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Important

Fore Wheeler said:
Any idea what he gets for fuel mileage?
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Camille daily drove her 07.5 which was a LMM, but with the tuner set to economy/tow a solid 22 to 23 mpg was the norm on hwy...and that's hand calculated, not the dream meter. JR has an 05 and he gets @20 with his tuner set in performance mode
 
That’s a nice deal, thanks for the link chuck. No real interest in mine since I’ve had it for sale so I may gear it for that price. Got one customer that wants gears too. I’ll install them for the cost of my gears. Win win.
 
Can't complain about my LMM LTZ. Parked during winter, somewhat daily driven the other 3 seasons when I am home. Only maintenance I have had to do is fluid changes and replaced one glow plug besides minor upgrades.

LBZs are very desired so they get some extra $$$, probably get a LMM for about the same price.
 
MKR5150 said:
Well it's gear choice time for the 2dr thats taken way to lpng to get dug out. I have a few options, I have a XJ d44 rear with 4.88s that needs discs swapped on, a 8.25 with 4.10s and discs but welded spiders(lived under the buggy for 5 years with no issues, have siders to switch back to open if I want), both would need a front axle geared to match, or get that 4.56 combo that was linked to run them. Jeep will be 4.5" lift, 231sye, stiffners and box rockers, ether a y-link front long arm as I have 2 to choose from in the shop or drop brakets. Lift components are not an issue but it will always live on 33s and 'light' wheeled but mostly this thing is being built to be one of my last XJ builds to keep around for a long time.

So long story short. I have a XJ d44 4.88s, 8.25 4.10s both would need only front geared. Or regear ether to 4.56. What would be the better long-term choice?
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Revolution gears ftw
 
I thought I'd pass this on from MN4WDA FB feed.

MNWDA Club Minnesota Go 4 Wheelers have updated their admission requirements, beginning this year. The Go 4's have reverted to attendance requirements in place in the early 2000’s; that is to limit attendance to MN4WDA clubs only (no individual members). This decision was made because of concerns from the land owner at Trollhaugen about people disrespecting the property. After all, it was clubs that helped build the Dresser facility in the years prior to opening attendance.

This WILL NOT effect their winter run on March 3.

The Go 4's released this statement:
"Change ahead….due to concerns of the landowner, the Minnesota Go-4 Wheelers have reverted Midwest (held in August) and Go-4-It-All (held in October) back to “invite only” status. The only open to the public event at Trollhaugen will be our annual Total Off-Road Rally held each year over Memorial weekend."

If you would like to attend Minnesota Go 4 Wheeler's events, be sure your MN4WDA member dues are paid for 2018 and that you are on a MN4WDA club roster. To find a club, please visit our club page: https://www.mn4wda.com/about-the-mn4wda/club-contacts/

With any questions, comments, or concerns, please visit the Minnesota Go 4 Wheelers page.
 
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MKR5150 said:
Well it's gear choice time for the 2dr thats taken way to lpng to get dug out. I have a few options, I have a XJ d44 rear with 4.88s that needs discs swapped on, a 8.25 with 4.10s and discs but welded spiders(lived under the buggy for 5 years with no issues, have siders to switch back to open if I want), both would need a front axle geared to match, or get that 4.56 combo that was linked to run them. Jeep will be 4.5" lift, 231sye, stiffners and box rockers, ether a y-link front long arm as I have 2 to choose from in the shop or drop brakets. Lift components are not an issue but it will always live on 33s and 'light' wheeled but mostly this thing is being built to be one of my last XJ builds to keep around for a long time.

So long story short. I have a XJ d44 4.88s, 8.25 4.10s both would need only front geared. Or regear ether to 4.56. What would be the better long-term choice?
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I have way too little experience to answer this equation. I got performance back with 4:56 so I can only imagine 4:88. In your shoes, with my limited experience, I would go 4.88. WooHoo.


need-a-bow said:
Im curious what your fuel mileage is like with those. I was getting 17mpg on the highway with 4.10s and 33 but have to keep it under 70MPH. Other than gears, our jeeps are pretty close.

Sent from my SM-G955U1 using Tapatalk
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I have not kept track of fuel mileage(ever). I don't drive more than 100 miles in a week, so kinda hard to keep track. I will try to remember to keep track on the WF trip and let you know what it is getting.


csailors said:
That’s a nice deal, thanks for the link chuck. No real interest in mine since I’ve had it for sale so I may gear it for that price. Got one customer that wants gears too. I’ll install them for the cost of my gears. Win win.
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No worries. I had a coworker who thought he might buy it at tax time, but alas no go. Would be nice to have all the right tools to install gears. Sounds like a win win for you.

Fore Wheeler said:
Revolution gears ftw
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Same vendor(NAXJA supporting vendor) offers Revolution Gears: http://rwkhaussupply.com/revolution-gear-xj-gear-package.html

His main site is: http://rwkhaussupply.com/
 
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Fore Wheeler said:
Found a 06 lbz for $15, list. Clean extended cab. 200k miles.
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Just watch for the normal stuff; cab corners, rockers and above the rear wheels.

other then that the LBZ should be a good solid truck.
 
Ive only ever had 3.55s or 4.10s in any of the XJs, buggy has 5.38s of 40s now, does pretty good in 2wd going down the road but does need more power. I dont remember the 4.10s as it was over 10 years ago. Cheapest would be ether the 4.10s or 4.88s, would almost buy tbat zip in the forsale section if I just geared a front, maybe...
 
One of the maintenance guys tweaked his groin the other day trying to bust a bolt free using a breaker bar. So the plant manager brings this up to us in the maintenance meeting and tells us we can't use breaker bars any more, if we can't get a bolt free we have to use a torque wrench because they're better for braking free bolts...
 
REWSTER said:
One of the maintenance guys tweaked his groin the other day trying to bust a bolt free using a breaker bar. So the plant manager brings this up to us in the maintenance meeting and tells us we can't use breaker bars any more, if we can't get a bolt free we have to use a torque wrench because they're better for braking free bolts...
Click to expand...

So, can you add a piece of pipe to said torque wrench for more leverage? Or is that a ball buster too?
 
BRIANHO13 said:
Was it a breaker bar with a pipe on it? Or a breaker bar built for the job?
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They didn't say. I use a 18" breaker bar with a pipe all the time, and every time I tell my boss to get me a bigger breaker bar. He just laughs it off.
 
Pre-registration for Winterfest ends tomorrow Feb 17th!

mac 'register early or pay more' gyvr
 
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