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Installing a aftermarket tranny cooler

souske said:
under what circumstances would you need to cool a manual?


Towing, high speed driving, low speed high rpm driving, hell, it's just good for the tranny.
 
2 things, but it sounds like I am too late.....

1. fiqure out a better mounting system. Those 'zip ties' will end up costing you a condenser. Mount it with metal brackets to the body, and make sure to use rubber bushings.

2. Hook the cooler in before the radiator. Reason? In NY the winters are cold enough that you want to warm the fluid up ASAP. If your aftermarket cooler is after the radiator it will take alot longer to warm up that fluid. What will happen here also is the fluid won't be over cooled.
 
Jeepxj94 said:
I just got a B&M racing SuperCooler with the Trans Temp Gauge and a Thermostatic Control Valve last week. Looking to install before I head to Trees Ranch this weekend. Never done this Mod before, but it should be easy.

- Scott



--The Thermostatic Control Valve is set to enable the cooler when fluid temp. reaches 180 degrees. Is that an ideal temp., or is something lower preferred in hot weather, assuming a sufficient cooling system..??
 
Anyone.....Buehler.....anyone...???


IS 180 an ideal temp. point for the AW4? i.e., would one want to permit a sufficiently-capable cooler to take it lower, or not...
 
XpedientJ said:
Anyone.....Buehler.....anyone...???


IS 180 an ideal temp. point for the AW4? i.e., would one want to permit a sufficiently-capable cooler to take it lower, or not...
Well put it this way the factory in radator cooler is going to be hotter than that so I would say your ok. I have the same set up with the cooler after the factory cooler, and the temp guage reading just where the fluid comes out of the valve. It seem to run about 140* on the interstate, and I have had it get up to 170* so far. Avrages around 150*/160*
 
IS there a minimum temp., below which fluid may not perform properly???

I'm considering a larger (20K BTU) cooler, given that it appears that the B&M Hi-Tek I purchased just won't fit where I expected it to...thanks to B&M publishing radiator-only dims. rather than OAL...:twak: IF it is better to stick with a 14K, or so, please advise.

Thanks.
 
As long as your tranny temp hits 100 degrees, it should be warm enough.

Watching my truck trans with external gauge installed. I run about 100-110 on a 04 dodge dually on the highway. Towing about 130. In traffic with TC unlocked and city driving about 150-170. If you start getting above 200, pull it over and let it cool a bit.

Only hit the 250 mark once, backing up about a half mile with a 36ft trailer hooked. Hit 250 cause I wasn't watching the gauge. Tranny was replaced a week later when it blew.

I know its not a AW4 in my truck but autos pretty much run the same. And thinking 180 degrees is the "normal operating temp" is crazy. Thats toasty for a Jeep without a load on the open road. More like 100 is good.

My XJ has the stock cooler and a 2nd cooler installed by me. No temp gauge on the trans. So I don't have numbers. Seems to run fine with 235k miles on it. I used the radiator tranny cooler for a powersteering cooler BTW.
 
Bouncy said:
I used the radiator tranny cooler for a powersteering cooler BTW.

I thought about doing that on my last jeep. Did you just use the low pressure return line and run it through the in-radiator cooler?
 
I've seen some assertions elsewhere that suggest temp. shouldn't be too low...?? Any other informed commentaries?

Sooooo, a Tru-cool MAX blowin' out 46,000 BTU wouldn't hurt, then...:shiver:


BTW, where, and how, have you gents been plumbing-in trans. temp gauges? I know there are ramifications re different temp-monitoring points....
 
DeftwillP said:
I thought about doing that on my last jeep. Did you just use the low pressure return line and run it through the in-radiator cooler?

I used double nipple barbs. cut low pressure line. Added hose to the rad tranny cooler. Since there is a high and low connector on the radiator, I put the fluid IN at the top connector and out at the bottom to return to the pump. Figured gravity might help the flow a bit but who knows.



Someone mentioned a tranny running TOO COLD...yes when the vehicle is first fired up and ran on a cold morning, the over drive doesn't engage on my truck till it has been running for about 5 minutes or so down the road. Lockup still works, just not overdrive. That is unless I get on the highway...then its speed dependent cause it does hit OD then. Its a double sensor on the truck. As for AW4...not sure if it has the same sensors as the truck. But for the most part...COLD is better than hot. Hot=thin fluid, less lube, clutches wear faster and send junk into the torque convertor. Clutches weld together and TC gets plugged and can lockup at a light launching the vehicle forward (Ask me how I know this)
 
Ok so im about to do this mod with a explorer cooler and need to know something..........Im in colorado can I bypass the rad cooler or would it be better to just add it after the radiator? Also witch one is the return line? Any help would be great...
 
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