Jeep went wacky.

[SexJ1988]

Yep, it sounds scary as hell till you get use to it. You can do it slowly over time if you wish. I did at first, but I think I just dragged it out longer.

BTW, I wonder what oil you used versus what the PO used? I have heard of changing brands causing the sticky lifter noise!!!!!

Me, I would solve the #1 and #2 cylinder No-fire-miss-fire issue of possibly not firing before I pushed it!!!!!!! As if there is raw gas going into cyl #1 and 2 that stays unburned it can be drying out the lube points and adding to the lifter noise!!!!! And thus a good reason for not pushing the RPMs up yet.

At least you have the MMO in there now. But once you know that all six cyls are firing properly and it runs at a steady idle, do not let the lifter noise keep you from working the RPM systematically higher till the lifters free up. Nothing wrong with letting the engine run a few times and letting the MMO soak in first before pushing the RPMS up to the sweet range that forces the lifters to free up finally and quite the engine back down.

Replacing fuel filter tonight as precaution, and going to make sure injectors are plugged correctly, and making sure firing order is correct. Other than that going to check grounds and hope it runs right.


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[Ecomike]

See if you can score a noid light for the XJ jeeps to test for the firing signal at each fuel injector pigtail connection. It is one of the GM Noid lights.

This kit online is well worth the money, it also has a tester for Renix jeep IAC controller pig tail connector and the fuel injector Noid light.

Both test the connector, wiring and the ECU computer to see if the injector is getting a signal and power.

Only way to test an injector for leaks is to pull the fuel rail/injector assy, leave the injectors clipped to the fuel rail and prime the fuel pump in run only, do not crank it!!!! If any of them drip then the valve is not closing and is leaking fuel.... and flooding that cylinder causing miss fires and De-oiling that cylinder wall piston and rings which can wipe out a cylinder wall very fast.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/27082420545...iewitem=&sspagename=ADME:L:OC:US:3160&vxp=mtr

 

[SexJ1988]

See if you can score a noid light for the XJ jeeps to test for the firing signal at each fuel injector pigtail connection. It is one of the GM Noid lights.

This kit online is well worth the money, it also has a tester for Renix jeep IAC controller pig tail connector and the fuel injector Noid light.

Both test the connector, wiring and the ECU computer to see if the injector is getting a signal and power.

Only way to test an injector for leaks is to pull the fuel rail/injector assy, leave the injectors clipped to the fuel rail and prime the fuel pump in run only, do not crank it!!!! If any of them drip then the valve is not closing and is leaking fuel.... and flooding that cylinder causing miss fires and De-oiling that cylinder wall piston and rings which can wipe out a cylinder wall very fast.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/27082420545...iewitem=&sspagename=ADME:L:OC:US:3160&vxp=mtr

Guess I'll be buying one Friday along with those vacuum hose sets lol


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[SexJ1988]

https://vimeo.com/183763314

First start all day


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[Ecomike]

https://vimeo.com/183763314

First start all day


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Sounds just exactly like mine on cold morning starts for 10-12 years. Mine always goes away when I rev it to 3500 to 4000 rpm and does not come back unless it sits for weeks or gets cold as hell over night. Cold is 40 F here LOL.

 

[Green Mesa XJ]

I'm behind on all new new posts, but You're in good company with Ecomike here.

I don't know much about sticking lifters, i had been curious if the oil was getting through to those lifters when you had the cover off. But that may not be important anymore.

Do you still have two cylinders not firing?


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[SexJ1988]

6-1 left - right

They we ALL installed Monday night..


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[SexJ1988]

Posted that in wrong spot.


All there were replaced Monday.

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[Bent]

I may have missed it but what became other the MAP sensor / vacuum line?

 

[SexJ1988]

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[SexJ1988]

If anything is out of place tell me because j won't know otherwise.

loose under brake fluid reservoir.

What's this? Under washer bottle

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[Bent]

I take I the other end of the vacuum line is sealed and tight in the throttle body?

EDIT: LOL, beat me to it.

 

[Ecomike]

I'm behind on all new new posts, but You're in good company with Ecomike here.

I don't know much about sticking lifters, i had been curious if the oil was getting through to those lifters when you had the cover off. But that may not be important anymore.

Do you still have two cylinders not firing?


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The lifters in the 4.0s tend to stick if run at low RPMs all the time. Something about running then periodically at 3500-4000 rpm forces the lifters to rotate again and frees them up. But you need MMO in there to help too. 5-90 taught me this trick a decade ago here.

 

[Ecomike]

That is not the washer bottle, that is coolant, under full pressure, reservoir bottle. Closed coolant system. That vac line should not be open. It may have gone to the vac storage bottle in the front bumper passenger side, or to a vac operated heater core coolant on/off valve. It is also near the AC vacuum line through the firewall to the AC/Heater damper controls in the dash. The heater core feed valve is just above the yellow handled oil dip stick.

What is going on with all that not connected stuff near the brake MC? Is that the remains of what use to be windshield washer fluid bottle/pump, wiring and hoses?

Tha MAP sensor vac tube in the throttle body does not look well sealed anymore, it looks like it is hanging on for dear life and may be leaking vacuum and forking with MAP data as I suggested early on. It is a weak point and I have seen back fires blow them out of the throttle body.

 

[SexJ1988]

The lifters in the 4.0s tend to stick if run at low RPMs all the time. Something about running then periodically at 3500-4000 rpm forces the lifters to rotate again and frees them up. But you need MMO in there to help too. 5-90 taught me this trick a decade ago here.

I added a qt of MMO


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[SexJ1988]

That is not the washer bottle, that is coolant, under full pressure, reservoir bottle. Closed coolant system. That vac line should not be open. It may have gone to the vac storage bottle in the front bumper passenger side, or to a vac operated heater core coolant on/off valve. It is also near the AC vacuum line through the firewall to the AC/Heater damper controls in the dash. The heater core feed valve is just above the yellow handled oil dip stick.

What is going on with all that not connected stuff near the brake MC? Is that the remains of what use to be windshield washer fluid bottle/pump, wiring and hoses?

Tha MAP sensor vac tube in the throttle body does not look well sealed anymore, it looks like it is hanging on for dear life and may be leaking vacuum and forking with MAP data as I suggested early on. It is a weak point and I have seen back fires blow them out of the throttle body.

I'll double check the lines in the AM. I'm about to just buy a junkyard engine from St. Louis with a warranty and then master rebuild this one. All new EVERYTHING.


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[SexJ1988]

Just need to get this thing drive able as soon as I can.


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[SexJ1988]

And on that topic. What all years can I replace the engine with? Does it have to be a renix or?


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[Ecomike]

Spark plugs, looks at first like it is running rich on some cylinders, but my experience says they are oil fouled from leaking valve stem seals. If they are like my 87, the valve guides are worn too much on #1 ans #2 for new valve stem seals to last more than a few 1000 miles. Once the plugs oil foul, (only takes 300-1000 miles on mine), they miss fire and unburned gas and black carbon build up and foul the plugs more and dilute the engine oil leading to thinning the oil, oil pressure drop at operating temps and more oil leaking past the valve seals and it just gets worse till you change the plugs. I gave up on the plugs you are using and switched to FR5 #7373 NGK plugs for now on the cylinders that have bad valve stem seals. In my case that is cyl #1 and #2.

I may even go to FR4 NGK hotter plugs till I have time to swap the head, or get the head serviced. Hotter plugs burn off the carbon/oil that grounds out the spark and causes miss fires. Your test drive may have been on new plugs???

 

[Ecomike]

If the compression is good all you need is the head serviced.