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Installing factory trailer wiring

Ok so I just put everything in the Jeep today and it was easy! After I bolted the hitch up, I ran the wiring into the small hole in the quarter panel under the car. I kept the grommet off the hitch wiring at the junk yard and just discarded the one on my Jeep. I removed the drivers side panel behind the spare tire and I noticed a wiring set bolted on with a plastic holder. I simply unplugged everything and hooked up the tow harness. Everything was there, including the wire for the electric brake! After putting everything back in, I simply backed up to the car trailer, hooked up the 7 pin wiring harness, and everything worked great! What a simple and safe way to add a tow package to the Jeep. If anyone needs a more detailed write up I can whip something out.
 
Did you find and hook-up the brake wire in front to a controller?
 
dagr8tim, as far as the map light dome light issue, they should have the same mounting - it's two little screw/stud things that have #8 threads, a 1/4 or 8mm "nut", and then about 5/8" of straight non threaded stud. They screw into the ceiling cross member / stiffener and the light goes over them, then some push nuts. If you want to install an OHC you unscrew the two stud things and screw in the backend bracket for the OHC using the same two screw holes. The only real difference is the size of the cutout in the headliner, the standard dome light has the smallest one, the map light dome light has one that goes a bit further forward, and the OHC obviously has the largest cutout.

EDIT: forgot to mention, if you can't find a place to buy pushnuts, just don't mangle the old ones too badly taking them out (I find grabbing them with needlenose pliers and carefully twisting them slightly while pulling them off helps), then carefully re-flatten them using a pair of pliers and reuse them. I've reused mine three times now without any problems.
 
dagr8tim, as far as the map light dome light issue, they should have the same mounting - it's two little screw/stud things that have #8 threads, a 1/4 or 8mm "nut", and then about 5/8" of straight non threaded stud. They screw into the ceiling cross member / stiffener and the light goes over them, then some push nuts. If you want to install an OHC you unscrew the two stud things and screw in the backend bracket for the OHC using the same two screw holes. The only real difference is the size of the cutout in the headliner, the standard dome light has the smallest one, the map light dome light has one that goes a bit further forward, and the OHC obviously has the largest cutout.

EDIT: forgot to mention, if you can't find a place to buy pushnuts, just don't mangle the old ones too badly taking them out (I find grabbing them with needlenose pliers and carefully twisting them slightly while pulling them off helps), then carefully re-flatten them using a pair of pliers and reuse them. I've reused mine three times now without any problems.

Thanks for the info on the OHC cutout! I am planning on at least running the wiring for this puppy this weekend. The only issue I have with this console( that I paid ten bucks for) is that the fabric is grey and I have a tan interior. Anyone have any suggestions on how to remedy the problem for cheap? This 99' is in pristine shape and I would really like it to look as factory as possible.
 
What I did was go to JoAnne Fabrics (I was like the only guy in the store :roflmao:) and get one yard of the headliner material I wanted. Cost me $15. You'll need either fabric glue (better) or spray adhesive (faster, lazier, but more frustrating and not as good adhesive) to attach the new cloth. Fully disassemble the OHC, it mostly snaps together but can be a pain in the butt. Scrape/pull all the old fabric off, bring it into the shower and scrub the rest of the old decaying foam off, then glue the new fabric on. You'll want to stretch the fabric as you go - but follow their directions EXACTLY! I put my fabric on a little too soon after I sprayed it with adhesive and the foam got saturated with it and sunk slightly so it looks just a little lumpy, if I had waited longer it would not have done that. Once it's stretched on, wait for it all to dry (you might have to hold it onto the inside around the edges using tape temporarily) then trim around the holes and such. You'll want 1/2" to 1" of extra around the edges to fold back so it doesn't pop out. Reattach all the hardware and you're done!

The screw that holds it to the ceiling at the front is a 3" long #8 screw at least on a 96. The little plastic piece of trim in that recessed hole can be pried out carefully and the fabric removed from behind it. Then just find the hole behind the new fabric with your finger and jam the plastic trim back in (properly aligned, it has a ridge along the back edge) and it'll break the fabric and keep it under tension. I'm not sure how this all jives with the 97+ design changes but keep your eyes open while breaking the thing down and you'll be able to put it back together just fine.
 
What I did was go to JoAnne Fabrics (I was like the only guy in the store :roflmao:) and get one yard of the headliner material I wanted. Cost me $15. You'll need either fabric glue (better) or spray adhesive (faster, lazier, but more frustrating and not as good adhesive) to attach the new cloth. Fully disassemble the OHC, it mostly snaps together but can be a pain in the butt. Scrape/pull all the old fabric off, bring it into the shower and scrub the rest of the old decaying foam off, then glue the new fabric on. You'll want to stretch the fabric as you go - but follow their directions EXACTLY! I put my fabric on a little too soon after I sprayed it with adhesive and the foam got saturated with it and sunk slightly so it looks just a little lumpy, if I had waited longer it would not have done that. Once it's stretched on, wait for it all to dry (you might have to hold it onto the inside around the edges using tape temporarily) then trim around the holes and such. You'll want 1/2" to 1" of extra around the edges to fold back so it doesn't pop out. Reattach all the hardware and you're done!

The screw that holds it to the ceiling at the front is a 3" long #8 screw at least on a 96. The little plastic piece of trim in that recessed hole can be pried out carefully and the fabric removed from behind it. Then just find the hole behind the new fabric with your finger and jam the plastic trim back in (properly aligned, it has a ridge along the back edge) and it'll break the fabric and keep it under tension. I'm not sure how this all jives with the 97+ design changes but keep your eyes open while breaking the thing down and you'll be able to put it back together just fine.

Looks like I'll be keeping an eye out for a fabric store then. Thanks for the info! If I get around to doing it this weekend I'll post some results. Still haven't figured out how I will mount that back bracket.
 
Back bracket is easy as long as you got it from the junkyard along with the OHC - just bolt it up. You'll want two 3/8" or 1/2" #8 self tapping metal screws. Unless you're talking about the hook thing at the very back of the OHC that goes over the headliner, in which case, here's what I did:
* ran a strip of masking tape from the center button of the rear dome light to the rear screw hole for the back bracket (this gives a nice centering reference)
* screw the front of the OHC in but leave the rest hanging free, support with hand
* line it up so you can see where the headliner bracket hook thing meets the body of the OHC (MUST be inside the outside edge of the OHC if you want it to look good), make a pen mark here
* draw a 4.5" (if I recall correctly, measure the width of your OHC's headliner bracket hook thing) line across the masking tape, centered on it
* line it all up again and make sure you didn't do anything mind bendingly stupid like draw in the wrong direction
* cut and pray.

Oh, and you can get the little plastic anchor things for mounting the front at AutoZone - a pack of 15 cost me like $2.50, they're intended for a #8 screw. You may have to trim the corners a little to get it to go in, use the round center hole right between the two holes for mounting the IR remote receiver.

(again, this is all for a 96, sadly I've never seen a 97+ at the junkyard with an OHC...)
 
Back bracket is easy as long as you got it from the junkyard along with the OHC - just bolt it up. You'll want two 3/8" or 1/2" #8 self tapping metal screws. Unless you're talking about the hook thing at the very back of the OHC that goes over the headliner, in which case, here's what I did:
* ran a strip of masking tape from the center button of the rear dome light to the rear screw hole for the back bracket (this gives a nice centering reference)
* screw the front of the OHC in but leave the rest hanging free, support with hand
* line it up so you can see where the headliner bracket hook thing meets the body of the OHC (MUST be inside the outside edge of the OHC if you want it to look good), make a pen mark here
* draw a 4.5" (if I recall correctly, measure the width of your OHC's headliner bracket hook thing) line across the masking tape, centered on it
* line it all up again and make sure you didn't do anything mind bendingly stupid like draw in the wrong direction
* cut and pray.

Oh, and you can get the little plastic anchor things for mounting the front at AutoZone - a pack of 15 cost me like $2.50, they're intended for a #8 screw. You may have to trim the corners a little to get it to go in, use the round center hole right between the two holes for mounting the IR remote receiver.

(again, this is all for a 96, sadly I've never seen a 97+ at the junkyard with an OHC...)

Again thanks for the info man. The OHC in the 97+ are few and far. I couldn't believe my eyes when I found it. Ill be printing these posts off. Im hoping to have the wiring done hopefully by tommorow
 
Wiring 99 jeep cherokee sport no tow package, So what color is the wire you tap into for the controller for the brake switch? Why do you have to run relays I am a little confused?
 
Wiring 99 jeep cherokee sport no tow package, So what color is the wire you tap into for the controller for the brake switch? Why do you have to run relays I am a little confused?

Blue,and it might still have a tag on it.
 
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