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thanks mgrobe. i actually realized that i already have a dana 44 in the rear and was also wondering if that would be worth swapping out. i could just build it but then what would i do when i reaplace the front... run a set of rims on 4.5 in bolt pattern and the front set on 5.5?
thanks mgrobe. i actually realized that i already have a dana 44 in the rear and was also wondering if that would be worth swapping out. i could just build it but then what would i do when i reaplace the front... run a set of rims on 4.5 in bolt pattern and the front set on 5.5?
I know of more than a few that are driving D30/D44 with 35" Swampers. With a conscious accelerater foot you can probably stave off breakage with what you have. On the otherhand if your type of fun involves full throttle assaults then I would pursue greater strength.
If I was you I would lean towards standing pat with what you have, unless you require lower gearing than wht the front axle can give you.
Once again what I have said depends upon your driving style and the type of trails you'll see.
Hmm.. I can't see how a front D60 can be built nearly as cheaply as a front D44. Rebuildable front Ford HP D60 go for around $1K, HP D44 go for $250-$300. Every single part in a D60 is more than the same part on a D44, an ARB is nearly $100 more. Shafts are way more, flat top knuckles, bearings all much more.
Is 60s overkill? Sure but who cares it's your junk. Pop them bad babies in and go for it.
Will you still break? Hell yea. If you try hard you will.
If you really don't want to break at ALL? Don't off! Stay home under your bed. Then you never break.
Else learn to drive and when to say no. I don't need that.
Your head is your best tool! Use it a lot and your wallet less. Then breakage/cost WILL be minimum.
thanks mgrobe. i actually realized that i already have a dana 44 in the rear and was also wondering if that would be worth swapping out. i could just build it but then what would i do when i reaplace the front... run a set of rims on 4.5 in bolt pattern and the front set on 5.5?
It can be done, but you have to find some deals and shop around. I picked up a low pinion dodge D60 kingpin for next to nothing(I needed a passenger drop and I didn't want to retube), put an ARB in it, 35spline outers, high steer arms, new R&P, new brakes, drive flanges, bearings, seals, etc... for around 2200. The only things that aren't new is the housing, tubes, inner C's, knuckles, and hubs. I had about 1800 in the Scout II D44 front I built, and it didn't have an ARB. Had I built an 44HD it probably would have been a little cheaper as the Scout brakes aren't exactly cheap.
If you are building one from the ground up, a 60 isn't that much more if you can find a cheap housing.
I don't believe in the "it'll last if you drive cautiously" thing. I'd rather just go wheeling and let gravity be the deciding factor in whether I make something or not. :gag:
After breaking one inner 60 shaft and one stock outer stub shaft (blew the crap outta that one), I've since put all cro-moly stuff up there and haven't had a problem. $689 incl. shipping for 35-spline inner and outer shafts with brand-new Spicer joints, $500 for the detroit, $160 for the gears, and probably another $200 or so for new wheel bearings and seals, new calipers & pads & rotors, etc. Got the axle for free once I scrapped & parted the rest of the truck it was under. So it's not that hard to build a near bombproof front axle for under $2k, and it wouldn't be much cheaper for a 44...and I would probably be exploding 44 parts every trip out still.
It's only overkill if you've broken lesser things.
60s are heavy and that weight will affect the suspenion and suspension mounts as well. The added stress of those axle will require you to possible rethink/reengineer the suspension you run. I didn't see any specs for what you are running now.
Keep in mind that this is only a consideration in a rig that will be wheeled. If this is a dd that sees some ruts and small rocks then go for it.
What kind of front suspension you planning on running? Converting the new axle to coil spring? Leaf conversion?
i am planning on keeping the desighn of the wishbone 3 link i made just rebuilding out of heavier material. enventially put coil overs in the front and as well in the back with either a triangulated 4 link or a 3 link again.
I'm pretty sure that I've spent less building my D60/14B than I did my D44's. Sure the D60 front costs more to build than a 44, but putting a 14 bolt in the rear makes up the difference... slap 200 bucks worth of disc brakes on it, throw a CHEAP detroit in(or weld it) and you are golden.
I have 37's on a HP44/35 spline 9" but am easy on it and with a auto tranny you are less likely to break stuff then with a manual tranny. Like people are saying a 60/14 bolt isn't much more to build then dual 44's, but then again with the 14 bolt you have a boat anchor rear axle and are limited with how low of a gear you can go. Isn't 5.13s the lowest gear now? I thought 4.56 or 4.88s were the lowest not that long ago, but with 14 bolts being so cheap and strong many are running them and never worrying.
If I was going to do 60's and plan for 37" tires, I'd go front: HP60/rear: FF60
Awesome stock Ford combo that you cannot go wrong with. Just HP60's are so expensive especially the King Pin versions, but they are the strongest OEM front axle out there so try to get just the housing, or better yet, just the HP 60 diff and retube it to the axle length you want...because you are going to want to build it up with the good stuff anyways.
Mall Crawling in sweetness takes 60's, you never know when you need to climb some cars!!!! :roflmao:
:shocked: .....and no lift, just lots of cutting of the fenders....:shocked:
Seriously though the HP30/44 setup you have will be fine, stick with it and don't stick lots of $ into the 30 up front. 60's are really overkill on a XJ...but then again if you are serious about wheeling and running 60's....I doubt you even have a XJ anymore at that point (unibody, clean sheet metal,...U know a grocery getter). :shocked:
i am planning on keeping the desighn of the wishbone 3 link i made just rebuilding out of heavier material. enventially put coil overs in the front and as well in the back with either a triangulated 4 link or a 3 link again.
If you were unsure about terminology, it sounds like you at least know what you wanna build. Enough time around the jeep and it'll come, I remember when i didn't know what a trac bar was
I would stick with your current setup, just get chromoly shafts up front with beefy axle joints.
