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Insert lockder question.

Yep^ A chisle/ punch mark wont wipe off!

I learned the hard way.

spent 20 minutes redoing every hand motion I made, couldn't figure out if I had them correct vertically, said F it, it's a D35 anyway and slapped them back on.

it broke the ring gear teeth later.
 
that and getting the proper torque on the bolts.
a good torque wrench and clean lubricated bolts.


I do have a torque wrench.
Lubricated with loctite? And some axle grease on everything?


paint pen will not make a decent mark. I use a punch and put dots on them. I tried the paint pen once. It didn't go well. The metal is so saturated with oil it just wipes off when you touch it.[/QUOTE said:
Ok will do. Thanks for the heads up.
 
Good thought... i am not sure if there is thrust washers with the detroit ez locker. But i dont think the spartan locker needs the thrust washers. Correct me if am wrong.
You are right. I just reread the D35 manual from Spartan and it specifically says to remove the thrust washers. It does not say to reinstall them. Sorry I posted wrong earlier. That could have been a big mistake. The thrust washers stay out for the Spartan.
 
You are right. I just reread the D35 manual from Spartan and it specifically says to remove the thrust washers. It does not say to reinstall them. Sorry I posted wrong earlier. That could have been a big mistake. The thrust washers stay out for the Spartan.

Awesome, thanks for double checking for me.

Make sure you inspect the carrier thoroughly. Lunchbox lockers tend to crack the carrier in a D30 around the openings. I had one split the carrier in two.

Will do John. Thanks for the heads up.


:wave: Thank you everyone for your tips and advice. Looking forward to tackling this project.
 
Awesome, thanks for double checking for me.

If you need the installation manual, I have the pdf version of it and can email it to you. I also found the videos from Randy's ring and pinion super helpful too.
 
If you need the installation manual, I have the pdf version of it and can email it to you. I also found the videos from Randy's ring and pinion super helpful too.

Defiantly. Any and all info is helpful. Send me what you got. :D
PM Sent with email. Thanks
 
Got the diff cover off ( no metal pieces :yelclap:), hubs and shafts out. First thing Saturday morning time for the axle carrier to get the new locker. All looks good so far. Going to clean up and paint a few parts before everything goes back together. Will let you know how the locker goes. Lates
 
:helpme:

I can't get the carrier out :dunno:. I tried using a prybar but it wont budge. I'm I going to need a case spreader? It seemed to work with a prybar for everyone else...
 
It will come out, put a wrench on one of the carrier bolts and rotate the carrier down untill the wrench stops agaist the diff, Then use a pry bar between the yoke or if you got big enough channel locks and turn the yoke, The carrier will push right out.

It's a good sign that its still has good preload, I have had them fall right out before.
 
It will come out, put a wrench on one of the carrier bolts and rotate the carrier down untill the wrench stops agaist the diff, Then use a pry bar between the yoke or if you got big enough channel locks and turn the yoke, The carrier will push right out.

It's a good sign that its still has good preload, I have had them fall right out before.

Got it! Your awesome. I put the wrench on the carrier bolt and then used the prybar... a couble bangs with a hammer and pop it came loose. Nice trick.

Good to know there was still good preload. Will it still be the same when i go to install the carrier back?
 
Got it! Your awesome. I put the wrench on the carrier bolt and then used the prybar... a couble bangs with a hammer and pop it came loose. Nice trick.

Good to know there was still good preload. Will it still be the same when i go to install the carrier back?

It should. Your shims are pressed on behind the bearings, so you can't accidentally change/lose anything.
 
It should. Your shims are pressed on behind the bearings, so you can't accidentally change/lose anything.

Nice, good to know thanks.



So i got the new Spartan locker installed and the axle is all put back together. Everything worked out great, thanks for everyone's input. Just need to take the Jeep out for a text run.
Do i need to wear in the locker like new gears or is it safe to take right out to the trails?
 
THERES SOME VAGUE AND POSS WRONG INFO HERE...

TRUE INFO..

DO NOT USE ANY SIDE THRUST WASHERS WITH THE SPARTAN! THE AUSSIE AND LOCK-RITE DO USE THEM, BUT THE SPARTAN DOES NOT.

The spartan will come with a new cross shaft and roll pin, use them both in your stock carrier.

If you you have 4.11 ratio gears as stated in the sig, you will HAVE TO remove the ring gear from the carrier to get the shaft past teh ring gear. You will not be able to grind enough to make it clear. IF you had maybe a 3.07 you might or poss a 3.55 but a 4.11 will not even be close.

USE RED LOCKTITE (strongest you can find) when reinstalling the ring gear bolts in to the ring gear, and make sure carrier caps go back on the exact way they come off and your good to go.
 
THERES SOME VAGUE AND POSS WRONG INFO HERE...

TRUE INFO..

DO NOT USE ANY SIDE THRUST WASHERS WITH THE SPARTAN! THE AUSSIE AND LOCK-RITE DO USE THEM, BUT THE SPARTAN DOES NOT.

The spartan will come with a new cross shaft and roll pin, use them both in your stock carrier.

If you you have 4.11 ratio gears as stated in the sig, you will HAVE TO remove the ring gear from the carrier to get the shaft past teh ring gear. You will not be able to grind enough to make it clear. IF you had maybe a 3.07 you might or poss a 3.55 but a 4.11 will not even be close.

USE RED LOCKTITE (strongest you can find) when reinstalling the ring gear bolts in to the ring gear, and make sure carrier caps go back on the exact way they come off and your good to go.

Hey Robert. Thanks for that.
I did exactly that. Did not use the thrust washer and used the supplied cross shaft and roll pin. I took out the carrier and removed the ring gear. Marked the caps and ring gear and everything went back the way i took it off.
I am glad i went with the red loctite... 271 i believe. I didn't use a lot but enough to fill 4-5 threads. The normal amount i use.
 
Just an FYI for some of you in this thread worried about mixing the caps up: Dana/Spicer diffs are marked at assembly (by the assembler) with a lettered punch in the caps and housing, in a specific orientation...a sideways "T" right next to a sideways "T" for example.
 
Took the Jeep out over the weekend. Ran like a champ. The locker worked flawlessly and performed very well.
 
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