lane hog
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Tucson, AZ
OK... it's an overheating problem, which I know I'll get abused for because there are a gazillion threads on overheating... But I'm not asking if the radiator is the problem. I'm assuming it is... !!!1
1) Bought a 2000 with the 4.0 A/T, and after driving it 20 miles from the dealer (about 25 minutes of runtime) running at 210F, I hear the "Check Gauges" chime and notice the water temp sitting at about 240F. Get parked, idle down for a few minutes, and the temp drops back to 210F. Tried to turn on the heat, but get nothing but cold air with the engine running.
2) Return it to the dealership (15 day warranty on powertrain), who replaces the water pump (presumably why the heat wasn't working...). Take it out on the interstate for a speed test, and the temps stay at about 215F including 10 minutes at 40-45, 10 minutes at 65, and 10 minutes at 50. Then I get the chime again, and the temp jumps to 240F again. Put the heat on, and about 60-90 seconds later, the temp jumps back down to 215F. Not gradual at all -- it just dropped immediately.
3) Five minutes later, still going about 45, same thing happens, turn the heat back on, and it drops back down again. Except now the "Check Engine" light is on and staying on.
After about 25 minutes of cool down, I still hear bubbling inside the top hose, and the overflow bottle is just about full. After an hour of cool-down, the overflow bottle is half full again...
Having read the other overheating threads, I know I have a lower hose without a spring, and this is happening so randomly that I haven't been able to see if it is collapsing or not (my first concern has been to get the temps down, and it has yet to do this in the driveway....). So, it has to be replaced, and I have to find a spring and an OEM thermostat. Those are quick and relatively cheap fixes compared to the water pump (which was on the dealer's dime, fortunately)...
But I'm pretty convinced that the radiator will ultimately be the culprit based on what I've read. This thing sat for several months without being run, and based on the water pump failure, I'm guessing the radiator is pretty well corroded if not partially blocked, so RadiatorBarn has the 3-tube available for $165.
Now the question....... I'm somewhat mechanically inclined, and have replaced my fair share of hoses and belts, but I've never done a radiator.
Is this a one hour project? A three hour project? Or should I just bring it to a radiator shop and let them deal with it?
Thanks in advance...
1) Bought a 2000 with the 4.0 A/T, and after driving it 20 miles from the dealer (about 25 minutes of runtime) running at 210F, I hear the "Check Gauges" chime and notice the water temp sitting at about 240F. Get parked, idle down for a few minutes, and the temp drops back to 210F. Tried to turn on the heat, but get nothing but cold air with the engine running.
2) Return it to the dealership (15 day warranty on powertrain), who replaces the water pump (presumably why the heat wasn't working...). Take it out on the interstate for a speed test, and the temps stay at about 215F including 10 minutes at 40-45, 10 minutes at 65, and 10 minutes at 50. Then I get the chime again, and the temp jumps to 240F again. Put the heat on, and about 60-90 seconds later, the temp jumps back down to 215F. Not gradual at all -- it just dropped immediately.
3) Five minutes later, still going about 45, same thing happens, turn the heat back on, and it drops back down again. Except now the "Check Engine" light is on and staying on.
After about 25 minutes of cool down, I still hear bubbling inside the top hose, and the overflow bottle is just about full. After an hour of cool-down, the overflow bottle is half full again...
Having read the other overheating threads, I know I have a lower hose without a spring, and this is happening so randomly that I haven't been able to see if it is collapsing or not (my first concern has been to get the temps down, and it has yet to do this in the driveway....). So, it has to be replaced, and I have to find a spring and an OEM thermostat. Those are quick and relatively cheap fixes compared to the water pump (which was on the dealer's dime, fortunately)...
But I'm pretty convinced that the radiator will ultimately be the culprit based on what I've read. This thing sat for several months without being run, and based on the water pump failure, I'm guessing the radiator is pretty well corroded if not partially blocked, so RadiatorBarn has the 3-tube available for $165.
Now the question....... I'm somewhat mechanically inclined, and have replaced my fair share of hoses and belts, but I've never done a radiator.
Is this a one hour project? A three hour project? Or should I just bring it to a radiator shop and let them deal with it?
Thanks in advance...