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Jeepra Dyno and Tuning Process

child9

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Austin, TX
It's been a bit since I've been active on the web...I'm buried in school working towards a BSME from UT so Fringe XVO and pretty much everything is taking a back seat to Differential Equations, Physics, and Statics right now, though there is no problem with any me doing any valve body work that anyone needs done. Threads are setup for that...you know the drill. The Jeep is being driven daily, and just a set of General Grabber HTS's are so much smoother than the old bustedy tires that were on it. The new tires also fixed the alignment. I purchased Dirtbound's 3-fan cooling setup and I couldn't be happier as well. Those upgrades add up to one thing: DYNO TIME. Anyway, the point of this thread is to help me document my progress while allowing other interested parties to follow along. That said, when I post it won't always be great news, successes, or "look how awesome I am on the internet". It will be a lot of descriptions, issues, and troubleshooting processes. Today is one of those days.

So! On the 14th I finally put the Jeepra on the dyno.

Good news:

She sounds GREAT and pulls smoove like butta. I pulled her 5 times without a hiccup. No overheating, no fluid leaks, no catastrophic issues. I feel very good about the solidarity and viability of this Jeep as it progresses further into being one of the sweetest vehicles on my planet.

Bad news:

Something is WRONG! I can't make her make boost and keep it. No matter what adjustments I made to the boost controller, the issue wasn't really affected. She spools up and hits 5-7 psi, but then almost immediately starts dropping back down and holds at about 2 psi.

There are several things off the top of my head that MAY cause this.

1.) Boost leak.
This could be caused by an misaligned clamp or anything else that would allow pressurized air to escape on its way from the turbo outlet to the intake plenum, including the BOV.

2.) Waste Gate Issue.
I put an EVO 8 turbo on a 2JZ. That turbo is normally mated with a 2.0L 4 cylinder engine. Without getting into too much detail (I don't wanna bore anyone) it is possible that the waste gate is being forced open by the exhaust gasses. The actuator is an unknown unit purchased from ebay (like the BOV).

So it could be something related to the two above or something else, but there was no way for me to troubleshoot since I just threw the Jeep on a dyno with no one around. All I could do was stand on the pedal, watch the gauges, and adjust the manual boost controller. More will come soon. I have a list of things scheduled for spring break in March. :)

Here is the original build thread in case you haven't already seen it, as well as the first test drive vid on you tube.

http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=1033211

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tm3-ku-rIiU

New video will be coming at some point.


-Chad

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I have worked for freightliner in the past and have owned a few turbo vehicles in my day so this is my guess. I would make a boost leaker tester tool. I use to use one to check for boostleaks. Google it and itll come up. I dont think thats your problem but thats the easiest one to check first. Once you figured that you're not leaking anywhere i would check the waste gate first. Im not sure if you have a internale or external waste gate but it sould like you could have a weak spring. the boost is overtaking the waste gate and just leaking out. Springs are usually super cheap. Try those two first and report back what you find.
 
Sounds a lot like the problem we were having. We would spool to about 6-7 psi by 3000 RPMs then it would fall off to 3 psi by redline. We tried tightening the wastegate arm but that didn't make a difference. Turns out when we were putting everything back together no one tightened the throttle body bolts so we had a big boost leak. With the bolts tight we could hold boost all the way to redline.
 
Once I'm holding boost I'll bring her up to 200 at the wheels. The goal of 450 will wait till I install a few drivetrain upgrades, though some think the stock axles and t-case will handle it.
 
I have done 90 psi and it is not recommended. You WILL find the next boost leak... the one you just created when your hose rips apart.

Try about 10 to 15 psi and use some soap and water in a spray bottle and soak the joints. Even a minor leak will show up.

Even better build a smoke tester from a fog machine and a leak is mega easy to find. Including exhaust leaks!

dave b
 
I'll change the axes to reflect power tomorrow, but calculated from the peak graph is:
(Torque)(Rpm)/5252
(4800)(194.36)/5252=177.63 HP
 
That's just the HP value at peak TQ. I've calculated the HP numbers higher up the rpm range to be:

5000rpm: (190lbft)(5000/5250) = 181hp
5250rpm: (183lbft)(5250/5250) = 183hp
5500rpm: (173lbft)(5500/5250) = 181hp
5750rpm: (162lbft)(5750/5250) = 177hp
6000rpm: (150lbft)(6000/5250) = 171hp
 
Do you have a boost graph to go along with those runs?
What ever your leak is, it seems fairly constant over 4 different pulls.
 
No, I am only using a single mechanical gauge for now. I will hopefully at least get to rule out boost leaks today. The primary suspect to me is the waste gate.
 
If those pulls at at about 2psi, the upside when you fix the leak and turn up the boost will be impressive.
 
Yeah I have a feeling that fixing the problem will likely result in something else breaking.
Isn't that the truth.

How did you get the trans to not upshift at 5000rpm?
 
I put it in "3", slowly went up through the gears, then floored it at about 2400 rpm while hitting the "record" button. It won't upshift into OD when it's manually in 3.
 
6000 rpm in 3rd gear, How fast is that? mph?
 
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