• Welcome to the new NAXJA Forum! If your password does not work, please use "Forgot your password?" link on the log-in page. Please feel free to reach out to [email protected] if we can provide any assistance.

Knocking? Tapping? Loose flexplate? Video...

Thanks, Pictures would be great!

Blaine B. said:
I saw the torque recommendations somewhere a few days ago but it would be difficult to get a 1/2" torque wrench in there. I just applied loctite and used a 3/8" ratchet and tightened them pretty good, although not to the point where I would be worrying about snapping the bolts.

I still haven't got the inspection cover back on, I can get you some pics Sunday evening if you'd like if you still haven't found it by then. I've become sidetracked with other Jeep related projects and haven't given reinstalling the cover much thought yet.
Click to expand...
 
Hey, i got Many pictures of this process from last week when i done this. I got a sound and thought it might be the fix, (sadly for me its a cracked manifold.) But ill post up the pics, i was gonna do a post but thought everyone knew already. Also ill try and post the video of my sound, it might be helpful to have a few different known sounds on the same post?
 
honestly it makes sense.... cause when i had my center console pulled out and the plate that sits over the tranny (like an access plate) off, i heard it much clearer as if it was from right there, (because the bell housing is right there)
 
Ya Pics would be great! I am curious though. There are two locations to look at that have plates over them? I know of the cover over the Fly Wheel at the bottom front of the bell housing, but is there another that I need to look at?
I have had a similar noise from mine, and I have yet to find out what exactly it is and it drives me crazy, cause it sounds like a diesel truck!
 
Ok here we go. Remember though im the retard. Im not even positive that i done it right, but heres what i done after spending far to long searching.


This first pic is what i believe you should be looking at.

Youve got 4 bolts to undo. Two 13mm bolts and two 19mm bolts with nuts. In this shot you can only see the first 13mm and on the left you can see that 19mm nut.




Now as you can probably tell in this shot. That first 13mm bolt you aint gonna get a half inch drive socket on it because the oil sump plug is in the way. I couldnt even get my 3/8 drive socket on it. Youll need a wrench.


Now on this next shot You can see the other two bolts that you will need to undo. The bottom one is the 19mm and the one higher up is the 13mm. That 13 mm you can get a 3/8 inch drive socket on it.





This is what you should start to see when you take the bolts off.





I found slipping this plate off kinda tricky. Maybe you need abit of time with it. But i ended up bending the bottom right part of this plate over the bolt and also i flexed the top right part aswell as you can see here in the next shot.





More to follow in a sec.
 
When you slip the plate off this is what i saw.




A closer look at that (thingy) cog, you can see a bolt. I believe it was 15mm.





The problem here is that when you go to tighten it, that cog spins and you cant get any leverage on it. Eventually it will spin and then get caught on the left hand side of the cover like this (Also i could not get a 3/8 inch drive on that bolt because the oil sump was in the way. Youll need a wrench.




So heres what i heard to do. (Theres a few different ways but this is what i done).


You wanna try tightening that nut with your wrench but what your really looking to do is push the bolt a little further to the left as your under it. Then as it starts to get into the 7 o clock position, another nut will appear in the 3 o clock position. This newly appearing bolt is not obstructed by the oil pan so you can get a 3/8 socket on it.

Here it is roughly in the 7 o clock postion





This next shot you can see where it will appear. You havent got much room so you wanna keep your eye on that sucker for when it appears. (socket attached).



The problem is that you still havent got leverage as it will spin still. So i wedged it with a big flat screw driver like this





Ive got the above screwdriver wedged into one of the teeth on the cog and the drive shaft. Its pivoted on that bolt (that you cant seem to remove all the way anyhow because the exhaust is in the way). Not sure if its the best way, i read people put leverage on the oil pan and some guy on the exhaust to lever against?? but this is what i done to get leverage.


More to follow
 
well, ive gotta go to work, i thank you for these images, ill be back later tonight... and i hope some one will be on here to either confirm or deny what your doing which should solve my problem.
 
Heres another picture of me getting to that bolt. Here is where i tightend all four bolts (but one at a time.)





A guy on this thread said to undo those bolts some before tightening them. I wasnt aware of that but sounds good. Also not sure if this is correct but its what i done. Maybe its some help to someone. Maybe its what Mr Blaine done?? but i believe it is.

I dont know what the torque is for these bolts either. I just made sure they were tight which mine where.

And lastly would Mr Blaine (someone whom has helped me good in the past) mind if others downloaded some various engine knocking/tapping sounds on your post if they knew what the problem was, so we can all view it and give us a heads up. Or is that not a good idea?
 
Yeah no worries. If i got anything wrong please someone tell me. Also im not even sure 100 percent i was working in the right area even!(theres never enough photographs for retards like me!!) So please tell if i messed up or didnt go far enough.
 
Beat me to it! Here are my contributions....both the flexplate with the inspection cover removed, and then the inspection cover itself.

Yes I know the underside of my Jeep is disgusting. Leaky oil filter adapter o-rings have recently started leaking alot MORE (rather, spraying a little bit)

I tried removing the torx bolt holding the adapter to the block and couldn't break it loose for the life of me....actually wrecked my home made tool 3 times! I don't know what to do with it at this point....

FlexPlate.jpg

InspectionCover.jpg
 
were those bolts loose before you tightened them?
 
Who knows, I am not sure how much my rear main seal is leaking, and if it is leaking at all. I know the valvecover WAS leaking (some valve cover bolts were actually unthreading) and now the oil filter adapter o-rings are letting go more each day it seems. That damned torx bolt wont budge though.
 
well i new realize that you have an automatic tranny, where as i have an AX15 which is a little different... ill post some pictures in a minute... but basicly the panel that you tool off slid down from an upper panel. mine on the other hand has the starter attatched to it, is bolted on by the 3 lower bolts and is sandwitched between the engine and tranny
 






 
hey i got torque ratings from the detailed manual i downloaded.

Flywheel/Converter Housing Bolts 38Nm (28 ft. lbs.)
Flywheel/Crankshaft Bolts 143Nm (105 ft. lbs.)
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

Z
Whirring sound only heard from inside
Replies
7
Views
134
Z.m4v
Z
A
Rubber components
Replies
6
Views
124
75SV1
7
Z
1990 renix electrical issues
Replies
3
Views
124
cruiser54
C
R
Where to buy front caster clevis
Replies
7
Views
2K
Rallyrs
R
O
2000 XJ Failed Colorado Emissions high CO
2
Replies
27
Views
2K
Ken M
K
Back
Top