Jeep Driver
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Parrottsville
There is no EGR on a '97
There is no EGR on a '97
Wouldn't an open EGR (error) and a working O2 sensor make the ECU add fuel and raise the idle speed? Thus running the engine rich (smell at the exhaust), with the O2 running lean, but the engine actually running rich?
Never gave the EGRs much thought, never had a bad one since I had a 78 Dodge, and when it went bad I could smell the carburetor side of the EGR rubber hose smoking like crazy, it stunk, and was easy to diagnose. but your comments have me thinking. Never read of a confirmed issue cause by an EGR here except yours. Not even a failed tailpipe issue that I recall. But I see your point, has me thinking now.
234k but the sensors are new. This is my third set, something keeps frying them. I'm thinking I have a short maybe. I've narrowed it down, because the same thing is frying my TPS since I'm on the 3rd one... It's something in that wiring harness, does anyone know where I can buy one?Downstream o2 sensor, or connector.
How many miles?
I'll look into it tomorrowWell wait a sec.
Lets deal w/ the tps thing first.
You sure its n.g.
You have to find the "reference" voltage first and then the "signal" voltage.
Any chilton or Haynes manual should be able to give the info.
234k but the sensors are new. This is my third set, something keeps frying them. I'm thinking I have a short maybe. I've narrowed it down, because the same thing is frying my TPS since I'm on the 3rd one... It's something in that wiring harness, ....
I should also note that my vehicle was runningASD was fine, IAC/throttle body was fine, TPS ground tested fine
However when I ohm tested my injectors, the reasons were between 100-400 ohms. That's a lot higher than 12 ohms. Could it be something in here?
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My bad, by "testing for voltage drop" I meant I put the red lead on the hot post, and the black lead to the ground on the frame and the engine. It stopped working Monday due to volt drop because it was only reading 2v, hot post to ground. Cleaned it off, everything ran great aside from the current issues.Sounds like you need to learn how to use a multi meter?
Never heard of "tested for voltage drop from battery to ground and it was 12 v through and through." unless you are testing for a huge drop in something like a starter circuit to the starter and in that case voltage drop of 12 volts is very bad, and I doubt that is what you meant?
And you do not test anything for ohms with the power on "I should also note that my vehicle was running"
You disconnect the electric pigtail on one injector at a time (so you do not crisscross them later), and test the injector while it is totally isolated electrically for vehicle power and wiring.
You test resistance using the 0-200 (for most meters) ohms scale, power off from the sensor ground wire at the sensor to battery negative post, and you wont less than one ohm. Test the meters internal resistance by shorting the two test leads, if the meter reads say 0.9 ohms and the sensor wire ground reads 2 ohms, then take 2.0 - 0.9 = 1.1, means it is 1.1 ohms actual resistance for the wire.
About 1.0 ohms or less is OK. Over 1 ohm is a sign of corrosion, loose contacts...
Should be about .2 ohms on good wiring.