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interesting oil leak

the blowby will still be pushing the oil outta the cover when it's runnin' and now it's just gonna get blown all over everything else:shiver: For the first week or so, you'll thing you're superman cuz it won't be dripping all over the place, but that'll change as the oil starts filling up all the new crevices that are catching the drips. Not to mention it will start to smell like oil vapor and burnt oil anytime you start her up! (don't ask me how I know)

It's environmentally unfriendly, and makes a mess everywhere you park(or even pause), but the biggest worry should be the wires (read GROUNDS) and vacuum lines that will deteriorate from the excess oil bath.

I cleaned the cover and CCV ports and reduced the oil loss from a quart a month to less than a quart every oil change:yap:-- now for the freeze plugs leaking on the back of the head and/or block, I'll keep adding coolant and helping reduce the local population of stray cats until the stroker in the garage is done!!

good luck!!
--Shorty
 
okay so im bringing this back for you all with an update. i had a buddy/mechanic help me do a compression check on what he says is a real healthy motor that just sat for to long.
here are results
#1 150
#2 150
#3 140
#4 140
#5 135
#6 135
they all held compression and didnt drop as well.

I didnt write them down, im an idiot i know but from what he says this is good and one and two have near to new compression. funny thing though. when we pulled plug from cylinder one the fitting for compression tool was still on there and plug was attached. like person before was to lazy to put it back in. we put plug back in and on start up made a "oh my gosh" i have a dirty valve and more spark noise and fired up good made a tick for a minute and went away. now it has a lot less startup crank time as well. anyways just thought i would share that. he then told me, and said he swears by it in all of his and his customers vechicles, a quart of atf fluid in block. run it for a couple hundres miles and then oil change. well i was hesitant but i trust him and all his happy customers so i did this, drove home about 10 to 15 miles, part freeway, which was where a lot of oil problem happened. i checked and it is still definitly leaking, but not like before. the puddle in ratio to before is like a leaky rear main rather than a decent puddle. i think i am going to pull off valve cover and do some serious cleaning and see what happens in the next couple weeks once i run the atf for a while and do a oil change.
again what should i be focusing on again when i pull valve cover off?
 
I made a large "soup" catch can, used steel scrubbers as filter, pieces of another lid as baffles, J.B. welded together and large bolt on the bottom as a drain. Now my engine no longer self lubricates.
 
call me crazy, but what about just plumbing it back into the system? instead of puking into the airbox it just goes back into the oil pan through a bung or a filter adapter or something?
 
I would worry about carbon from the blowbye and unburned fuel vapor getting re-intruduced into the oil-- probably wouldn't kill anything quickly, but it'll deteriorate the oil in relatively short order. These are the same poluttants that will kill your oil over a few months even if you don't drive alot-- they're the reason your oil change recomendations usually say XXX miles OR XX months.

--Shorty
 
my dad made a joke with me about doing that as well. Do these numbers for the test seem okay to you guys or should i be looking in a different direction?
 
oil3.jpg

ghetto, but a solution.
 
bcsavage said:
yes but if he's getting blowby it's getting into the oil anyway. I was just thinking about the mess factor.

very true, but it's being blown out the CCV and it's getting replaced with new oil. I see the point, but I wouldn't feel comfortable knowingly reintroducing known bad oil back into the crankcase-- much less telling someone else it sounds like a good idea.
take it for what it's worth (free advice)
--Shorty
 
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