NSW Sparky
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Minnesota
How would I go about fixing this its about an 1" by 1" hole. Would a fiberglass filler work or is the hole to big. How about some sort of putty? I cant get to the backside it is totally enclosed.
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how to fix a hole? (pics)
- Thread starter NSW Sparky
- Start date
NSW Sparky
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Minnesota
thats not rilly an option 1. I don't have a welder 2. Its on a contour and I think would be difficult to get right.
Does anyone know how big of a hole fiberglass body filler can patch successful.
I found an article about using aluminum foil tape as backer then using the glass filler over the top that.
Does anyone know how big of a hole fiberglass body filler can patch successful.
I found an article about using aluminum foil tape as backer then using the glass filler over the top that.
You really need to weld a patch in or glue one in with structural adhesive. By the time you cut out the rest of the rusted metal, that hole is gonna be twice that size. If you patch it with fiberglass or bondo, just remember how you did it, because you'll be doing it again very shortly!!!
1. Find a welder or someone that can weld it in for you 2. It doesn't have to be perfect....especially if you are wanting to bondo or glass it 3. A glass patch of that size would require EXTENSIVE glassing to make it somewhat strong...and even then it would be weak as hell. There is nothing under there to give it any support and aluminum foil tape isn't gonna be that great of a help. The center can be as thick as you want, but your edges are going to be thin, especially if you're trying to follow the contours of the roof, thus making your whole patch weak. I do a fair amount of glassing at work and it's not the best option for something like what you're trying to do.
- Location
- Wasatch Range
Bigger question, did you identify the source of the water leak that caused this? I'm guessing it's behind the window seal. My 2000 has a little bubble at the drip rail that i wanna fix asap......knowing what the longterm effect is.
You don't need a welder to patch that!!! Go down to your local paint and body supply house and buy some panel bond. Then if you are worried about matching the curve. Go to a junk yard cut that piece and then some out. Take it home cut what you need out of your roof then cut the patch a little bigger and bond it in. Then smooth and make pretty.
If you want to do it right and make it last, find an xj in a junk yard, cut this square out of your roof, match it on the donor, spend a few minutes tack welding it (or a buddy a few beers welding it), sand and paint. I think that you're scared to weld onto your roof. Its not that hard and I'm sure a there's a local Jeep club that has someone who can weld. The other style patches aren't your best choices if you want this to last.
YELLAHEEP
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Littleton, Colorado
Wow, that's a nasty problem.
I dunno, but if it rusted that bad in such an odd location, you should probably do a thorough inspection of your entire XJ. It just might be time to retire the 'ol girl in favor of a less rusty one that maybe needs mechanical parts you could take from your current rig. I'd pay particular attention when looking at the rear spring mounts - both front and rear. Look up to where they spot weld to the floor of the XJ next to the frame rails. Look at the seams that run across the floor - especially where the cat and muffler are.
From your pic, you're gonna need to remove the windshield to get that patch done solidly. You gotta get to the windshield channel under that rubber trim..... but you might not like what you see after removing the windshield either.
I can see more bubbling right where the pillar meets the rain gutter.... I think the problem is much bigger than the hole you've already got.
I dunno, but if it rusted that bad in such an odd location, you should probably do a thorough inspection of your entire XJ. It just might be time to retire the 'ol girl in favor of a less rusty one that maybe needs mechanical parts you could take from your current rig. I'd pay particular attention when looking at the rear spring mounts - both front and rear. Look up to where they spot weld to the floor of the XJ next to the frame rails. Look at the seams that run across the floor - especially where the cat and muffler are.
From your pic, you're gonna need to remove the windshield to get that patch done solidly. You gotta get to the windshield channel under that rubber trim..... but you might not like what you see after removing the windshield either.
I can see more bubbling right where the pillar meets the rain gutter.... I think the problem is much bigger than the hole you've already got.
NSW Sparky
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Minnesota
actually its a pretty common problem around here there are about 10 cherokees in our club and most of them older than about 5yrs old have some sort of rust in that spot. the rest of the vehicle is in perfect condition (except for a few dents of corse) and a rusty floor pan. Its a 96.
I dont need it to be perfect its a wheeler I just want the rust to stop.
thanks for the input guys I will weigh my options some more.
how many people have rust in that spot who reads this post.
I dont need it to be perfect its a wheeler I just want the rust to stop.
thanks for the input guys I will weigh my options some more.
how many people have rust in that spot who reads this post.
NSW Sparky
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Minnesota
I know this is not what any of you sugested but I am cheap and it is just a wheeler
I filed down the rusty edges then painted it with 2 thick coats of por 15. While it was still tacky a mixed up like half a quart can of fiberglass filler, it took it all to fill the hole. I then let it dry a day sanded it down, then coated it again with por15. While that was still tacky I put down a layer of regular bondo, let it sit a day, sanded it down agan and put another layer of regular bondo, sanded it down then coated it with primer. That is where I sit today. I will use some glazing compound to fill the little imperfections prime it a couple more times then put on a couple coats of paint.
this is after the glass application kinda crazy with the application
this is where I stand now.
I filed down the rusty edges then painted it with 2 thick coats of por 15. While it was still tacky a mixed up like half a quart can of fiberglass filler, it took it all to fill the hole. I then let it dry a day sanded it down, then coated it again with por15. While that was still tacky I put down a layer of regular bondo, let it sit a day, sanded it down agan and put another layer of regular bondo, sanded it down then coated it with primer. That is where I sit today. I will use some glazing compound to fill the little imperfections prime it a couple more times then put on a couple coats of paint.
this is after the glass application kinda crazy with the application
this is where I stand now.
- Location
- Torrance, CA
You know...
I've never understood why people go through all the trouble to put up a post asking a question when they've already convined themselves how they want to do it and won't take no for an answer no matter how many people tell them it's not the best way of doing things.
Sigh....
I've never understood why people go through all the trouble to put up a post asking a question when they've already convined themselves how they want to do it and won't take no for an answer no matter how many people tell them it's not the best way of doing things.
Sigh....
- Location
- Thornton, CO
GSequoia said:
I know right. Don't come crying when that doesn't last. Cause you'll get no sympathy from any of us.
camarors8992
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Liverpool, New York
sweet, nothing like a problem that has been half assed.
It's not that we're trying to be asses, but think of it this way. Metal expands at a different rate than your bondo and other assorted crap you've got in your patch, right? Ok, so you've got your patch loosly (VERY loosly at that) attached to the metal because you had to patch from the outside in so that it looked alright cosmetically and in doing so you sanded down all the contact area between the patch and the metal, causing your patch to really not repair the spot, but more just fill the hole that was rusted away. Anyways, the metal heats up, expands, the patch doesn't, it begins to crack around the hole that was there, do that a few dozen times, the patch is now loose in the hole, cracked, and now letting water in AROUND your hole, rusting away the rest of your roof without you knowing until some time later you bump your head and your roof falls in on you. That's worst case. Best case is that in two days, your patch fails, starts rattling around up there, you take a look and realize that welding would have been a better choice and in a week you've fixed it right saving the rest of your roof from rust. Anyhow, good luck with your patch. It looks good if you had been repairing a dent.........but it wasn't a dent....it was a HOLE.
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NSW Sparky
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Minnesota
first off quit bieng so dang stand off ish its not that big of deal. this is costing me less than $20, my free time is free. I weighed the consiquencies of all options good and bad. At this time I dont want to drop a couple hundred on getting it fixed by a body person, I dont know anyone with a plasma and a welder that would do it for next to nothing. I can always get it fixed if this does not work. who knows maybe It will hold I posted on another forum and got totally diffrent answers.
I will let you know in a couple months if it held or not.
I will let you know in a couple months if it held or not.
Its actually contacting alot of the metal I didn't do the tape thing I packed it full
Rocketman
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Bolingbrook, IL
Actually there are many composites and adhesives that could be used and the expansion/contraction rates wouldn't matter. Many dissimilar metals and materials are held together by adhesives in aerospace applications and the stresses they encounter are far greater than any you could subject your Jeep to.
High tech can be an answer. Welding is an older technology and not always the ONLY answer.
Bondo may not have been the best, or most permanent solution for the guy but as he stated, it was cheap. If it lasts a couple years and he has to do it again, so what? He spends $20 more bucks and some hours of his time.
If we all did everything "the right way" we'd all have Currie axles with OX lockers and strokers, hydro assist steering and Nitto tires. Oh... you don't have that much money?? Neither does he.
High tech can be an answer. Welding is an older technology and not always the ONLY answer.
Bondo may not have been the best, or most permanent solution for the guy but as he stated, it was cheap. If it lasts a couple years and he has to do it again, so what? He spends $20 more bucks and some hours of his time.
If we all did everything "the right way" we'd all have Currie axles with OX lockers and strokers, hydro assist steering and Nitto tires. Oh... you don't have that much money?? Neither does he.
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