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I'm ready to burn it!

The rim/tire wobble in and out on only one side?

Try swapping the rear wheels/tires and see if the wobble stays on the same side or follows the tire and rim.
 
My rig is going through the same problem.

I swapped a newer 8.25 with 4.56 gears, it vibes at 63 mph and above.

No slop in the RE hack n tap, angles are perfect, and I swapped out the shaft, made no difference.

Maybe it's the 8.25.
 
Ok just an update here. Switched out my 6 deg shims for 4 deg. Pinion and driveshaft angles are better. Vibes are better too. Not 100% gone but better. I'm thinking now it my be the ds I've got in there. Vibes may have given cv some play. Lesson: just because you swap in an 8.25 to replace an 8.25 doesn't mean angles will be the same. I'll post more on the rest.
 
Explain?? I've had a little vibe problem too....aren't all HNT's the same as far as yoke bolting in???

Nope,most H-n-T's use a yoke that presses(fits tight on the yoke) on to the output shaft.The one IRO uses what was designed, "exactly" like a stock XJ(its meant to have about .0015"-.003" of clearance(slop) since its meant to "slide"(not bolted solid). Just more crap being put out there by guy's that really dont know about SYE's.
 
Nope,most H-n-T's use a yoke that presses(fits tight on the yoke) on to the output shaft.The one IRO uses what was designed, "exactly" like a stock XJ(its meant to have about .0015"-.003" of clearance(slop) since its meant to "slide"(not bolted solid). Just more crap being put out there by guy's that really dont know about SYE's.

Interesting....so, where can I get JUST a yoke to try??
 
Nope,most H-n-T's use a yoke that presses(fits tight on the yoke) on to the output shaft.The one IRO uses what was designed, "exactly" like a stock XJ(its meant to have about .0015"-.003" of clearance(slop) since its meant to "slide"(not bolted solid). Just more crap being put out there by guy's that really dont know about SYE's.
Ummm, it bolts onto the end. If it did not, it would be a Hack-n-something not a Hack-n-Tap. The tap part references drilling a hole in the end of the driveshaft and using a large washer and a bolt to retain it.

Yes, some of the yokes used have clearance to slide rather than pressing on... do I think a few thousandths of an inch is going to produce a significant amount of imbalance? No.
 
Ummm, it bolts onto the end. If it did not, it would be a Hack-n-something not a Hack-n-Tap. The tap part references drilling a hole in the end of the driveshaft and using a large washer and a bolt to retain it.

Yes, some of the yokes used have clearance to slide rather than pressing on... do I think a few thousandths of an inch is going to produce a significant amount of imbalance? No.

My experiance says yes.I tried the equivalent to what IRO sells now 10 yrs ago(when my 2000 was brand new).Got all the same bad results your talking about now.Switched to a JB kit and its been perfect ever since
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Thanks for all the help here folks. I just picked up a T case with an AA SYE. so i'm getting rid of the HnT. Also had a rear brake dragging. Adjusted it and almost fixed all the vibes. Hoping the SYE will correct the rest.
 
Ok so I swapped out my IRO HnT for a real SYE today and vibes seem to be gone. thank again for all the input.
 
I still have vibes a little. Have to recheck pinion and DS angles again. When i went from 4.5 to about 6" and did axle swap is when i started having troubles with vibes. I got a great deal on a whole t case with AA SYE is why i switched. $100 couldn't pass it up.
 
damn, that is a killer deal! Can't even put together a hack-n-tap for that much now, even scrounging in the junkyard, and that is without the transfer case.
 
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