a new laptop yesterday, still getting used to the new keyboard lol.

 

[5-90]

Hmmm...

II actually dug out my Haynes manual and read through that a bit for some more info about the clutch and such. Some useful stuff...

Haynes can hit a straight pitch once in a while. Don't count on it - if all you have is a Haynes, plan on dropping $20 on a Chilton's when you get a chance. Also, you can find a 1989-1990 FSM set on eBay secondhand for a decent price with a little pillaging around, and the only thing that changed 1988/1989 was some wiring colours (but nothing that can't be sorted.)

I am in Michigan yes, mid thumb area to be more precise. I wasn't planning to do any work on the trans anytime soon, perhaps once I get the rig done though and get some miles on it when I am finished, I want to make sure everything is going to run good together and that I won't have any issues before I get that involved in rebuilding that kind of a precision component. AS of now I am only planning to get that detailed on the t-case, but that is a fairly simple job so I know I can do it. Trans has just a few more parts than that so will wait and learn and save up for a rebuild kit. That may sound a bit redundant to build up without rebuilding it, but I just can't rebuild it right now... It is time and money I don't have presently... My 8.8 is supposed to run the 75w140 or so autozone told me anyways. Friend of mine is going to get me some that is premixed with the LS additive from his work for axles. Would I be able to use the same stuff in the transmission? Or would the 20w-50 be better do you think? FOr the 20w-50, would that be like a good year round oil to use? OR would something else be better perhaps?p/QUOTE]

Understandable - but a gearbox is easier than a slushbox. Hell, if you can handle a transfer case, you should be able to handle a gearbox - just make sure you have a good manual (let me know if you can't find one, I'll see what I can come up with. Hit me backchannel on that.)

As long as the gear oil is safe for use with Yellow Metal, the LSD FM additive won't harm anything. I did the same thing with my Peugeos before I finally got an AX - the LSD FM (two of the five XJs I had had it) that I added to gear oil out of hand won't harm anything, and actually helps function as an anti-scuff additive - like the organometallic salts in engine oil (ZDDP being most common) used through API Service Specification SL. Not having the anti-scuff won't cause your transmission any trouble, but you'll want to find SL or earlier for your engine - or stock up on GM EOS to add at each and every oil change where you fill up with API SM. Trust me on this.

Since your axle oil is likely to be a GL-5, and probably a synthetic (from what you're saying,) just check the label to see if you're good with copper & alloys (yellow metal.) If it's not on the label, check the manufacturer's site. If you don't see it there, use something else. The presence of the LSD FM won't make up for presence of sulphur-based EP lubes - if you've got the latter, you're still going to dissolve your synchroniser rings.

If you want to use engine oil, try 10W-40 first. It will get you through the winter, and will probably work well for the summer. If it doesn't, go ahead and step up to 20W-50, but monitor everything during the winter (same reason - I know how cold it can get up there...) When I had my Bug in northern IN, I'd replace one quart of engine oil with one quart of Marvel Mystery Oil for wintertime oil changes (air-cooled engine with magnesium crankcase and aluminum cylinders - damned thing was a bear to get warmed up on a winter morning...) and that helped. I figure you can get away with doing the same thing in your transmission in about the same ratio - one part in four.

I would like to keep it as smooth a ride as I can, with the lift and swampers I am running, I am expecting some so would like to do what I can to keep the noise down some. I think for the mount I will see what I can find in the elastomer material, poly would be ideal, but I think the elastomer would probably be better with a slight amount of "give" to help better control noise and vibrations... I am not planning at all to do engine mounts. Again, more time and money I just don't have. Will probably do them whenever it is that I rebuild the trans though. The PO was the original owner, he daily drove it for work which was just about all highway driving so I would tend to think (could be wrong though) that it should be in decent shape inside though. Still a ton of miles but still...

If you're not going to change the engine mounts, get the elastomer transmission mount - save up to change all three this coming summer anyhow (it's not that much of a job, and if you change one of the three when the other two have heavy miles on them you're going to lose mounts inside of six months to a year anyhow. Be ready.) Poly requires that all mounts be replaced/converted; so if you're not ready to do that, don't convert.

How difficult are engine mounts? An after-noon with a couple of booze breaks, a floor jack, and hand tools. It's really not that difficult to do.

I can understand the "language barrier" you speak of with that, I have picked up a number of jargon words the last couple years in college and it has helped quite a bit. The best thing was when I started getting into this offroad stuff, I never knew what anything meant when talking to people or being near people when they talk about it. My friend who got me started taught me a lot about it and got me going on my own with it all. A while back I went to another friend of his' house to borrow his welder and we were all talking about this stuff like it was a dinner conversation, what I mean by that is I was able to understand everything we talked about and that was just awesome. Never having known any of that stuff prior to starting this Jeep build, then knowing all that we talked about was a really good feeling.

What's amazing isn't that you learn the jargon - what's amazing is that you end up talking it like you've been doing it all your life. At least, that's how it feels to me...

The bearing is in there, I looked at my Haynes manual and found out what and where everything is on there. The Trans' PO gave me the flywheel, clutch disk, pressure plate, t/o bearing and the release arm slave cylinder, plus the trans and t-case and associated shifters. It seems to be in good shape, but might as well replace it while in there...

Pilot bearing, I presume? If the pilot will fit, you can probably keep using it until you have to service the clutch next. If it won't fit, then get the one I mentioned that will.

That is cool. I do indeed lol. Not sure why, or if it is supposed to be there, but there is a plate screwed to the transmission tunnel... Kind of odd it seems to me, but could just be me. Also, I was looking at the donor driveline tonight and there are 2 wired connections on it. One on the trans and the other on the t-case. The trans one is 2 wires, and the t-case is a plug mounted to the case. What is the second one for? I tried to look at the ba-10 to try and figure out what was what, but crawling under it in the state it is presently in... I will wait to do that lol.

Does that plate have a rubber membrane in it that the shifter goes thru? That's a "weather dam" - removing it will get you splashed once in a while.

The two-wire connexion on the transmission should be the reverse lamp switch.

The two-wire connexion on the transfer case is probably the "mode indicator lamp" switch - but you can probably remove it and move your OEM vacuum switch over until you get quit of the front axle disco.

I will see what I can do locally. The clutch disk and pressure plate honestly seem like new, friend of mine who knows transmissions better than I said the same thing. To save a bit of money, could I just do the clutch disk? Or would that not be recommended at all? I would rather use what I have, I really am low on funds right now so... I will ask the clutch friend about it when he comes over next time.

If the iron friction surfaces are good, yes. If the composition friction surfaces are good, scuff them up with some 320-400 grit emery and throw it in - you'll be fine, as long as there's plenty of material left on the clutch plate. Just make sure there aren't any blue spots or clusters of cracks on the iron (that's "heat checking" - and the only proper fix is replacement at that point. It's just something you should inspect for out of hand any time you have the clutch torn apart.)

Now onto an interesting little fact here... I looked at the MC tonight and I think it may have already been replaced. Someone here already mentioned that the 88 one should be one bolt and a one piece plastic line to the SC. Well, my setup appears to be 2 bolt MC, and the line to the SC is part rubber and part steel. Any idea what to make of that? lol. I was kind of at a loss when I found that lol. lI guess I will have to pull the MC and line and take a closer look at it to verify the parts correctly.

Hm. Mine is still OEM, and it's a two-bolt with the rubber/steel line and 1/4" SAE flare fitting. If it was the plastic (probably Nylon) line, I'd have changed it out years ago. There's no pressure booster on the clutch, but the pressure in the line can still be signficant - why take chances and cheap out?

 

[kastein]

yeah, engine mounts are easy...

My favorite method is to hook up the engine hoist, lift the engine till the body just barely stops rising, pull the air filter housing (13mm socket wrench and some extensions), loosen the bolt through the driver side mount, then raise/lower the hoist till the bolt spins pretty freely. This means there is no weight on it anymore. Yank the bolt, pull the two bolts/studs holding the mount in (15mm here) toss the new mount in, put the bolts/studs back in loose, get the through-bolt in and the nut on loosely, tighten the 15mm bolts/studs, tighten the through bolt, switch to the other side and repeat. You may need to pull the oil filter and/or alternator to get the through bolt out of the passenger side, I forget.

As for the tranny mount and crossmember, once you get the bolts loose the first time they are EASY. I did mine in a bestbuy parking garage last week in under 15 minutes with the vehicle still running (it was cold and the heat from the exhaust and drivetrain was keeping me sane), jacked the tranny up, took the crossmember off, supported the exhaust with another jack, pulled the mount, put the new mount and crossmember on. Done. Definitely a 1 beer job if it has been off in recent history, maybe a 2 or 3 beer job if the bolts are a bit seized.

 

[Paintballpsyco2369]

Hmmm...



Haynes can hit a straight pitch once in a while. Don't count on it - if all you have is a Haynes, plan on dropping $20 on a Chilton's when you get a chance. Also, you can find a 1989-1990 FSM set on eBay secondhand for a decent price with a little pillaging around, and the only thing that changed 1988/1989 was some wiring colours (but nothing that can't be sorted.)

Understandable - but a gearbox is easier than a slushbox. Hell, if you can handle a transfer case, you should be able to handle a gearbox - just make sure you have a good manual (let me know if you can't find one, I'll see what I can come up with. Hit me backchannel on that.)

As long as the gear oil is safe for use with Yellow Metal, the LSD FM additive won't harm anything. I did the same thing with my Peugeos before I finally got an AX - the LSD FM (two of the five XJs I had had it) that I added to gear oil out of hand won't harm anything, and actually helps function as an anti-scuff additive - like the organometallic salts in engine oil (ZDDP being most common) used through API Service Specification SL. Not having the anti-scuff won't cause your transmission any trouble, but you'll want to find SL or earlier for your engine - or stock up on GM EOS to add at each and every oil change where you fill up with API SM. Trust me on this.

Since your axle oil is likely to be a GL-5, and probably a synthetic (from what you're saying,) just check the label to see if you're good with copper & alloys (yellow metal.) If it's not on the label, check the manufacturer's site. If you don't see it there, use something else. The presence of the LSD FM won't make up for presence of sulphur-based EP lubes - if you've got the latter, you're still going to dissolve your synchroniser rings.

If you want to use engine oil, try 10W-40 first. It will get you through the winter, and will probably work well for the summer. If it doesn't, go ahead and step up to 20W-50, but monitor everything during the winter (same reason - I know how cold it can get up there...) When I had my Bug in northern IN, I'd replace one quart of engine oil with one quart of Marvel Mystery Oil for wintertime oil changes (air-cooled engine with magnesium crankcase and aluminum cylinders - damned thing was a bear to get warmed up on a winter morning...) and that helped. I figure you can get away with doing the same thing in your transmission in about the same ratio - one part in four.



If you're not going to change the engine mounts, get the elastomer transmission mount - save up to change all three this coming summer anyhow (it's not that much of a job, and if you change one of the three when the other two have heavy miles on them you're going to lose mounts inside of six months to a year anyhow. Be ready.) Poly requires that all mounts be replaced/converted; so if you're not ready to do that, don't convert.

How difficult are engine mounts? An after-noon with a couple of booze breaks, a floor jack, and hand tools. It's really not that difficult to do.



What's amazing isn't that you learn the jargon - what's amazing is that you end up talking it like you've been doing it all your life. At least, that's how it feels to me...



Pilot bearing, I presume? If the pilot will fit, you can probably keep using it until you have to service the clutch next. If it won't fit, then get the one I mentioned that will.



Does that plate have a rubber membrane in it that the shifter goes thru? That's a "weather dam" - removing it will get you splashed once in a while.

The two-wire connexion on the transmission should be the reverse lamp switch.

The two-wire connexion on the transfer case is probably the "mode indicator lamp" switch - but you can probably remove it and move your OEM vacuum switch over until you get quit of the front axle disco.



If the iron friction surfaces are good, yes. If the composition friction surfaces are good, scuff them up with some 320-400 grit emery and throw it in - you'll be fine, as long as there's plenty of material left on the clutch plate. Just make sure there aren't any blue spots or clusters of cracks on the iron (that's "heat checking" - and the only proper fix is replacement at that point. It's just something you should inspect for out of hand any time you have the clutch torn apart.)



Hm. Mine is still OEM, and it's a two-bolt with the rubber/steel line and 1/4" SAE flare fitting. If it was the plastic (probably Nylon) line, I'd have changed it out years ago. There's no pressure booster on the clutch, but the pressure in the line can still be signficant - why take chances and cheap out?

There are a few things I have seen in their manual that have been close to correct, but more so wrong than right lol. I would like to get a chiltons, but do they contain any info on an ax-15? I have looked through several different years of the Haynes books and have yet to see anything even mentioning the ax-15... Kinda pisses me off lol.


I will try to do some digging in the next couple days for a manual to see what I can come up with. Will let you know if and when I do. I think if I could get a good manual I can probably do it, or will at least attempt it when the time comes lol. As for that diff fluid, all I know is that it is the factory stuff from ford for all current axles and has the LS additive already mixed in. As for the engine oil, it has regular conventional oil in it now, at the next oil change though I am going to switch to, most likely, Mobil 1 10w30 synthetic. Of the minor digging and a few recomendations I have gotten for engine oil, that seems to be the best option in my case. I think I will play it safe and not use the diff fluid in the trans. It comes from a oil drum through the pipes and all to a "fill station" that weighs it out and everything. He is going to get me a few quarts of it that way I have some extra. I will just play it safe and keep it for the axle only. I will give it a go with that oil and see how it goes and all. What is the marvel mystery oil? Never heard of or seen it anywhere lol.

I was leaning that way anyways, I figure the elastomer would give a better ride quality, and is cheaper lol. I would like to just stay with the elastomer, at least for now I think all around. I will look into doing those I guess as well, going to have lots of good reading material for winter now I guess lol.

That is true. That was the exact feeling I had that night. Now when I am hanging out with otehr friends who are not quite into vehicles to this degree, I know more than they do now lol. ALbeit more jeep specific, but nontheless...

I meant the throwout bearing actually, it is still there and seems fine but I will replace while in there, might as well if the cost of a new one isn't too bad.

The plate does, I figure that's what it was, but I thought the plates were smaller, didn't notice how big it was till that night I looked at it lol. I will keep it for sure, but I will have to make a new rubber piece for it, the one there is cracked up a bit so... The transmission one is the one I need the new plug for correct? The first 2 things done to the Jeep (after stripping the interrior) were the front lift and axle swap. It has a 98 D30 regeared to 4.10 with the big u-joints and solid shafts instead of that CAD BS. Removed that hardline for it while I was in there too and plugged the "hardline engine bay connector" so it is disabled. The big "4 wire thing" at the back of the trans I figured out is the rest of the lines for that system, will be removing the remanents of that system once the ba-10 is on the ground. As for removing the indicator wires, should I just tie them up? Or cut somewhere?

I will give it a good look over and have my friends dad check it out for me too as he is more knowledgeable than I about them. In a typical replacement of the clutch, is it just the plate the gets replaced? Or the pressure plate and clutch plate?

This might not make much sense, but by OEM do you mean factory, or an OEM part that replaced the factory one? What you described (2 bolts with rubber and steel...) seems to be what mine is. I will take a closer look at those parts when I get to them. I have a few other things in the lineup first but still want to know everything I will be needing to do when I get to this part of the build.

yeah, engine mounts are easy...

My favorite method is to hook up the engine hoist, lift the engine till the body just barely stops rising, pull the air filter housing (13mm socket wrench and some extensions), loosen the bolt through the driver side mount, then raise/lower the hoist till the bolt spins pretty freely. This means there is no weight on it anymore. Yank the bolt, pull the two bolts/studs holding the mount in (15mm here) toss the new mount in, put the bolts/studs back in loose, get the through-bolt in and the nut on loosely, tighten the 15mm bolts/studs, tighten the through bolt, switch to the other side and repeat. You may need to pull the oil filter and/or alternator to get the through bolt out of the passenger side, I forget.

As for the tranny mount and crossmember, once you get the bolts loose the first time they are EASY. I did mine in a bestbuy parking garage last week in under 15 minutes with the vehicle still running (it was cold and the heat from the exhaust and drivetrain was keeping me sane), jacked the tranny up, took the crossmember off, supported the exhaust with another jack, pulled the mount, put the new mount and crossmember on. Done. Definitely a 1 beer job if it has been off in recent history, maybe a 2 or 3 beer job if the bolts are a bit seized.

The main issues I see myself having with doing those is this, I am working on this buuild under the assumption that everything there is still factory as so far 80-95% of everything is. Being an 88, those parts have not been touched in 22 years lol. I know I will have to do them at some point so for now I will have to put them off as long as I can. The other issue though, no lift of any sort lol. It does sound fairly simple though, thanks for the info on it.

LOL nice. I have to ask though, did they let you use their tools or did you have to use your own? lol. In my case the whole thing will be out of the vehicle, I will get the paltes I want to make measured out beforehand to accelerate the re-assembly process once we get the new one good to go. I am assuming they may be seized, will find out. Nice thing with no floors in the bolt areas, should help to remove them easier if they break, or soak heaving with pb blaster ahead of time lol. Any time I am under there lately I have been spraying everything I know will be coming out with the stuff so hopefully that will help is advance lol.



Thanks again for the help with this stuff guys, really helps a lot to be able to get info like this,

Paint

 

[5-90]

"OEM" can mean either "factory original" or "factory replacement" (which is often, but not always, identicaly to factory original.)

That's why you see "NOS" in catalogues directed at restorers - means "New Old Stock," and it's parts that have been sitting in the box in a back room at a dealer or a warehouse somewhere. Factory parts, just a little dusty.

 

[kastein]

The main issues I see myself having with doing those is this, I am working on this buuild under the assumption that everything there is still factory as so far 80-95% of everything is. Being an 88, those parts have not been touched in 22 years lol. I know I will have to do them at some point so for now I will have to put them off as long as I can. The other issue though, no lift of any sort lol. It does sound fairly simple though, thanks for the info on it.

LOL nice. I have to ask though, did they let you use their tools or did you have to use your own? lol. In my case the whole thing will be out of the vehicle, I will get the paltes I want to make measured out beforehand to accelerate the re-assembly process once we get the new one good to go. I am assuming they may be seized, will find out. Nice thing with no floors in the bolt areas, should help to remove them easier if they break, or soak heaving with pb blaster ahead of time lol. Any time I am under there lately I have been spraying everything I know will be coming out with the stuff so hopefully that will help is advance lol.



Thanks again for the help with this stuff guys, really helps a lot to be able to get info like this,

Paint

No worries. Mine were factory original parts from '91 and '96 which spent their entire lives in Alaska and the Northeast, and I haven't broken anything yet. Knowing when to stop, back off, apply pb-blaster and heat gets you a long way.

It was a parking garage at the best buy at the mall, not an actual garage... I just used it as a nice enclosed space with good lighting :roflmao: drove in, jacked the tranny up so it wouldn't fall on me, unbolted the crossmember and mounts, bolted the new ones on, threw the jack in the back of the jeep, and drove out again.

 

[Paintballpsyco2369]

"OEM" can mean either "factory original" or "factory replacement" (which is often, but not always, identicaly to factory original.)

That's why you see "NOS" in catalogues directed at restorers - means "New Old Stock," and it's parts that have been sitting in the box in a back room at a dealer or a warehouse somewhere. Factory parts, just a little dusty.

I had forgotten about the factory replacement variance's part lol. I am definately familiar with NOS stuff as well lol.

No worries. Mine were factory original parts from '91 and '96 which spent their entire lives in Alaska and the Northeast, and I haven't broken anything yet. Knowing when to stop, back off, apply pb-blaster and heat gets you a long way.

It was a parking garage at the best buy at the mall, not an actual garage... I just used it as a nice enclosed space with good lighting :roflmao: drove in, jacked the tranny up so it wouldn't fall on me, unbolted the crossmember and mounts, bolted the new ones on, threw the jack in the back of the jeep, and drove out again.

Nice, this one was apparently purchased originally in New York, I know it had been to Chicago, and ended up here in Michigan. Not sure where else it has been, but looked into it a bit lol. My thing is learning to stop lol. I for the most part have the rest down, especially the pb-blaster (TOTAL GODSEND!!!!). Sometimes though barely turning some of the bolts and they just straight up snap with hardly any pressure at all. Lots and lots of the pb-blaster though seems to be helping in a lot of situations.

Nice at the parking garage lol. Sounds fairly easy. I am glad though that I have it in a garage and all, will make it easier lol.

Thanks again for the assistance all,

Paint

 

[travisxj]

Hi, I have a 87 XJ originally with a BA/10. I am swapping that out for a AX15. Here are the questions I have:

1. I have the transmission mounted and it seems to be sitting fine. If this is so, could the pilot bearing size still be wrong? Is the concern that it is too big?

2. I am using the whole same clutch setup, is this ok?

3. I still have to find a NP231 with the 23 spline input, is the shaft also larger?

4. How have you guys taken care of the shift linkage for the t-case?

5. Can I use the same cross member mount, but just drill new holes or make a bracket?

6 Is there any other concerns?

 

[travisxj]

bump.....need some help guys.
Thanks,
Travis